Help me with a stereo for my Pro-Touring project!

[dsapper]

I have a project log going on in General http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...987-pro-touring-grand-national-ground-up.html

I'm now at the point where I need to start thinking about the audio aspect of it as I'd like to wire it before the interior goes back together. I was hoping to find some advice/help on here.

So far I'm thinking of getting the Gbodyparts lower door panels for the midbass and maybe put a tweeter in the factory dash spot. Then in the rear put whatever I can back there (no tweeter just a 5 1/4" or something). I'm going to complete my trunk and have it boxed in and covered in leather. I'm looking to put a sub box in there with the amplifiers bolted to the back of it and have it trimmed out.

So the questions.

Any recommendations for speakers for the front/rear/sub?

What subs will fit in the back without to much hassle, 1 10", 2, 3?

Amp recommendations, one amp, two, three?

How is my speaker setup?

Any deck recommendations (I want sirius and pandora on there, but something simple and clean looking)

I'm very open to suggestions and looking for advice, not trying to get a high end system or have insane bass. Just a nice, clean, simple stereo for mainly rock and roll.

 

[dsapper]

nobody?

 

[696]

I'll throw my $.02 in since I'm installing mine as we speak. What music to you litsen to, and we'll go from there...I have some ideas.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

I put Focal 6.5 K2 Power separates in my vette and they rock! At least 2 10's in the trunk, one 10 isn't enough. I wouldn't run rear speakers.

 

[Kip]

I'll throw my $.02 in since I'm installing mine as we speak. What music to you litsen to, and we'll go from there...I have some ideas.

I usually listen to " the house band". Send your thoughts to me via email please.

Peace, Kip

 

[696]

Ok, I went with Infinity Kappa 6.5's in the doors, using G-Body lowers. Infinty Kappa 5.25's in the rear panels below the quarter windows, using G-Body inserts. Infinity Reference 3.5's in the dash, mounted below and bent the tabs. The Infinity Kappa 3.5's have a higher tweeter so I wasn't sure if they would clear the dash, even with mounting below and bending the tabs. I have a 12" Kicker CVR Dual VC 4 ohm run in series (2 ohm) and a Kicker ZX700.5 5 channel amp running everything with PLENTY of power to spare. I MIGHT add Infinity Kappa 6x9 3 ways in the rear tray...still tuning with the gains and crossovers. Infinity is a speaker I have wanted to try for years and I'm glad I did, Kappa is their top of the line and it shows!! I have heard nice things about Focal as well but don't know anyone that has used them or heard them. I ran the 6.5's on 1 channel, the 3.5's and 5.25's in series on another channel, then sub has it's own. It might need a bit more of rear "fill" from some 6x9's (run in series w/6.5's) due to the 5.25's being smaller and the 6.5's being right at your feet. You can hear the 3.5's and 5.25's but I think a 6.5 would work better than the 5.25's.
For your set up, a head unit of your choice, then shoot for I good quality brand of speakers (Infinity??) 3.5's in the dash, 6.5's in the doors, have someone modify the rear panels to fit 6.5's there as well, 6x9 3 ways in the rear tray and either a 10 or 12 Kicker CVR Dual VC (4ohm) and the Kicker ZX750 to run everything. Simply, clean and should sound awesome. Others may say buy separates and put the tweeter on the remote mirror area of the lower door panel so it hits you in the face for more clarity. I personally don't like having the "highs" overpower the "mids" that much but you might. I also like to have my treble and bass set for 0 and use the speakers to have the "natural" sound, nothing wrong with using the adjustments to get the high's or mid's to your preference but it's not for me. I am partical to Kicker subs, used them for years but like JL Audio as well. I have my 12 in a plain 12" off the self box and it THUMPS!!! I'm going to start on a custom box in a few weeks but if it's any indication of what it's going to sound like it should only get better. PLENTY of amps out there, again your choice. I heard to keep your sub amp seperate from your mid's and high's amp cause it could get "muddy" on both side when it was cranked up. Not true in this case. This is one of the cleanest sounds I have had. The internal crossovers work GREAT keeping the frequencies in check and the Infinity are clear as a bell. Even when the bass it hitting you can still hear the words to the song. Still a work in progress but the result have been great thus far. Anyway my $.02

 

[JYLP]

If I was to go for an all around play any kind of music and sound good and clean while keeping it simple, I'd replace the stock 5.25" speakers with a pair of alpine type r 5.25" and I would put 6x9's in the rear but you will have to make them fit so that they clear the trunk spring rods, so you may have to cut the factory holes into 6x9" hole and drop the 6x9's in from the top but that's if you get 6x9's with big magnets. I'd replace the stock 3.5's in the dash with powerbass 3.5's. I would have TWO type r 12's in the trunk and I would only use 2 amps to power it all.

Now if I wanted to go all out and not care about a stock look and not care about trunk space or weight, I would have 4x6's in the dash and at least 4 6.5's in each door nicely fiber glassed to look good and I would carpet over that so it still looks kinda stock, I would also add 8" woofer in the kick panel if it would fit but if not I would but whatever can fit there with a 1" silk dome tweeter, I would still go with 6x9's in the rear but I would go with 2 15's in the trunk, I'd have 2 amps to power the dash and doors, one amp to power the rear and another amp to power the subs and I'd have 3 batteries, 2 in the trunk and one under the hood. I would use a minimum of 2g power wire and 8g speaker wire. However, doing an install like this add about 500 pounds. Each sub would be about 75 pounds not including the box and the amps, the batteries and heavy power wire... But man would it sound good and be remembered for years to come.

I can tell you just about anything you could ever want to know about car audio, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

 

[dsapper]

Can you fit 12" or 10" flush against the rear seat in a box. I want to still have trunk space. I'm thinking at this point the 5.25" in the front and probably in the rear deck. Maybe tweeters or the 3.5" in the dash. Sticking with 2 amps.

 

[JYLP]

Yes but it depends on the sub and the box. You can fit 2 type r 12's facing up, right behind the rear seat above the rear axle and it will help the car get better traction off the line. But if you only want one sub, you can make or have a box made to fit perfectly like a show piece, fiber glass it and all that jazz. You'd have the sub facing the rear of the car then and you could have a ported box and tune it to whatever Hz you want. You don't have to go with alpine type r sub(s) if you don't want, there are lots of companies out there, FI audio, JL audio, kicker, DC audio, Sundown audio, Team Psi, Powerbass, Rockford, just to name a few, it's all a matter of what you're looking for. Not all subs are alike, one 12 may take a bigger or smaller box than another and thus you should look at box specs to see if the sub can use a box that can fit where you need it to go and still sound like you want. no way I would put 5.25's in the read deck when 6x9's can fit. The 5.25's don't put out enough mid bass. I wouldn't put tweeters in the dash, I'd go with a 3.5' because all the other speakers are going to have tweeters built in and adding more would over power the mid bass. I would tune the low pass to 100Hz, fronts to 125Hz and rears to 100Hz, so the 6x9's would play everything above 100Hz, the front will play everything above 125Hz because the 3.5's don't like much bass and the sub(s) would play everything below 100Hz. Tuning it like this ensures you don't miss a beat and hear every note. I wouldn't try to tune the system from the amps because you can only guess what frequency you're at unless you have a RTA (real time analyzer) or a Crossover Calibrator, thus I normally tune it from the radio. If you get a good radio, you should be able to tune the front, rear and sub outputs along with an EQ.