Help!!

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#1
Hey everyone. So, I finally got my car back after 3.5 yrs. of sitting (don't ask, long story, not happy about it :shifty:). Finally got the trans rebuilt and got a call from my shop saying its done...with one minor problem. When the car is cold, it runs fine. But, when it warms up, it has a miss on one cylinder, sometimes two. Mind you, this is all what is told to me, no experience just yet. My initial thoughts are to change the plus and replace the coil pack, as the car has been sitting a long time with no real love. Anything else I should be considering? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks!!
 

626gn

Well-Known Member
#2
Plugs and coil pack would be a good place to start but I would replace the module as well while you're at it, unless you have a way to test them individually.
 

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#3
Thanks for the reply!! Good to know I'm in the right direction. So, I did replace the ignition module a couple years before sending it out and it sat. Could the sitting have done it in anyway?
 

626gn

Well-Known Member
#4
Heat is what usually kills that particular component. But after sitting for that long who knows? Even if by chance your coil pack and module turns out to still be good, it's really one of those parts every Turbo Buick owner should have a known good spare of. Comes in handy and saves time when troubleshooting. A bad module can take out a perfectly good coil pack. That's why you should change both if you don't have a way to test them first.
 

NorCalTurbos

Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
#5
Do you have a scan tool? What chip? What injectors? How old are they? Is the maf working. Also if the car has been sitting that long I would check the all the wiring, rodents tend to make motels out of sitting vehicles :beaver:
 

Jerryl

Tall Chinese Guy
#6
All great feedback. Could be a simpIe spark plug and wouldn't rule out a stuck injector(s), fuel pump, or a blown hg due to a shop teenager joy ride.

Don't speculate like I just did however.
Inspect and get data or you will drive yourself bananas. Lol

Good luck.
 

dank GN

BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
#7
Hey everyone. So, I finally got my car back after 3.5 yrs. of sitting (don't ask, long story, not happy about it :shifty:). Finally got the trans rebuilt and got a call from my shop saying its done...with one minor problem. When the car is cold, it runs fine. But, when it warms up, it has a miss on one cylinder, sometimes two. Mind you, this is all what is told to me, no experience just yet. My initial thoughts are to change the plus and replace the coil pack, as the car has been sitting a long time with no real love. Anything else I should be considering? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks!!
Double check your grounds on the back of the head when the head heats up the it expands so the bolt could be just loose enough to drive you crazy
 
#8
Along with the above mentioned things.
Fresh gas, dry gas, injector cleaner, check all vac hoses for dry rot/cracking ,do a search on spring cleaning, 3.5 years is a long sleep.
 

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#9
Thanks guys. So, the good news is the gas is fresh and the pump and sender are new. Chip is stock, injectors are green-stripes from Kirban (30 lb. I believe) installed shortly before the ignition module. Unfortunately, no scan tool yet. :-/ Maybe that needs to be my next purchase. I did get some new gauges (fuel pressure and boost/vacuum), so those will be helpful. I'll start simple with the plugs and fluids, check the ground on the head and go from there. So far next would be ignition coil and module, right? Anything I should be thinking about? Cam sensor?
 

NorCalTurbos

Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
#10
Thanks guys. So, the good news is the gas is fresh and the pump and sender are new. Chip is stock, injectors are green-stripes from Kirban (30 lb. I believe) installed shortly before the ignition module. Unfortunately, no scan tool yet. :-/ Maybe that needs to be my next purchase. I did get some new gauges (fuel pressure and boost/vacuum), so those will be helpful. I'll start simple with the plugs and fluids, check the ground on the head and go from there. So far next would be ignition coil and module, right? Anything I should be thinking about? Cam sensor?
Get a scan tool asap before you throw a bunch of parts at the car and it's something simple. You definitely need a chip for those injectors, contact Eric at Turbotweak. Do the spring cleaning. Post pics, and updates, many times when we figure out the problem we never post the solutions. Good luck
 

dank GN

BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
#11
okay here you go instead of guessing what you think is wrong and throwing money at it read up . I worked the late night shifts at my old gig and I printed everything I could on these cars and have learned a tremendous amount information that I'm sure has saved me north of a thousand dollars

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
 

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#13
Thanks guys. So, the SES light hasn't kicked on, so I'm not sure if there will be any codes. Correct me if I'm wrong though please.

NorCalTurbos, why would I need a chip for the injectors? These are pretty much stock replacement injectors (29.xx lb/hr vs. 30 lb/hr). Just looking for some insight here.

Good news is new plugs arrived today, so I'll be doing some basics pretty soon.

Now, about the ScanMaster...

