Going Megasquirt

Wow! Good luck. How do you adjust ignition timing? Vacuum advance and rotor phasing may be tough when oddfire. I assume Megasquirt is only controlling fueling?
 
This is a standard setup - timing is set by turning the distributor and then securing it with the clamp. What the ESC does is detune the timing (electronically?) when the sensor detects knocking, until the knocking stops.

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G'day

I've just ordered a megasquirt v3 + msx to throw onto a grand national i've got my hands on here in australia. whats the chances of getting a copy of your base tunes or modified tunes to have a look at to get my head around it all. bjdenniss@hotmail.com cheers in advance for any hints and tips!
 
G'day

I've just ordered a megasquirt v3 + msx to throw onto a grand national i've got my hands on here in australia. whats the chances of getting a copy of your base tunes or modified tunes to have a look at to get my head around it all. bjdenniss@hotmail.com cheers in advance for any hints and tips!

Hello,

The chances are very good if I can find my tune from when my car was "stock", now it is using LS1 COP ignition so my current calibrations wouldn't apply. I am sure there are many others on here as well that could help out with theirs. If you do a search I have a complete how to write up in a post. I'll try and find it and post a link here.

Thanks, Dan
 
I've also been running a Buick GN engine on a MS2/Extra.
It's a lightly modified 4.1 iron block (Champion irons, ported intake, 55 inj, roller 212 cam, roller rockers) transplanted into a Porsche 914.
Stock turbo and intercooler running on pump gas. No knock sensor yet. :-o
Boost at ~12psi so far.

I've been making up my own tune as I go and it's been tough and still nowhere near dialed, esp ignition timing.
Daniel Jost- looking at the ignition tables in your "GN_Flash_black_tune" and "MS3" (from your other thread) tunes, is the main difference water injection?
My ignition timing is a good 5-15 degrees lower overall, some areas like low load low RPM it's 20-25 behind!

Thank you for posting so much data, it's been useful!
 
I too wonder how close my timing table is. I'd say I mostly tune timing on ear and smoothness, and use 23/21 deg during boost conditions since this is (I think) a commonly run value. Its the transition periods between idle/accel/cruise that I'm sure I could benefit from. The engine never stumbles though, and never ever dies! I've had perfect reliability since day one except for my own doing. I've had the MS3/X installed since 2011!

I trust my fueling tables in general, due to Analyze Live and from studying the logs to make sure I'm safe.

The AFR safety system is frickin' rad!!! I did blow up a muffler before I learned not to leave a gap between ignition cut and fuel cut.

A note on methanol injection: I use the cutoff switch on the shurflo pump to switch fuel, timing, and boost tables. I consider this a safety feature for the engine.

I also haven't used the knock sensor to date, though I really should play with that again...

I've tried two cheap 0-100psi transducers and they both give me wacky unstable signals.

What timing wheel are you running nicad?
 
I mounted a 36-1 trigger wheel to the front pulley.
Very much looking forward to trying these fuel/spark values in a couple of weeks! Unfortunately the car is in another town and I don't get to it very often..

I have to be careful doing wot/spirited test runs as the stock Porsche 901 transaxle is a weak link in the drivetrain. :-o
 
I need some help understanding the assembly on my MS3x. I've tried to make sense of all the pictures here,but with all the talk of COP and other stuff I'm lost.
Is there somebody that has a schematic of how I need to assemble the board to use on a GN that uses the stock ignithion setup and sequential injection? I can't make sense of all the different configurations the manual shows.

I do see that I need to install jumpers across D1 and D2, what size resistor goes in R12,or does it get used at all? I want to know what jumpers I absolutely need to make the car run right. The other stuff like boost control and such I think I can get figured out,there is only one configuration for that type of stuff it looks like.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I mounted a 36-1 trigger wheel to the front pulley.
Very much looking forward to trying these fuel/spark values in a couple of weeks! Unfortunately the car is in another town and I don't get to it very often..

I have to be careful doing wot/spirited test runs as the stock Porsche 901 transaxle is a weak link in the drivetrain. :-o

You beat me too it! I am trying to figure out a good way to mount a 36-1 somehow with the stock balancer with the stock configuration. I have aluminum pulleys so that is out of the question. The factory 3 trigger wheel sucks for low speed timing accuracy and accuracy all together I guess... Also a 36-1 would allow the MS to use a "quick start" method when utilizing COP. Once I get some more time between working on other people's cars I will try to get back to mine more...

,Dan
 
I need some help understanding the assembly on my MS3x. I've tried to make sense of all the pictures here,but with all the talk of COP and other stuff I'm lost.
Is there somebody that has a schematic of how I need to assemble the board to use on a GN that uses the stock ignithion setup and sequential injection? I can't make sense of all the different configurations the manual shows.

I do see that I need to install jumpers across D1 and D2, what size resistor goes in R12,or does it get used at all? I want to know what jumpers I absolutely need to make the car run right. The other stuff like boost control and such I think I can get figured out,there is only one configuration for that type of stuff it looks like.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I will have to review my instructions again to check if I am missing something. I thought I documented it pretty well, but like anything it might make perfect sense to me now that I know all about it...

Once I get my car back to my house I will Identify every jumper and component I put in and any other components to leave out. That way you can put everything in the board other than what I say not to that way there is no need to follow the instructions step by step since you can just use the packets to tell you where all the components go.

,Dan
 
that would be helpful. I tried to understand by looking at the pictures and the drawings. Just seems like there's more in the pictures and I don't know what I'm looking at enough to go off of.

this thread and the other has been helpful,but also more information than I needed was discussed and I got confused. Sorry if my questions sound stupid, I can understand a schematic on paper pretty good usually. Maybe I am making it harder than it is.

Thanks for your help.
 
Can I get the car running on stock ignition and trigger wheel without the expansion board? I'd like to know before I start wiring stuff up. Eventually I'll probably get the expansion board and switch to the cnp ignition and 36-1 trigger wheel along with a new harness, but at first it would be nice just to start the car with ms3 and the original Buick harness and stuff.
 
It would just be batch fire and using the buick wasted spark. When I initially went to megasquirt I only ran batch fire, to tell you the truth I didn't notice a nats ass of difference with SFI... The big deal was coil per plug ignition since my stock coils sucked for anything over about 25# on my combo with E85.

,Dan
 
For wasted spark coil per plug I would need a new trigger wheel, no expansion board, or cam signal, right? If so, maybe I should forget the buick ignition and go straight to LS coils.
 
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