Getting ready for a future grudge match VS. a Mustang

neat

Member
I think you're pretty much done.

My 91 Mustang GT is full weight (about 3150 with me in it), uses the stock T5 5 speed, and has Trickflow heads/cam/intake. It made 280 RWHP / 306 RWTQ. I run 12.50's pretty consistently with it at about 110. It's been as fast as 12.26 @ 112 on a great day though.

Tire will make a lot of difference for him. When I run street tires I'm a low 13 second stang. On ET streets or ET drags, mid 12's, and sometimes low 12's.
 

VadersV6

Active Member
I'll say this one more time then ignore it if you like, but Ive been in/built all types.
Ive owned late model mustangs and GN's. I'm VERy familiar with both and rarely had 1 day go by without having the hood up on either.
You need to make a powerband, and KEEP the motor in its powerband down the track. You need minimal loss of power to the ground in the first 330ft.
So like Ive said before.
Big turbo. I suggested a 62mm.
Comp cam beehive springs and caps and measure the installed height so they can get you the right springs and shims, BUT dont call them until you have the retainers off cause the keeper grooves tend to look like **** on the GN's and you may lose alot of seat pressure....you may need new valves and rule that our first. Very few people who change out springs inspect the keeper grooves. I suggest beehive because TR's run flat tappets and you want high rpm valve float control without extra spring pressure that can wipe that pesky #3 exhaust lobe. A beehive has so much less mass reciprocating at the end of the valve (between the spring itself and the cap) that it makes a massive difference in float control. More than going to a titanium cap with a regular valve spring!
Dutt neck will suffice.
Get an alky kit. ANY alky kit, as long as its not all ****ed up like the one I bought on the parts section here and spent 2 years band aiding to keep it working. Best to get alky control or SMC...but honestly, these days, SNOW has come up with totally unbeatable designs and nozzles with actual fluids engineering behind them that create AWESOME spray patterns and use MAF control so you always have the right amount of spray.
As usual Ive gone into too much detail...back to the basics again.

Create the powerband. Keep it in the powerband. Get there quickly and get it to the ground.

An Art Carr 16930 with about a 3600 FLASH stall will get you in the powerband QUICK.
The 62mm Turbo will MAKE the powerband.
The tall gearing will KEEP it in the powerband, if you run that converter. The difference between 3.36 and 3.42 is a stupid argument to have. Its damn near the SAME gear!!!!
Get GOOD tires and at the very least get some Pep Boys special shocks in the rear. You dont want the rear end loading and then rebounding like a basketball which makes the whole thing pointless.
Now if you want to really take him out, follow all that above advice and go with CNC ported champion heads and a ported intake, and a 67mm turbo. Then you have a 10 second car if you can hold the thing together but good luck with that.
 
I'll say this one more time then ignore it if you like, but Ive been in/built all types.
Ive owned late model mustangs and GN's. I'm VERy familiar with both and rarely had 1 day go by without having the hood up on either.
You need to make a powerband, and KEEP the motor in its powerband down the track. You need minimal loss of power to the ground in the first 330ft.
So like Ive said before.
Big turbo. I suggested a 62mm.
Comp cam beehive springs and caps and measure the installed height so they can get you the right springs and shims, BUT dont call them until you have the retainers off cause the keeper grooves tend to look like **** on the GN's and you may lose alot of seat pressure....you may need new valves and rule that our first. Very few people who change out springs inspect the keeper grooves.
Dutt neck will suffice.
Get an alky kit. ANY alky kit, as long as its not all ****ed up like the one I bought on the parts section here and spent 2 years band aiding to keep it working. Best to get alky control or SMC...but honestly, these days, SNOW has come up with totally unbeatable designs and nozzles with actual fluids engineering behind them that create AWESOME spray patterns and use MAF control so you always have the right amount of spray.
As usual Ive gone into too much detail...back to the basics again.

Create the powerband. Keep it in the powerband. Get there quickly and get it to the ground.

An Art Carr 16930 with about a 3600 FLASH stall will get you in the powerband QUICK.
The 62mm Turbo will MAKE the powerband.
The tall gearing will KEEP it in the powerband, if you run that converter. The difference between 3.36 and 3.42 is a stupid argument to have. Its damn near the SAME gear!!!!
Get GOOD tires and at the very least get some Pep Boys special shocks in the rear. You dont want the rear end loading and then rebounding which makes the whole thing pointless.


I get what you are saying

But this is what is in the car and i am going to have to use for now.
1-Zero miles rebuild stock Turbo
2-340M hot wired
3-TT 92 chip
4-FP Reg.
5-3 inch TH style DP with 2-1/2 exhaust
6-Built 2004R
7-fresh set of stock injectors
8-cone air filter
9-PP

And the micro budget only allows for one or two small up grades been
1-Posi rear with gears
2-Dutt neck
3-Torque converter
4-Rear tires
5-Valve springs if needed

Don’t forget about ALL of the bugs once I start driving it.
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
You got your hands full for sure after seeing the post above but it can be done even with your budget.

