Getting ready for a future grudge match VS. a Mustang

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I though that with the shortage of power that I have that the 3.36s would chock me up.
I was actually looking at 3.55 or 3.73 but the votes keep coming for the 3.36s

Even thou the 3.36s would be good for me if I keep the car.

 

[a trail rider]

Chevelle's... How heavy in reality? Two of my friends have one, a 68 and a 70. The 68 owner said that if his weighs the 4,000+ they're remembered to weigh, his must have a serious rust issue he doesn't know about!! He's scaled it and told me it's under 3400 empty. And btw, it's got a 454 under hood, and a 10pt roll cage.

Anyway, get yours running well and test it before you go racing. That Mustang, driven properly is easily capable of 12's w/ 288rwhp and I don't think your Chevelle is there just yet.

PS 3.73's sound good to me, if not 3.55's.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Correct me if I'm wrong....and I'm wrong quite often.

Shouldn't "smack-talk" be done when you are sure the car runs well? Has all four sneakers on the pavement?

I'd tell him the car makes too much power, and you are a kind person saving him from certain humiliation. Push the date back, and tune the car for an all out balls run.

You are way wrong
Smack talk begins the day your friend buys a sport or performance car.
I am in a win win situating he is over $10k into Performance parts and labor.

I have less then $500 into performance and labor, well the posi rear will put me at about $2500. But still a long way from $10K.
So he really needs to put one hell of a Beat down to talk smack.
We are friends so not really a big deal.

BTW today I told him about this thread and he was cracking up.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Chevelle's... How heavy in reality? Two of my friends have one, a 68 and a 70. The 68 owner said that if his weighs the 4,000+ they're remembered to weigh, his must have a serious rust issue he doesn't know about!! He's scaled it and told me it's under 3400 empty. And btw, it's got a 454 under hood, and a 10pt roll cage.

Anyway, get yours running well and test it before you go racing. That Mustang, driven properly is easily capable of 12's w/ 288rwhp and I don't think your Chevelle is there just yet.

PS 3.73's sound good to me, if not 3.55's.

I haven't put it on the scales (sh*t I haven't put tires on it)
But according to the chevelle site the
68 with a 307 No ac is close to or at 3300lbs
My car has very little bondo and no ac, but the sound system will add some Lbs. to it.

 

[notacarlo]

I told you I was probably wrong. :biggrin:

 

[t-typex1]

I would wait until you drive it and work the bugs out. I too have a grudge match with a 91 stang with a built motor. I tuned some the first time and thaught I was running good. I won as a result of no traction on the mustangs behalf 12.55 to a 12.62. You dont want to try running him without some test runs on yours first. get the bugs out. BTW, I vote 3.36 gears as well. The turbo will make the power.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Well it looks like i will never catch the stang
he just ordered a super charger that suports an extra 120HP.
i will be doing the install with him as soon as it comes in.
this sucks big time.

 

[Amelio]

Don't give up... maybe for now but you have not even put your car to the pavment yet ther is still time to lay the smack down

I was trying to finish my car to race my buddy's '01 ZO6 he had a ton of stuff doneN/A put 433 to the ground. He was actually coming after me a few years back because my car put down 430 but I did not tell him it was only at 19psi:biggrin:

Any way I just recently got my car back on the road and he just sold his car so now we will never know who would have won. My brother does have a few friends that have some heavy weight tuners gunnin for me so I still have my work cut out.

My suggestion to you especially with these turbo cars is get the thing running and then start practicing and tuning because with my exsperience they never run like they should right out of the box:smile:

oh and I had a '68 GTO with a 455ci non air it weighed in right around 3500 and change. Your chevelle is about the same as a TR so 3.36 geras would be the way to go.

If you were running a 4 speed and a big block I would say 3.73 and some tire but these little shoe box engines are a different ball game.

Good luck

 

[t-typex1]

Well it looks like i will never catch the stang
he just ordered a super charger that suports an extra 120HP.
i will be doing the install with him as soon as it comes in.
this sucks big time.

