Guys that do bodywork for a living...

Steve V

Steve V's Automotive 757 560 2782
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
I have spent the last month stripping and sanding one of mine to the metal. Car is ready to go to the bodyman /painter. He's doing it on the side and has done several. Did my GN in 2008 and it is bueatiful.

Anyways he says about$1800 in materials alone plus labor of $25-45oo depending on the amount of work needed. Car is gonna be white and not perfect....a driver.

This has really got me thinking. If I can strip why can't I prime/sand/block to save even more money. It's not gonna happen on this car but I think the next one I will try it on. That will be a grey T Type.

Are there any good write ups on step by step after taking down to the metal. I am not gonna do the final sanding or shoot the color but I am kind of interested to learn.
 
There is alot that goes into it, remember ur final paint is a reflection of what's under it, if your going down to metal make sure ur using a good etch prime, from there ur primer surfacer goes on. That's when the blocking begins. The longer the block the flatter the panel. But keep in mind not all panels are flat. Body lines take finesse. You'll need to learn cross hatching a method of sanding. Once you walk through your diffrent grits of sandpaper reptiles with more surfaced, blocked again, u can switch to wet sanding with a block and some guide coat to remove the rest of your imperfections. Then clean, clean,clean. Doing repaints to this caliber can be very labor intensive. Not impossible for a diy, but some basic practices you'll want to learn.

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I will say he must be using Damn good stuff for 1800$ and for that much and labor it would have to be a lot better than a driver. Get a list of the materials being used and double check the price. No doubt u can spend that much but make shure he is using what he said he will use. U pay for what u get sometimes. If u know his work and its good just be care full of it. U can do anything u put ur mind to it just takes a lot of patience.

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You might approach him and see if he'd be willing to teach you so you do the labor under his watch full eye.
 
Charlie he is 1.5 hours away so that's not an option.

He said about $1800, he will provide the receipts. I do trust his work I have seen it before he did my GN and it is good.
 
Sounds like a lot of money for driver quality after you already stripped it.

Disclaimer.......I am not a body guy or painter.

Bryan
 
U will have to say I work on 250k to 500k rigs every day and I don't make that much!! :(

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Without a doubt materials have become outrageous! But be careful using cheap products also. I believe someone else stated u most have patience...that can be an understatement. Take ur time. And really watch what ur doing as u do it. Don't just go through the motions. U can tell a lot what a panel is doing by watching it as u sand. Highs and lows will become visible. The most frustrating part is all the materials u paid good money for 75% ends up on the floor.

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There is alot that goes into it, remember ur final paint is a reflection of what's under it, if your going down to metal make sure ur using a good etch prime, from there ur primer surfacer goes on. That's when the blocking begins. The longer the block the flatter the panel. But keep in mind not all panels are flat. Body lines take finesse. You'll need to learn cross hatching a method of sanding. Once you walk through your diffrent grits of sandpaper reptiles with more surfaced, blocked again, u can switch to wet sanding with a block and some guide coat to remove the rest of your imperfections. Then clean, clean,clean. Doing repaints to this caliber can be very labor intensive. Not impossible for a diy, but some basic practices you'll want to learn.

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as Radio said,a great paint job is only as good as the prep work! priming and blocking are not that bad, body work and panel alignment all play a toll on the finished product. even improper use of a DA when sanding to bare can cause body imperfections. i have been doing it for 25 years and have seen alot of people try to do it right,then short cut out and looks like crap when done. if you wanna learn more try an old fender to practice on. do some bodywork prime and block and paint it. your eyes ,and feel with your hands are the best tools for the job
 
1800.00 is not hard to spend. Sealer,color, clear, all the hardners, reducers,flex additives, etc. No primers or epoxy. The above for a TTA, through a shop at his cost Standox 1400.00 Take your time when you have 300.00 in your paint gun. But that clear sands so sweet.


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MOST PEOPLE JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND THE TIME SPENT ON A STRIP,AND REPAINT. THE LAST GN I PAINTED(FOR A FRIEND) WAS A 20,000 MILE FLORIDA CAR,TOPS WERE CRACKED,MINOR DOOR TYPE DENTS,BUT A VERY NICE CAR. DIS-ASSEMBLED MLDS,LPS HEADER,QTR GLASS,ETC... I THINK I HAD APPROX 120 HRS IN THE ENTIRE JOB. THE PAINT AND MAT WERE APPROX 1400.00(ALL PPG) THERE ARE ALOT OF SHOPS THAT WANT THE COLLISION TYPE DAMAGES VS ALL OVER PAINT JOBS. THE LABOR IS COMPLETED FASTER ON COLLISION DAMAGE , AND SHOPS MAKE MONEY ON PARTS.. IF I WERE TO DO ANOTHER CAR, I WOULD BE VERY CAREFUL WHO REMOVED THE PAINT AND HAD THEIR HANDS ON THE CAR,NOT SURE IF I WOULD WANT TO PAINT OVER REPAIRS,AND PRODUCTS THAT I AM NOT SURE WERE PERFORMED PROPERLY..
 
I plan to paint my car myself one day... Ill have to read up and spend some $$ one of these days lol
 
I spent $1100 on materials alone, that's including everything down to the masking tape, All labor was a week of mine and my dads time, nose, doors, trunk removed and all jambs including ttop areas all redone...Mike
 
What do you think is a fair price for a strip and paint job? Maybe fix minor dings too

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