I was looking at Full Throttle just now and was ready to pick up this:

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/tu...buick-scanmaster-scan-tool-grandnational.html

But, then, I noticed this:

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/tu...2-1-16-gauge-scan-tool-1986-87-gn-t-type.html

Ooooooooo!!! :woot::woot: Now, I do have one of these ready to go in:

http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=811

Currently, I've got it loaded with a knock gauge from Caspers:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...oduct/product&product_id=3&search=knock+gauge

And fuel pressure and vacuum/boost gauges from Speed Hut. So, my question is (sorry for the long build-up), is the knock gauge telling me the same thing the ScanMaster is? Is there any difference (speed, accuracy, etc.) between the 2? Thanks as always!!
 

NorCalTurbos

Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
#14
Thanks guys. So, the SES light hasn't kicked on, so I'm not sure if there will be any codes. Correct me if I'm wrong though please.

NorCalTurbos, why would I need a chip for the injectors? These are pretty much stock replacement injectors (29.xx lb/hr vs. 30 lb/hr). Just looking for some insight here.

Good news is new plugs arrived today, so I'll be doing some basics pretty soon.

Now, about the ScanMaster...

I was looking at Full Throttle just now and was ready to pick up this:

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/tu...buick-scanmaster-scan-tool-grandnational.html

But, then, I noticed this:

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/tu...2-1-16-gauge-scan-tool-1986-87-gn-t-type.html

Ooooooooo!!! :woot::woot: Now, I do have one of these ready to go in:

http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=811

Currently, I've got it loaded with a knock gauge from Caspers:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...oduct/product&product_id=3&search=knock+gauge

And fuel pressure and vacuum/boost gauges from Speed Hut. So, my question is (sorry for the long build-up), is the knock gauge telling me the same thing the ScanMaster is? Is there any difference (speed, accuracy, etc.) between the 2? Thanks as always!!
KR=blown head gaskets if you can afford it get the separate gauge, you should keep as close of an eye and ear on KR
 

NorCalTurbos

Slowing down to SPEED UP!!!
#15
KR=blown head gaskets if you can afford it get the separate gauge, you should keep as close of an eye and ear on KR
Also as for the chip I suggested it because 1. Your post said that you believe that the injectors are 30# if you get with Eric AKA The turbo tweak guy he can tell you exactly what injectors you have by the part # on them.
2. You will be amazed by the tuning abilities you gain with one of his chips.
3. You won't regret it
 

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#17
Sorry for the delay. Been a bit busy with work and family.

In any case, here's the injectors that the car is running:

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/221/PERFORMANCE+FUEL+INJECTORS+SET+(6)+#1544.html

While I do want to get a chip for the car from TurboTweak, pretty sure that's not needed to clean up the idle as it ran with these injectors for about a year or so with no problem. Lets keep looking. Now, I did fire the car up the other night and finally got a code (code 45). Pulled one of the plugs and it is really black. Definitely running rich. Since installing the injectors, I did have the pump upgraded using this:

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=FPA-015&eq=

Also picked up a hotwire harness that was supposed to be installed but wasn't (thanks again to the long story :banghead: ). In any case, the only thing that comes to mind that might be a problem regarding the pump would be the regulator not being able to handle it, but I'm not sure how much I believe that. It is a -237 unit and was put in just after the injectors. The O2 is a bit older, being almost a decade old now. I'm leaning toward that and new plugs first. I do have thoughts of the MAF as well, as that is about as old as the O2. Maybe even the plug wires, but those are a bit newer and are these:

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...igh-Performance+GREY+PLUG+WIRE+SET+#1531.html

Also, I did end up sending the knock gauge back for the ScanMaster G. Since the ScanMaster G defaults to the knock count, I feel that should work out pretty well. Just waiting on that to get here.

As always, any and all help is appreciated. Thanks everyone. And, Merry Christmas!!!!! :D:D
 

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#18
Quick update. Hooked up my fuel pressure test gauge and ran her for a little bit. Fuel pressure held steady around 39-40 PSI and spiked when I blipped the throttle. So, I know the pressure is good. Even better, when I shut the motor off, fuel pressure held strong at about 37 PSI for at least 15-20 min., even started rising. Sounds like the fuel system is in good shape, yes?
 

Steve87GN

Oh come on...its just a 6
#19
Ok, threw in some new plugs and a new O2. Car still threw the light but seemed to run a bit better. Old plugs were pretty black, obviously running rich. I do know the driver's side header is cracked (I can even hear it in the car). How likely is it that that is throwing the car off? I suspect fairly likely, but always welcome input. Thanks!