Guess my Powermaster died

kurt24

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
On Wednesday was pulling the car out to go to the Woodward Buick meet up and got to the end of the driveway and brake light came on and pedal got hard. So backed it back up and thought I smelled a electric burning smell, but wasn't sure since car hasn't been out in a long time.
Was just assuming it was the accumulator ball, but after doing these checks I believe it's the motor. Had no resistance between motor "B" and "D". ( B-1 on test)everything else checked out good.

When plugging in motor plug I can hear a click but doesn't run. Felt motor and is getting warm.

Anything else I can check? looked up price to redo it and might as well convert to Vacuum or Hydro. Which one do you guys think is the best way to go?

Step #3 - Booster Motor does not run.

Confirm that the 30 Amp fuse is OK or replace. Then conduct electrical circuit checks. Disconnect the pressure switch and motor electrical connector and test to the following:


A. Pressure Switch (Ohmmeter)
1. All switch terminals should have continuity with each other. If not, replace switch.

B. Booster Motor (Ohmmeter)
1. Meter should show resistance between Motor "B" and "D".
2. Meter should show open circuit between Motor "A" and "C".
3. Replace motor and assembly if 1 & 2 are not true.

C. Pressure switch Connector and Harness (Volt/Ohmmeter)
1. With ignition on, switch connector terminal "A" should be continuous with terminal "D".
2. With ignition on, switch connector terminal "B" should be 12 volts to ground. (volt meter).
3. If "A" and "D" are not continuous, but "B" shows 12 volts, release parking brake.
4. Disconnect combination valve electrical connector.

D. Pump Connector and Harness (Volt/Ohmmeter)
1. Connector terminal "A" continuous with chassis.
2. Connector terminal "B" 12 volts to ground with ignition on.
3. Terminal "C" 12 volts to ground. This is the main electrical supply to the motor and is fused. If voltage doesn't appear at this terminal, check fuse.
4. Terminal "D" previously checked in step 3C1.
 
Anything else I can check? looked up price to redo it and might as well convert to Vacuum or Hydro. Which one do you guys think is the best way to go?


Give up and sell the car to me for 10K. :D:D:eek::eek::D:D

There are a lot of options out there, pick the one you feel will work for you and go for it. Of course, my suggestion is the solid and best one.... for me. :p:p
 
LOL maybe $10,001


SOLD! :D


Good luck getting it sorted out. I have a PM in my car and will most likely rebuild when the time comes. I understand Richard Clark is the man to turn to for a rebuild, Kirban's for a newly rebuilt unit. Neither is cheap.

Mine is proportioned at 70/30 front to back. Aluminum rear drums, S-10 long brake shoes on both where big and little pads should be on the rear. I like it for it's ability to hold brake pressure at the rear wheels at the track.

It's a l'il scary on streets, though, NO PANIC STOPS.......especially with no front sway bar...... :eek:
 
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Good info
I have similar issue on friends car
Can't find the fuse for the terminal c it also feeds the delay fan relay?


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