GN1 HEADS SPARK PLUG SOCKET
- Thread starter MCH86GN
- Start date
I got the spark plug out and it appears that the threads are ok. I have a Husky spark plug socket and I had my buddy grind it down so it would fit. What a PIA this has become all because of a failed oil sending unit. Now to resetting the CAM sensor, which I’ve never done before. Time to use the search function.
thin wall socket And then machine it down even more. It would’ve been so easy just to bore out the whole a little bigger to make life easier to change plugs When the head was manufactured.
I know. It makes me wonder do I have a set of the earlier GN1 heads or what. Aggressive Auto told that the bore size was opened up a little more in the later gen of GN1. I was also told that there is a 4 digit number etched on the heads which will help you find out the precise date they were built.
Massive Oil leak -> remove CAM sensor so the oil system could be primed and isolate the leak -> leak found and part replaced -> have to set the CAM sensor -> remove spark plug cylinder one and socket gets stuck -> buy a 3/8" locking extension and work the socket out of the spark plug bore -> grind down spark plug socket and removed spark plug which at first felt like threads were stripped -> rotated engine until 25* ATDC on compression stroke -> replaced spark plug and again there were a couple of spots that felt like it was screwed all the way in but it wasn't and I had to use a little more torque than I thought necessary, but it did tighten and it's good to go -> ground the washer on the retaining bolt for the CAM sensor so it won't be a PIA to resintall CAM sensor -> installed CAM sensor per procedure but I can't get the surfaces of the CAM sensor and front cover to mate, there is about an 1/8th" to go. What a massive PIA because the crappy sending unit failed. As a matter of face sense I have an aftermarket sending unit I'm thinking about tossing the stock one. Owning Turbo Buick GN is priceless, but nonetheless can be a PIA!!!!
What is the issue with anti-seize & aluminum?
Any more info on the date stamp? Where located? How to read? Thanks.
I have found 4 concerns with the GN1 heads. If you use TA exhaust manifolds with GN1 heads the manifold support bracket (above cyls 2 & 4) must be scalloped for plug wire boot clearance & socket clearance. The valve center lines are not at the same locations in space so the push rods may rub in the top of the push rod holes since they are on a slight angle. This must be fixed if this has not already been corrected. When using cometics with the GN1 heads, oil drain back from on top of the heads piles up due the small drain hole in the head gasket & the route of the drain back hole to the block lifter valley. If using Champ cast valve covers it's difficult to stop oil leakage at the back of the head. The volume & height of the valve covers facilitates a lot of oil storage before the oil can drain through both the cylinder head drain & the push rod tubes. Also the Champ valve covers may force metal removal from the the A/C heater core heat shield. The good news is that the GN1's move a lot of air (relative to production heads) & are less prone to detonation.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
Holy cow !! Google sparkplug and anti seize . The debate on to use or not to use anti seize on spark plugs is almost as good as using anti seize on lug nuts . All kinds of different opinions out there , even in the aviation industry .
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
I've almost always used a dab on each spark plug. Cars snowmobiles, dirt bikes ATVs. Just need to use common sense and not " gorilla monsoon" tighten it. In this case too loose is the lesser evil. Periodic checks are also a good thing. Don't just leave them in there for 120,000 miles. yikes!
Galvanic action between anti seize with nickel & aluminum.
