HEADERS pros and cons for MY application

TIMINATOR

Active Member
OK. On the horns of a dilemma. I'm getting ready to install my new motor and trans. Stock manifolds are ugly, repaired, but I think they will be OK. I was thinking about having them coated or installing headers.
Street car, may never see the track, NOT doing a roll bar! Probably frame reinforcements. Fun street and mountain cruiser. Definitly doing a bunch of rear suspension mods to make it hook. Also lowered 2".
Here's the combo:
+.020 stock block, 5 step plateau honed, BHJ decked, line bored, billet caps, 4340 stock stroke crank, internally balanced (including flex plate, balancer, and pulley), Wiseco custom race pistons(8.7 comp), fully ported stock iron heads, polished and unshrouded chambers, filled x-overs, plugged a.i.r ports, fully ported intake, 70 mm t body, Precision upper, rjc plate, Comp custom 214/214 .568/.568 roller cam, roller rockers, all of the oiling mods, custom cometic h.g.s to accommodate the unshrouding,
A.R.P. studs, big pan, windage tray, rjc 3" down pipe, dual 3" exhaust, big slic, 340 pump hotwired, billet regulator, built Art Carr trans and 2500 stall (remember it's a street car, and I'm gonna drive it all over) I may do a 50 shot of NOS to help the launch if required, gauges, logger, etc. Alky injection too. Probably keep the boost under 20 or so.
Precision 62/62 turbo.
Now the question! Headers or not? I have heard they slow the spool, but help on top. True or not? What brand? Plusses and minuses for each brand/setup please!
Again, a fun street car, not a track car!
I hope it can run 10 somethings. I have a performance timer too.
Comments?
TIMINATOR
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
Although I value all of your opinions, the biggest question, and what I will base my decision on is: will headers slow the spool time, or change the convertor stall? Has anyone got before and after comparisons of stall and spool?
I have a lift. Changing the convertor is easy for me...
Turbo T guy, you have headers.....
I am on a quest for knowlege.....
TIMINATOR
 
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TIMINATOR

Active Member
1KWIK6
I gave all of that info to the trans guy. I bought what he recommended. EVERYONE says that about the convertor! Thats why I am asking for more info before I do anything else!
TIMINATOR
 

1KWIKSIX

Well-Known Member
Stay away from Hooker Headers as they will kill your spool up.
Me, I’ve got TA race headers & 3” THDP , ATR 2.5” exhaust with pit Bull mufflers & haven’t noticed any I’ll effects personally
 

TType85

Well-Known Member
IMO if you go with a stock style replacement header (TA, Cruz, etc) you won't see a spool-up difference. I don't know about the race style (ATR style, TA, Cruz) but I do know the old Hookers were bad for spool-up.
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Yes, I have TA Stainless V2010CH-SS, a 64/66 and 3000 stall converter. I also have TA aluminum heads and a roller valve train. TA 3" DP and 3" stainless steel exhaust.

Mine spools extremely fast and pulls until I let out of it. Runs low 10's all day long.

Can't ask for much more.
 

mblum

Active Member
I have the TA replacement headers on my car. I was going to re-use the stock units when I was going through the engine, but once I realized that there were about 6 layers of chicken shit welds under the heat shields and numerous cracks I just threw them in a box. Trying to weld over unknown welds of unknown filler wasn't something I felt like messing with.

The TA stock replacement units (the ones Grumpy listed above) are not that much different than the stock units. TA does sell a race version that are quite different than the stock replacement design. When setting them side by side to the stock I could see some minor differences in primary routing to improve flow but very close in design to the stock headers. I do not have a before and after turbo spool comparisons but being they are so close in design to stock I can't imagine they will cause any delay over stock.

The only area I had issues leaking was the slip joint at the middle of the cross over. There isn't much room in there for a band clamp but one will fit. Even with a band clamp I still had a leak when running the smoke machine. I ended up just welding that joint and have had zero issues since.

Also my stock steering shaft would hit on a drivers side primary. I replaced the shaft with one of the units that Kirban's sells and how have a good 1/2" of clearance.

