HELP dead throttle and no boost

vwturbo19

New Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2019
I pulled my car out the garage the other day since it was nice out and went for a short trip. The car wont take throttle past 1.5V, AF around 20-30 max, and L8 105-110. Those are the highest i can manage to get before the car falls flat on its face and pulls rpm back to idle. The turbo is spooling and the car is holding 37+ psi fuel pressure from idle up. You can drive the car but cant get it to really go no matter how you throttle it. No CEL. I've checked the coils, ground wires everywhere, pulled the ecu and connectors apart as well as chip to check for corosion, pulled crank sensor and tested, checked voltage to MAP with key on and return from map with key on. I ran extra grounds back to the battery just to see. If you hold the throttle when it falls on its face it will completely stall. Car does start right up and runs perfect other than that. Tried a new ignition module and tried another known good maf. Plugs show nothing abnormal. No misfires even when you punch it. It just cuts out. Could this be the translator box or the ecu?

scan master readings at hot idle
O2 0-700ish constantly bounces up and down as normal
AF 2
L8 29
Bat 13.8
INT 124-129
BL 136
CLT 165-170
ATS 71
R 825
TPS .42
IAC 23
CC 0-255
NAL 00
 
You said module was replaced but coil pack? How did you check the coil pack?
Will it rev to higher rpms in park?
Go through your gen 2 and double check your settings.
BLM is adding fuel.
Check for loose connections or torn hoses from MAF to turbo, turbo to IC and IC to uppipe/TB
 
I ohm'd the coils, 13.2-13.5K ohms on each one. It revs fine as long as you go slow. I forgot to mention i checked all boost/intake connections. I've got the fuel pressure set down because the chip was made for this set up and a 60MM turbo and it was really rich at the 45 with line off setting. I'll double check the trans settings in the am though.
 
back probe the TPS. The voltage should be smooth and not jump at anytime.

If it does, replace the TPS
 
What kinda vacuum is it pulling at idle? Is your cam or crank sensor loose ? Set properly? How do the spark plugs look?
 
I pulled my car out the garage the other day since it was nice out and went for a short trip. The car wont take throttle past 1.5V, AF around 20-30 max, and L8 105-110. Those are the highest i can manage to get before the car falls flat on its face and pulls rpm back to idle. The turbo is spooling and the car is holding 37+ psi fuel pressure from idle up. You can drive the car but cant get it to really go no matter how you throttle it. No CEL. I've checked the coils, ground wires everywhere, pulled the ecu and connectors apart as well as chip to check for corosion, pulled crank sensor and tested, checked voltage to MAP with key on and return from map with key on. I ran extra grounds back to the battery just to see. If you hold the throttle when it falls on its face it will completely stall. Car does start right up and runs perfect other than that. Tried a new ignition module and tried another known good maf. Plugs show nothing abnormal. No misfires even when you punch it. It just cuts out. Could this be the translator box or the ecu?

scan master readings at hot idle
O2 0-700ish constantly bounces up and down as normal
AF 2
L8 29
Bat 13.8
INT 124-129
BL 136
CLT 165-170
ATS 71
R 825
TPS .42
IAC 23
CC 0-255
NAL 00

sounds fuel related .. check fuel pump
 
Its pulling roughly 17 in of vacuum at idle. I honestly haven't checked the cam sensor. Crank sensor is set and tight. plugs have less thank 100 miles but are a dark brown/ black. Its a dry black dusty coating that rubs right off. no deposits.
 
turbo89, after i check the translator settings again ill check to see what my o2 volts are doing when it acts up. Should that tell me enough about the fuel system condition?
 
fuel filter, how old is it? When the pump was upgraded was a fuel resistant hose used to connect the pump to the hanger?
 
that wont tell you.. you need to make sure the pump can keep up 1:1 with boost ... you said it gets into boost .. make sure the pump can keep up
 
TexasT, I know its due a filter, time but less than 5K on it. The pump was put in 6+ yrs ago and 8K miles ago. I honestly cant remember how it was mounted. It is hot wired. what is this resists hose you speak of? a hose made for fuel injection? yes is so.

turbo89, it only builds 2 psi at most. I'll see if i can relocate the guage to see while im driving.
 
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TexasT, I know its due a filter, time but less than 5K on it. The pump was put in 6+ yrs ago and 8K miles ago. I honestly cant remember how it was mounted. It is hot wired. what is this resists hose you speak of? a hose made for fuel injection? yes is so.

turbo89, it only builds 2 psi at most. I'll see if i can relocate the guage to see while im driving.


that will tell you a lot .. I had a GN that pulled 38 psi at idle but as soon as the car got into boost the pump would fall on its face ...
put a new pump in it and right back to 100% ... it was doing exactly what you describe ..
anyway just check it .. its a quick easy check
 
Do a factory reset on the gen 2 translator and run back through the settings .
If I remember correctly, hold 2 left buttons then key on. Display should say “hold buttons to reset”. If you don’t see that message, turn key off then try holding the 2 right buttons then turning key on.
Continue to hold buttons until display says “all data reset!”
 
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I would definitely look into your fuel pressure rising 1:1. As stated just because it’s fine at idle doesn’t mean its acting as it should in boost so ether log fuel pressure or install a gauge and watch it as you get it into boost . Also I’ve had coil packs/ modules go out on me with symptoms as you are having. I’ve even have had brand new ones that where bunk . If you can swap out the coil pack and module with a known good one so you can eliminate your spark being the issue .Double check your grounds and fuseable links . The links have lived a shity life attached to your starter by your hot ass headers and I’ve seen a lot of strange issues caused by fuseable links grounding out .
 
while the hose might be rated for fuel injection some were not rated for submersion and the outer rubber falls off . Pump could have been a walbro that was part of the batch that ended up not working well. Might be time for a pump. Or at least dropping the tank after a check with a gauge on the windshield to see where the pressure is during attempted acceleration
 
I ohm'd the coils, 13.2-13.5K ohms on each one. It revs fine as long as you go slow. I forgot to mention i checked all boost/intake connections. I've got the fuel pressure set down because the chip was made for this set up and a 60MM turbo and it was really rich at the 45 with line off setting. I'll double check the trans settings in the am though.
Ohming coils is hit or miss at best. Not saying that's your problem, just saying you still can't rule it out. A known good spare module and coil pack is good to have in situations like this. As others have mentioned slap a fuel pressure gauge on the windshield and check for 1:1 rise.
 
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