On Wednesday was pulling the car out to go to the Woodward Buick meet up and got to the end of the driveway and brake light came on and pedal got hard. So backed it back up and thought I smelled a electric burning smell, but wasn't sure since car hasn't been out in a long time.
Was just assuming it was the accumulator ball, but after doing these checks I believe it's the motor. Had no resistance between motor "B" and "D". ( B-1 on test)everything else checked out good.
When plugging in motor plug I can hear a click but doesn't run. Felt motor and is getting warm.
Anything else I can check? looked up price to redo it and might as well convert to Vacuum or Hydro. Which one do you guys think is the best way to go?
Step #3 - Booster Motor does not run.
Confirm that the 30 Amp fuse is OK or replace. Then conduct electrical circuit checks. Disconnect the pressure switch and motor electrical connector and test to the following:
A. Pressure Switch (Ohmmeter)
1. All switch terminals should have continuity with each other. If not, replace switch.
B. Booster Motor (Ohmmeter)
1. Meter should show resistance between Motor "B" and "D".
2. Meter should show open circuit between Motor "A" and "C".
3. Replace motor and assembly if 1 & 2 are not true.
C. Pressure switch Connector and Harness (Volt/Ohmmeter)
1. With ignition on, switch connector terminal "A" should be continuous with terminal "D".
2. With ignition on, switch connector terminal "B" should be 12 volts to ground. (volt meter).
3. If "A" and "D" are not continuous, but "B" shows 12 volts, release parking brake.
4. Disconnect combination valve electrical connector.
D. Pump Connector and Harness (Volt/Ohmmeter)
1. Connector terminal "A" continuous with chassis.
2. Connector terminal "B" 12 volts to ground with ignition on.
3. Terminal "C" 12 volts to ground. This is the main electrical supply to the motor and is fused. If voltage doesn't appear at this terminal, check fuse.
4. Terminal "D" previously checked in step 3C1.
Was just assuming it was the accumulator ball, but after doing these checks I believe it's the motor. Had no resistance between motor "B" and "D". ( B-1 on test)everything else checked out good.
When plugging in motor plug I can hear a click but doesn't run. Felt motor and is getting warm.
Anything else I can check? looked up price to redo it and might as well convert to Vacuum or Hydro. Which one do you guys think is the best way to go?
Step #3 - Booster Motor does not run.
Confirm that the 30 Amp fuse is OK or replace. Then conduct electrical circuit checks. Disconnect the pressure switch and motor electrical connector and test to the following:
A. Pressure Switch (Ohmmeter)
1. All switch terminals should have continuity with each other. If not, replace switch.
B. Booster Motor (Ohmmeter)
1. Meter should show resistance between Motor "B" and "D".
2. Meter should show open circuit between Motor "A" and "C".
3. Replace motor and assembly if 1 & 2 are not true.
C. Pressure switch Connector and Harness (Volt/Ohmmeter)
1. With ignition on, switch connector terminal "A" should be continuous with terminal "D".
2. With ignition on, switch connector terminal "B" should be 12 volts to ground. (volt meter).
3. If "A" and "D" are not continuous, but "B" shows 12 volts, release parking brake.
4. Disconnect combination valve electrical connector.
D. Pump Connector and Harness (Volt/Ohmmeter)
1. Connector terminal "A" continuous with chassis.
2. Connector terminal "B" 12 volts to ground with ignition on.
3. Terminal "C" 12 volts to ground. This is the main electrical supply to the motor and is fused. If voltage doesn't appear at this terminal, check fuse.
4. Terminal "D" previously checked in step 3C1.