If I had to do it again I would have had the headers, crossover and down pipe coated. I was too impatient at that point in time so I didn't.
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Dual from GN1.
 

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V6sleeper

Well-Known Member
TA headers all the way, only reason not to keep the stock ones is if your tired of repairing them, Call Husek for a converter no need for a 50 shot a 6262 will spool like lightning, and keep the boost around 25... under 20 is lower for the rest of your combo
 

TType85

Well-Known Member
Ported stockers have been into the 9's.
drivers side stockers also crack often. I don't think you will gain HP going to any of the stock style replacements but they do look a lot nicer. Sometimes the kool guy parts are worth it. I wanted to go 4-bolt and external wastegate so aftermarket headers were an easy way to go.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
OK. On the horns of a dilemma. I'm getting ready to install my new motor and trans. Stock manifolds are ugly, repaired, but I think they will be OK. I was thinking about having them coated or installing headers.
Street car, may never see the track, NOT doing a roll bar! Probably frame reinforcements. Fun street and mountain cruiser. Definitly doing a bunch of rear suspension mods to make it hook. Also lowered 2".
Here's the combo:
+.020 stock block, 5 step plateau honed, BHJ decked, line bored, billet caps, 4340 stock stroke crank, internally balanced (including flex plate, balancer, and pulley), Wiseco custom race pistons(8.7 comp), fully ported stock iron heads, polished and unshrouded chambers, filled x-overs, plugged a.i.r ports, fully ported intake, 70 mm t body, Precision upper, rjc plate, Comp custom 214/214 .568/.568 roller cam, roller rockers, all of the oiling mods, custom cometic h.g.s to accommodate the unshrouding,
A.R.P. studs, big pan, windage tray, rjc 3" down pipe, dual 3" exhaust, big slic, 340 pump hotwired, billet regulator, built Art Carr trans and 2500 stall (remember it's a street car, and I'm gonna drive it all over) I may do a 50 shot of NOS to help the launch if required, gauges, logger, etc. Alky injection too. Probably keep the boost under 20 or so.
Precision 62/62 turbo.
Now the question! Headers or not? I have heard they slow the spool, but help on top. True or not? What brand? Plusses and minuses for each brand/setup please!
Again, a fun street car, not a track car!
I hope it can run 10 somethings. I have a performance timer too.
Comments?
TIMINATOR
You can mill your stock flanges and have the stock headers ceramic coated.
They look real good and on one of the cars I tune that goes mid to low 9s.
I'm not going to comment on the rest of your post in regards to the combination and how you plan to go fast making the car hook with a stock spindle 2 inch drop full weight with only paying attention to the rear.
You can pm me if you would like help or chat about it.
 

Pronto

Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
With your low compression and questionable stock headers I would go with Grumpy's recommendation of TA stock style headers. I would also go with a better converter. Low compression and low stall will not spool a 62/62 as well as other combinations.
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
drivers side stockers also crack often. I don't think you will gain HP going to any of the stock style replacements but they do look a lot nicer. Sometimes the kool guy parts are worth it. I wanted to go 4-bolt and external wastegate so aftermarket headers were an easy way to go.
Had mine welded by a pro. 17 years racing most weekends...never cracked again
 

TType85

Well-Known Member
Had mine welded by a pro. 17 years racing most weekends...never cracked again
Had one car that it cracked multiple times, this car it was fixed and stayed that way. Both were welded by the same guy. I agree with you the stockers are good enough; changing them out if you are staying 3-bolt is not going to make you faster. The replacements are pretty though.
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
1KWIK6
I gave all of that info to the trans guy. I bought what he recommended. EVERYONE says that about the convertor! Thats why I am asking for more info before I do anything else!
TIMINATOR
AC 16930...and it was tight...about 2700 with the 6262JB. On Erics default settings I could get out and run faster. This is with 6 degrees of low gear timing added and the low gear 02's dropped to 770's. I stage last...and watch how fast it spools...and on my way to another 7 flat at 100 MPH pass...on only 23 PSI...on stock junk. Check the reaction time. I don't take prisoners.

 
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