Dont count yourself out yet. These little buick turbo motors have been known to surprise people with their capabilities. These motors have TONS of torque and a wide power band. As far as the Mustang,even with a supercharger, theres still putting that power to the ground. Think of the smack you could talk with a win, even with him having a SC!!

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

last week the Stang put 396HP at the rear wheels on a Dyno.
and it has been on the road with NO issues.
So it looks like i'll have to tone down the smack talk and get ready for my beat down.

 

[VadersV6]

last week the Stang put 396HP at the rear wheels on a Dyno.
and it has been on the road with NO issues.
So it looks like i'll have to tone down the smack talk and get ready for my beat down.

The numbers mean nothing if you can make a fat torque curve, use STOCK 3.42 gears and a good Art Carr 16930 Non lockup torque converter. That TC will work wonders. Get good sticky tires and 1 airbag and some good, new front and rear shocks to prevent rebound and loss of traction. If those numbers for the mustang were made on a dynojet, and was tuned on the dynojet, then the tune will be different for the street. My cobra made 483rwhp with 11psi and only a Novi 1000, on 91 pump, no alky....14 degrees timing max. It had a live rear in it instead of the independant rear, with 4.56's (ideal for a cobra). I was fishtailing at 90-100mph. It would hook after my shift into 4th and then the millenium falcon warp drive would kick in and it was gone. But by the time my car hooked, the other guy would have finished the race and be in a parking lot taking a nap. It takes suspension study, application and driving experience to make a 5 speed car go fast. With a TR, it doesnt take much skill at all.

 

[TurboMonte 2]

Enuf smack-down talk--now that he has "more money" than you & has his turbo/supercharger/whatever. You now need more time & $$--or prepare for an a$$-whoopin (unless you scare him enuf to "smoke-em")--not likely if he afforded sticky tires...

1) If you're hung on Richmond--then 3.36 posi is the ticket,
2) 255's (G-15's) @ 27" OD will be fine (but the stickier==the better)
3) If you can't afford alky--do TTwk chip ($90'ish) for race gas,
4) you need an adjustable waste gate controller ($90'ish) for higher boost control,
5) You will just leave-the-line with "near the max boost" you can hold with footbrake,
6) PowerPlate will do nothing for power--just help protect your engine from air-fuel maldistribution,
7) you should never have given away any secrets about what's been said on this website

These turbo buicks are all about torque--not rpms/peak Hp. At 5000 rpms--you're done. Geesh, do you even have a Scanmaster & FP & ext'l boost gauges to "tune"...???

 

[VadersV6]

Unless you have a good street turbo, (TA-49, TE-44...I loved my TE-44) good valve springs, good fueling, good traction, the right TC (a small diameter with low stall, like 2800) and some gears in the 3.30-3.50 range, good tuning and great driving, I think you'll lose. Unless he just doesnt know how to drive and has crap traction. If he can hook, he may kill you out of the hole, but the gearing may help you win at the end.
I raced Wiked87GN's GN a long time ago after I pulled the blower off and was making about 310rwhp...I had 2 year old tires hard as a rock and knew I would have no traction, (real gritty dry road with old asphalt) so I tried to launch in 2nd and blew the tires off up till 70mph, really really bad. He was about 3 cars ahead of me in 2 seconds even though I was barely moving and hung with him through the rest of the run...but stayed that 3 cars back the whole time and lost. He had big tires, suspension and TRACTION. He KILLED me out of the hole while I spun the treads off my tires for like 8 seconds. He was probably running a mid-high 12 at the time, and I lost. 5 speeds are hard to control on the street without killer tires and weight transfer.
Having 400rwhp may be his enemy if he cant get it to the ground. But 2800lbs and 400rwhp and he has a solid 11 second car if he gets everything down. Gotta up your game. Get a 62mm turbo, make sure the valve springs are good, port your intake, 16930 TC with a 3200rpm stall with that turbo (have to convert the tranny to non lock...not a huge deal)...if they dont ask you the weight of the car, the gearing, the turbo, the cam, etc...dont go with them. But Art Carr's 16930's are hard to compete with. They have such light rotational mass they make a massive difference, get those gears, get an HRPartsNStuff.com anti roll bar, make sure the injectors are big enough (50's or 60's), and get it over with and get an alky kit...no GN should be without it) and slap on some big stickies and you WILL take him if you can drive it with plenty of boost out of the hole and boost recovery after launch (boost controller). Like Ive said in past posts, going from the 16930 TC to stock felt like I lost 100hp.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i have added a few things to my mix
one of them is a built Trans that was going into the regal but will now end up in the chevelle.
I need to buy a lock up TC but the funds are limited so I’ll be looking for a good used one in a couple of days.
I am also trying to find a good NO GREAT deal on a used posi rear. Remember its for the For the Chevelle.
This week I am going to the muffler shop to try and have a 3 inch TH style DP installed.
The DP as it is does not clear the control arm at all.
I am also going to mod my actuator to make it adjustable.
After the above is all done the alky and the below items are next.
i talked to my machine shop guy about welding the Dutt neck for me and he said no problem only $30.00 (he welded my main accessory bracket and it looks great)

