Getting ready for a future grudge match VS. a Mustang

WOW... so your goin to run a Mustang that he has been driving for a while and race him with an untested car .. and a "hybrid" at that :confused: good luck :redface:
 
If you’ve already been talking smack then talk it a little longer and get the race delayed. Its one thing to get beat by a faster car, but don’t get beat by another car due to lack of test and tune. Get the car off the stands and on the streets before you start planning your races. Just my two cents. Good luck and I hope you smoke him!
 
Chevelle should not be much heavier than full weight regal, I ran 13.5 at 100mph before W-340 and hotwire, w/ stock chip. But you need to work out the bugs before race day!
 
WOW... so your goin to run a Mustang that he has been driving for a while and race him with an untested car .. and a "hybrid" at that :confused: good luck :redface:

Thats what I'm thinkin'.
You may have lotsa sorting out to do.
Not worth breaking your car over. Probably wont get a rematch if he beats you either.
 
WOW... so your goin to run a Mustang that he has been driving for a while and race him with an untested car .. and a "hybrid" at that :confused: good luck :redface:

he got the car
never drove it.
build it over 2 months
and as of today its been on the road for about 2 weeks
and dynoed 4 days ago
 
2 weeks is better than NONE :p what if yours doesn't run right ?? I'd BS him for a week after ya have it running .. make sure you don't have to come up with excuses:eek:
 
I will take some time to try and get it running 100%
I might even take it to Dynotech he is 30 seconds from my house.
My big decision is on the rear with the gears.
Richmond Has
1-3.36
2-3.55
3-3.73 and so on
 
And with Chevelle tire size is not a problem.
The rush is on my part.
He wants me to start looking for an "off the shelf" Super Charger or Turbo Kit.
and I know if he gets that I will have to wait to next year to run the Regal instead and could still loose.
So now is my best chance to get him.
 
What year and what kind of mustang? Blown or N/A?
What gears does he have?
Have you seen his dyno sheet and know this is a current number, not some old sheet?
What tires does he have?
What suspension work, if any?
Alot of variables with mustangs. I had a 99 cobra and a friend's 99 cobra had 4.56's in a GT stick rear and only a couple mods and 290 at the wheels. He ran 12.60's at high elevation and would pop one wheel off the ground...6500rpm launches will do that. I had 322 at the wheels, and Bob Cosby (Most famous 99 cobra guy around), had 309 at the wheels with just bolt on parts like mine (stock heads and cams), and with suspension work, 200 lbs lightened (3300 with driver) and a 5500rpm launch and crazy shifting, he ran 11.60's. Thats with only 300lbs torque at the wheels.....
My friends 98 GT (pre-99's had total crap heads so the cars dont make power) but he has an eaton supercharger and like 288 at the wheels, but 350 lbs of torque at the wheels. The torque makes a big difference.
I could go on for days...theres a million variables and combos for mustangs. Ford changes things constantly, so there's a flavor for everyone.
The 288 number could be sandbagging..like a run on the dyno in 3rd gear with a crap tune just to show a BS dyno sheet to people and suck them into a race. Know your enemy..:eek:
And Chevelles are damn heavy...what do you have in it?...oh never mind...TR engine in a chevelle..very cool.
 
I second 3.36's and a 26 tall tire.

aggresive Gears will make that low rpm tq all the more harder to get to the ground and you will run outta the power band too quick.
 
A decent converter will get you into the powerband quicker, and tall gears will keep you IN the powerband. About my 99 cobra...Those motors are very peaky. They dont start to pull till about 4500 and hp peaks at 6000 on a stock one, so you have a 1500rpm powerband to work with. Getting smog numbers like a new honda civic, 26mpg with stock gears, and making 390hp, N/A (stock heads and cams) like mine out of 281 cubes is not easy, and thats where the big breathing 4V heads come in. But below 4500, its kind of a dog, so gears make a massive difference. Going from the stock 3.27 to a 4.56 (on a daily driver street car...and still get 20mpg and cruise at 3200rpm at 80mph) is the equivalent of adding 80-100hp. It gets you in the powerband quick, and the manual tranny allows you to get straight to the powerband and drop the clutch. But the TR motor, thanks to the turbo and small heads and cam, has a wide, flat torque curve thats like 4000rpm wide. Peak torque comes on pretty soon, and a decent stall TC will get you there off the line, and the tall gears prevent you from over-revving right out of the powerband before you got any benefit out of it. Some idiot put 4.56's in my GN with a 4500 stall TC, and it was flat out stupid. The motor hits peak at like 4900rpm and its really hard to keep it below that with the combo this guy had. Probably killed my valve springs after 1 pass....probably was floating the valves the whole way down the track. But I still think you could benefit from a little added torque multiplication with such a heavy car...but Im talking like a 3.50 gear and a 2800 stall TC...biggest mistake I made was getting rid of my Art Carr 16930 TC. I thought it was sucking up my gas, but turned out it wasnt. And it felt like I lost 100hp after switching over. The small diameter/rotational mass of the 9" TC can be felt BIG TIME even if you stay in the stock stall speed range. What sucks is how expensive they are though, so Ill never be able to get another one. I traded it for a 9-11 TC that I never installed. The guy got my TC and emailed me, bitching about how "Its not billet!" and "I would never throw this piece of **** on my car!" and "you ripped me off!"...guy was a ****ing moron. I sent him a check for like 200 bucks ontop of giving him my 900 dollar TC to make him go away, and he sold the TC to someone who knew what it was. Some people prefer shiny and sparkly over a bulletproof monster. Its a TC that can handle over 1000hp, but its not a big heavy machined steel TC like his 9-11 was. Art Carr's idea of billet is different, but who cares when it performs like it does?
 
i think the numerically lower gears like the 3.36's r better for buick engines because of their power band and the fact that u normally dont wind a stock gn past 5500rpm. ive heard that people have actually gained time by going from 3.73 to 3.42 in a buick or 3.42 to 3.23's! someone else could explain this better than me but i figured id give it a shot:)
 
I get it
But what about making up the deference with a taller tire for example
3.73s with a 28 inch tire.

I had 3.73s with 26 inch tires on my Monte/GN powered and I loved the way it shot out, but I did run out at the top end. I never got a chance to run 28 inch tires.

Anyway it's looking like 3.36 are leading the pack.
 
You need a full tank of race gas, SOme good hooking tires and id go with 3.73 and 28" tires if over 3700lbs. If 3600-3700 go 3.55. If you are gong to get it under 3400 id use the 3.36 gears. Boost, timing, traction, tune. You better get some drive time on it.
 
after doin some calculations, i would think atleast for now, 3.55's would be a better fit for the car. a 28" tall tire with 3.36 gears in drive would be 124mph @5000rpm which i dont see ur more stock engine doing right now. the 3.55's would get u to 117mph @5000rpm which may still be alittle more than u will need for awhile. of course the mph's will be alittle lower (by 2-4 or so) if u calculate some converter slip in there:smile: hth!
 
Correct me if I'm wrong....and I'm wrong quite often.

Shouldn't "smack-talk" be done when you are sure the car runs well? Has all four sneakers on the pavement?

I'd tell him the car makes too much power, and you are a kind person saving him from certain humiliation. Push the date back, and tune the car for an all out balls run.
 
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