Has anyone repaired a Red's Volt Booster?

[TURBOPOWERED68]

My Brand new volt booster(Purchased a long time ago) does not work.
I even un pluged the boost line and connected it to a hand pump and got the pressure up to 25psi and not nothing.
Yes the car was running.
any sugestions?

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Probably a bad boost sensing switch. I’m not sure what that thing was, I thought it was a Hobbs switch but it was more like a oil pressure switch when I took one apart many years ago. I used a Casper’s volt booster after that. It has solid state modern tech in it instead of low tech. If you need a volt booster I would recommend the Casper’s unit or something like the KB boost a pump. If you want to stick with what you have cut the shrink wrap off the end of the oil pressure switch and see if it’s a bad switch or broken wire. I’m guessing bad switch. You can look for a part number on it but he normally removed the part numbers. A 8-10 psi oil pressure switch would probably fix it but fuel pressure at high boost is too important to rely on something like that in my opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pacecarta]

reds VB is encased in epoxy , youll destroy it getting to the switch

Scott im with you on the not using a VB to meet fuel demand, better to make sure you have enough pump at 12v in case alternator fails during a hard run , but hes not after the fuel but the increased voltage for the oe ignition running e85

 

[BobbyBuick]

its an oil pressure switch

 

[ScottHeidinger]

I’ve had good luck with Casper’s VB. I recently switched to a 250 amp alternator and got rid of the VB. The alternator puts out 14.5 volts constantly. My alternator was bad so I had to buy one. I normally buy the ones that auto parts stores sell with lifetime warranty but since I have a lot of things that I’ve added (dual fans, trans cooler fan, audio equipment, fuel pumps that draw more current and I’m often in traffic with the ac on high) I figured it would be a good idea to try one capable of 120 amps at idle. My ac blows harder in traffic, car runs cooler and I had to turn my Base fuel pressure down but I think the alternator was on its way out and I just didn’t realize it until it was a obvious issue and a stock alternator may have worked just as well. My bad alternator never shorted out the diode to turn on the idiot light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jerryl]

If you jump the connectors at the pressure switch, the system should be active. If that works, install a relay and control activation via XFI aux output.

Since the Dr. is tuning, have him guide you on that.

 

[salvageV6]

https://turbobuick.com/threads/look...le-pump-fuel-pumps-15psi.359852/#post-2870273

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

If you jump the connectors at the pressure switch, the system should be active. If that works, install a relay and control activation via XFI aux output.

Since the Dr. is tuning, have him guide you on that.

I was going to explore that option.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

reds VB is encased in epoxy , youll destroy it getting to the switch

Scott im with you on the not using a VB to meet fuel demand, better to make sure you have enough pump at 12v in case alternator fails during a hard run , but hes not after the fuel but the increased voltage for the oe ignition running e85

How can we make one and activate it by the XFI?

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Electronic Experts- Volt booster - DIY
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...erts--Volt-booster---DIY.443810/&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Not sure if the link works but if you search with diy volt booster you should be able to find it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ScottHeidinger]

If you jump the connectors at the pressure switch, the system should be active. If that works, install a relay and control activation via XFI aux output.

Since the Dr. is tuning, have him guide you on that.

Did this end up working?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jerryl]

Did this end up working?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It worked great! Ended up making about 4 additional revisions to the design, and added features to it to reduce source voltage variations. It's now all controlled by XFI (can easily be done with ECU-GN as well) because I was never a fan of the bulky Caspers box and tapping into the TPS, or boost switch.

**If using the values listed in the sketch; Make sure to use measured source voltage in the calculation, and not alternator or battery voltage.

 

[BobbyBuick]

I did this on my track car wouldnt recommend it on a street driven car but adding a wire to the sense terminal with Diodes and 15 volts .we will see how it works this week in Bowling Green just added it .for every Diode it lies to the regulator .70 Volts

 

[Boost231]

What diode did you use?

View attachment 329649View attachment 329650

I did this on my track car wouldnt recommend it on a street driven car but adding a wire to the sense terminal with Diodes and 15 volts .we will see how it works this week in Bowling Green just added it .for every Diode it lies to the regulator .70 Volts

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[BobbyBuick]

ill have to look i used two .if it were a street car i would use one im just testing it out should wake it up with 15 volts at the battery and over 15 at the alternator.So im up almost a volt and a half thats 12%

 

[Boost231]

Please let me know. I'm going to run a white from the battery to the S first and if I don't like the outcome I would like to use 1 diode but need to fine a good quality one

ill have to look i used two .if it were a street car i would use one im just testing it out should wake it up with 15 volts at the battery and over 15 at the alternator.So im up almost a volt and a half thats 12%

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk