Heads vs Cam

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Feb 15, 2009
Should I go with a roller cam set up or heads first? Obviously looking for whichever will get me the most power gains. Can only afford one or the other at the moment. Labor is not a factor. Thank you.
 
Heads and one of these.....does not have to be a roller cam, lots of us ran flat tappets at one time.
If broken in correctly and the right springs and good oil are used a nice little flat tappet hydrauilic
Like the comp cams 206/206 or the 212/212 can be done for an extra 250$

#63-234-4 = 206/206
#69-248-4 =212/212
 
If your gonna have someone do it, it's cheaper to do them both at the same time for sure.

Wait till you can save a few more bucks. Be patient. Do them together.
 
Should I go with a roller cam set up or heads first? Obviously looking for whichever will get me the most power gains...........

Obviously heads would be your most effective way to increase HP as you need air and fuel to make HP.

With a turbo and fuel injection, you can easily spray all the fuel required for your performance level, but you cannot get all the air needed if the heads are a restriction and do not flow well for your power level at reasonable boost.?

Other items like the intercooler and turbo can be restrictive, but at the end of the line the air must pass through an intake valve to make HP. :)

Put a set of well-ported alum heads in place of ported iron heads with a 206 cam and you will immediately see 100+ HP increase!

This is NOT an opinion, it is proven by a GN we just finished.
 
All good info for you, the heads and intake are where all the power comes from in any engine, as you MIGHT see 10 to 15 horsepower gain for the extra 1000.00 bucks your going to spend on that roller setup.A roller is a little more useful on a naturally aspirated engine because of the more aggressive ramps and lobe angles will allow you to fill the cylinder with a little more air before the intake valve closes but on a boosted engine not so much, if both cams are equal in specs.As nick said its all in the heads as they are the foundation where it all starts, the turbo and innercooler are all just add ons after motor is in and running.
 
Should I go with a roller cam set up or heads first? Obviously looking for whichever will get me the most power gains. Can only afford one or the other at the moment. Labor is not a factor. Thank you.
You must first upgrade the heads because the stock heads limit the amount of valve lift you can run.
 
neither,unless you want to run faster than 11's


This X 2 !!!

I would even go as far as saying don't bother with either until your running in the 10's .. no point !

My personal suggestion if you must tinker .. do a light clean up on the stock Irons as this is the best bang for the buck ... as mentioned by other posts flat tappet cams are still being used ALOT and running just as fast as the next guy with a roller cam ..

on my personal GN with a light clean up of the cylinder heads ( self ported) and a very mild flat tappet ( It's what I had laying around ) .. mid 10's at 130 are no issue .. many have gone much faster with similar setups .. and MANY have gone MUCH SLOWER with roller cams and ported ALum heads .. spend the money where you get the return !
 
on my personal GN with a light clean up of the cylinder heads ( self ported) and a very mild flat tappet ( It's what I had laying around ) .. mid 10's at 130 are no issue ..
Nice!saved yourself alot of coin doing it that way.there seems to be so many that think you need all the high $$ parts to run 10s,my first 10 sec combo had a stock cam:)
 
With ported heads, you will run faster easier. Not many have gone 10s on stock heads and cam. It takes high boost, which has a narrower margin of error. Stock heads and cam will take 27psi or more to run 10s, a good ported heads and cam combo can run high 10s at 18 to 20 psi. Heads will gain more than a cam.
 
Nice!saved yourself alot of coin doing it that way.there seems to be so many that think you need all the high $$ parts to run 10s,my first 10 sec combo had a stock cam:)


That's because there are "TUNERS" and parts sellers .. big difference !

I'm amazed that a guy will drop $3K on a set of heads / cam and then F@#$ the tune up and get a 11 second car ...

$3K on parts and too cheap to spend $3-400 on a tune that will get him further then the $3K he just spent ... proof that it isn't the parts that make em go fast !
 
That's because there are "TUNERS" and parts sellers .. big difference !
I get that completely.I'm still amazed that guys don't realize how fast an iron headed car can go with the right tune and supporting mods
 
I'm amazed that a guy will drop $3K on a set of heads / cam and then F@#$ the tune up and get a 11 second car ...

$3K on parts and too cheap to spend $3-400 on a tune that will get him further then the $3K he just spent ... proof that it isn't the parts that make em go fast !
i am SO guilty of this exact thing.
 
i am SO guilty of this exact thing.

But at least you recognize this now .. that's the first step to recovery :)

All too common with these cars as they just are so NOT like a typical Small Block .. treat them like one and you will get lack luster results .. take the time to understand them and reap the rewards of what these cars are capable of.

Personally I just love the way a Iron headed ... mild flat tappet car can run ... without all the drama associated with all the aftermarket junk that's out there... People just like to complicate things I guess.
 
I've had my car since 2009. It ran 8.70 in the 1/8th bone stock with drag radials. Put a 6262, chip, pump, inj, hot wire, Adj fp Reg on it. Ran 8.70 again. But picked up 6mph. Talk about lag and a lesson learned. Since then have installed a PTC converter , 3 inch exhaust, Duttneck neck IC, SD2, Alky and other smalls. Finally getting a track again opening up local. Car is tuned really well currently so I'm hoping to be mid to lower 7s? Either way I love it and have learned a lot. Some the hard way.
 
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Generally speaking, I don't believe any newbie or basic garage hot-rodder should push any combination to it's limit. This includes head and cam combos. Especially if they want to spend more time driving their car then tuning it and fixing it. And even more so if they don't have the time to go to the track 20 times per year to agonize over AF, VE, boost, timing, alky, traction........

For those of you who have pushed things to the limits, thank you!

But most would prefer to know how fast you have gone so they understand when enough is enough. How can anyone argue that going 10's on a factory cam and heads is easy and has as safe margin for era as using a good set of ported heads and a nice roller?

It's just not so. Any way you want to cut it, it's just not so.
 
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