 

[GNVYUS 1]

The torque converter is where the E.T. is at, skimp out and you will regret it. Since you have the 2004R and sound like you are putting in 3.36 gears I wouldn't overlook a non lockup converter like a PTC, cheaper than lock ups, low weight, great stall and very efficient. Spending $300 on a restalled stocker is a total waste IMO and for the extra $200+ you will gain a lot more E.T.

275/60 MT's ( 28" tall ) out back and you can out 60ft that Stang and make up RPM wise with the non lockup converter cruising around.

Don't worry about a catback as a test pipe/dump is where it's at for the $$.

Alky won't be needed for a one time or day long race, spend $50-$75 on race gas and let him have it if you are on a budget for now.

I wouldn't doubt you are around 3400lbs with the GN motor inside so no disadvantage there over the Stang.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The torque converter is where the E.T. is at, skimp out and you will regret it. Since you have the 2004R and sound like you are putting in 3.36 gears I wouldn't overlook a non lockup converter like a PTC, cheaper than lock ups, low weight, great stall and very efficient. Spending $300 on a restalled stocker is a total waste IMO and for the extra $200+ you will gain a lot more E.T.

275/60 MT's ( 28" tall ) out back and you can out 60ft that Stang and make up RPM wise with the non lockup converter cruising around.

Don't worry about a catback as a test pipe/dump is where it's at for the $$.

Alky won't be needed for a one time or day long race, spend $50-$75 on race gas and let him have it if you are on a budget for now.

I wouldn't doubt you are around 3400lbs with the GN motor inside so no disadvantage there over the Stang.

All great points
my big issue with the TC is that I will drive this car 408 miles to Philly and back to NY every 2 to 3 weeks all year around (for as long as I own it) so keeping the RPMs down on I-95 is very important to me.

Exhaust is hopefully going to be a 3 inch TH style DP spilt into 2-2 1/2 mufflers. So it should flow pretty good.

You are right Race gas will have to do.

The weight of the car doesn't worry me at all; I will take it to the scales and post up my findings.

 

[SloGN]

i vote on the 3.36 gears thats real close to the stock 3.42's that came in the gn's.


does it have the 200r4 or a turbo 350/400 trans

 

[turbows6]

The car will pull harder with a lockup and be more streetable. I had my 3200 non-lockup vigilante converted to a multidisc lockup and it has lots more top end power. It also gets 5~6 more mpg on the highway

If that 'stang runs like it should after the blower installation you had better be packing at least a 61mm turbo and have the supporting mods to use most of the turbo's potential, and have the car able to leave the line HARD.

 

[GDNF2ET]

Try to find some used drag radials..Should'nt cost much...If you turn wrenches on his car too, if you loose, say I guess so,I helped build your car what did you expect :biggrin:

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i vote on the 3.36 gears thats real close to the stock 3.42's that came in the gn's.


does it have the 200r4 or a turbo 350/400 trans

it has a 2004R
today i am going to look at a rear its a posi and has 3.336 gears.wish me luck