If you plan on daily driving it that much then get a used Vigilante and lock it up in 3rd at the track and hope it stays locked and gives you a 0% loss through it. That will help you out when you leave the track on the road, but expect to pay around $500 used on that one. This might kill your budget so read below.

Not sure if the 2 1/2 exhaust is needed if your budget gets really tight, but having a test pipe/dump is mandatory, that will make up for a stock downpipe and catback instantly. Open that momma up and watch the boost creep up due to the relief of backpressure and turbo response go up.

You can stuff a 275/60/15 in that wheel well and it will get'er done for you so make sure this gets in the budget. You can out 60ft that car with these tires, a good stall converter and a test pipe no problem and make up for the top end you are going to lose on.

I look at your race like this, if you can 1.5 or 1.6 sixty you can make it really close running around 24-26psi on that stock turbo, if he somehow cuts that 60ft you are screwed.
 

Black Power

Well-Known Member
He is going to kick your ass.

Crank that turbo up to 22psi, hit it with some nitrous too if you have some :biggrin:
 
He is going to kick your ass.

Crank that turbo up to 22psi, hit it with some nitrous too if you have some :biggrin:

Probably but his total is above $21K parts and labor in performance mods.
And I am below $1K.
I should be at the 100 foot mark while he is at the finish line.
 

Black Power

Well-Known Member
Oh never fear. For 21k that hp number is awful.

Turbo buicks are the epitome of fast for cheap :D

Like you could buy my PT51 and he would be in a lot of trouble :wink:
 

a trail rider

Active Member
Probably but his total is above $21K parts and labor in performance mods.
And I am below $1K.
I should be at the 100 foot mark while he is at the finish line.
21K in parts and labor? WTH? Other than the S/C system since you started this thread, what did he have done? I mean, 10K plus a S/C installed... 15K tops and that's if he overpaid for both the S/C and the labor.

Any way I look at it, he's got too much into the car if your numbers are even within 8K. He should be able to build a Mustang w/ 400rwhp for under 5K in parts and under 7K including labor. Whatever else is done... overkill for looks. If he did things like a trans swap, or even a rearend buildup, he should still only have about 12K into an entire build. 21K means to me, he pretty well lined someone elses pockets along the way.

All that said, you have the cool factor, even if you have no hope of keeping up. I'm with others here in the 16930 comments. AWESOME converter. I'm also light-hearted enough to say, just have fun. Clearly, that was your only plan here from the start. It's a good one.
 
do u know the weight of the car? peg leg? tires? i would imagine if ur doin it on the street get the mustang owner all excited with some taunting or something and then beat him on the launch! if all goes well he well dump the clutch and spin his way to a loss!

what kinda mustang?

3450# with 3/4 tank.
 
i just found a great deal on a complete posi rear with 3:08s in it.
i think i will be picking this one up.
i hope its not too much gear for the car.
 

a trail rider

Active Member
3.08's aught to get you BIG mph beyond the 1/4... They prolly won't do you much good for drag racing at this point, however.
 

SloGN

I'm a ASSHOLE.....
well i think that the 3.08 gear will help keep the motor in it's power band longer since you have a mostly stock motor so turning a bunch of rpms is out of the question so the torque will act upon the taller gears better.


the TTA's use a 3.27 gear and they mph better in the 1/4 than the buicks do.
 
well i think that the 3.08 gear will help keep the motor in it's power band longer since you have a mostly stock motor so turning a bunch of rpms is out of the question so the torque will act upon the taller gears better.


the TTA's use a 3.27 gear and they mph better in the 1/4 than the buicks do.

Pat, aren't the TTA's lighter weight also--& w/ 1 mph & .1 sec gains for each 100# wt loss...
 

86BLACKT

Member
why not weld the spider gears and take turns wide until you save some more money for posi ;). Use the money you have now for a set of used slicks. Is his tranny built? If not, he may brake something when he leaves. Get some VHT, soak 'em and let her eat!!
 
update

A tentative date has been set for 9-13-08 @ E-Town

The Stang doesn’t have any new mods and it hasn’t been to the track yet.

My cuz has joined in on the fun he has a “bubble” Civic and his best ¼ track time is 13.40 @105 with A LOT of tire spin.

I have added
1-Stock IC with the Dutt neck.
2-Rebuilt D-5 with a heavy duty bearing
3-Built 200-4R
I will have a home made adjustable Waste Gate actuator.
I will put some race gas in the car the day before and the day of.
What speed and time should my car run?
 
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