fwd roller and non roller cam parts in gn motor w/pictures

Great Carl....

I am glad others are working on this..... cause my little engine project has turned into 24 months and counting...... my engine is built now....and sitting on the stand... however....my tranny is on the stand about 10% complete with rebuild......once it is done...I can reinstall it and get to dropping the motor in.......bad thing is.... if I got off my can.... I could probably be riding in a couple weeks.... only working on a weeknights and some on the weekends....

You guys forge ahead.....mine will be done eventually...

Bob .... you had any luck yet finding JY parts?
 
I haven't done it yet, but I was going to do the same thing that Carl has done. I've got a 212/212 cam coming from Nick Micale, so as soon as that arrives, I will start the assembly on mine.

And Jeasen, I picked up my dogbones and spider from the U-Wrench-It or whatever it's called now over in MO, along with the roller lifters. Think I only paid $20-25 for everything. I'm leaning more towards buying new lifters from GM, though.

Kind of a pain. Had to pull the top-ends apart on 2 motors to get everything. Actually, 3, if you count the 3100 I took apart before I figured out it had the flat tappet lifters instead of the rollers(wrong year)... :eek: :rolleyes:
 
This is how my roller lifters are set up with the retaining brackets, our motors come out with either the dog bones or these plastic things iv got on my old motor as u can see, not sure if its any help but thought u may find it interesting.
 

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Here's some progress on mine so far...Now to start the assembly...

First pic is assembled with no lifters installed...
Second is showing the standoff while installed...
Third is showing one of the drilled and tapped holes with it spot-faced so the standoff will sit flat...I did not drill thru and the holes were moved to the center a little...
 

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fwd roller parts

keep up the good work guy's.maybe someone will fabricate better retainers to hold the dog bones in place.As you can see I got my heads ready and detailing all the accessorie parts that go on the motor.I need to order head gaskets and valley pan and a few more things and I will have more pictures to come showing the motor and pushrods.Everything is just sitting on the short block and not bolted on yet.will keep you posted.also if you go to the transmission section you will also see my 400 tranny which is just about complete.look for the th400 build up w/pictures thread..
 

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fwd roller parts in gn motor(up-date)

Just a few more parts to go and engine will be finish.Once I install head gaskets I will be able to get the measurements for the pushrods.The push rods will probably be somewhere in the neighborhood of 8.470" to 8.550".I have'nt had a chance to check yet,but for you guys who are doing the same build with lifters,get a pushrod checker around this length and you should be able to hit the mark.Once I get the numbers I will post for you.Just put the turbo on to see what would look like in picture below.nothing is bolted down yet,ordering all new sensors for motor.
 

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pushrod update

ok folks,here it is.The part number for the pushrods is sealed power #rp 3253 and melling # mpr-309-B. length is 8.471".For high horse power applications I would use the comp cams 8.500" with adjustable roller rockers only.For non-adjustable stock and heavy duty stock rockers non-adjustable use 8.471"(rp3253 or mpr-309-B).At your local parts store you want the pushrods for a 1986 buick lesabre 3.8 v6 engine with vin code "B" as in Boy.This is the flat tappet cam motor pushrods,not the roller cam motor.Or if you have the money,just have comp cams make you a set of custom chrome moly pushrods 8.471".You can also vary the length a little depending on the thickness of your head gaskets and if your running adjustable roller rockers.So good luck to you guys and lets get some feed back on this set-up once we get the motors running.I know I can't wait to get mine fired up with my dual pump set-up.
 
This thread is one of the more interesting ones on the board in my opinion. Does anyone think it deserves to be stickyfied?

Thanks a bunch for all the info folks!!
 
I finally got around to start putting the motor together. Here are pictures of the dogbone setup.
mikestertwo
I machined the top of the lifter bores to make sure the dogbones were perpendicular to the bores. I also built 2 pedetals to support the retainer.
 
I finally got around to start putting the motor together. Here are pictures of the dogbone setup.
mikestertwo
I machined the top of the lifter bores to make sure the dogbones were perpendicular to the bores. I also built 2 pedetals to support the retainer.

Great job making it all work! I need to get a spot facer made that has a lifter bore diameter as a pilot, to spot face the top of the lifter bore. Again, nice, professional job.
 
nice job.I purchased a set of sealed power(rp-3253) pushrods today from car quest.total with tax was $.23.00. getting ready to build my street motor with same roller cam set-up with ductile roller cam.Total spent on my current roller cam set up $250.00 for roller cam,$100.00 for fwd roller lifters/dog bones/retainer and $23.00 for pushrods.That's a total of $373.00.under $400.00 for a complete roller cam kit folks,not bad.I'm thinking of having my machine guy start making new dog bones.Will up-date when I get a extra one to take to him.I will have some pictures up of pushrod install soon.Keep up the good work guys and post pictures of your progress.;)





I finally got around to start putting the motor together. Here are pictures of the dogbone setup.
mikestertwo
I machined the top of the lifter bores to make sure the dogbones were perpendicular to the bores. I also built 2 pedetals to support the retainer.
 
pushrod update

If your running a bigger roller cam with higher lift,use 8.500" - 8.550" length pushrod.comp cam part#7976-16 for 8.500" and #7948-16 for 8.550".These pushrods are 5/16"diameter and .080" thickness.;)
 
My push rod length came out to 8.300" Comp part# 7971-16. I'm running a mild 206/206 comp roller cam with T&D roller rockers.
 
My push rod length came out to 8.300" Comp part# 7971-16. I'm running a mild 206/206 comp roller cam with T&D roller rockers.

with roller rockers,you will be able to vary the length,but with non-adjustable rockers you want to be more precise depending on the came your running.I currently have the 8.471 pushrods,but will probably step up to 8.500" or 8.550" to maximize the lift of my 218 billet roller.Nice to see more guys taking this route with the fwd roller lifter set-up.
 
s the rollers and dogbones came out of a fwd buick 3.8, first gen right? Like and 88-89-90 buick lesabre or century or something of that sort? Those things are a dime a dozen in my local u-pull-it junkyards. And the cam, is the factory roller cam bigger than the factory 86-87 TB flat tappet?
 
s the rollers and dogbones came out of a fwd buick 3.8, first gen right? Like and 88-89-90 buick lesabre or century or something of that sort? Those things are a dime a dozen in my local u-pull-it junkyards. And the cam, is the factory roller cam bigger than the factory 86-87 TB flat tappet?

I used the dogbones and retainer from an 87' 3.8 FWD. The lifters are from a 98' 3.1 V6 Chevy. Don't know about the cam. I'm using a custom grind from Comp.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Next time I go to the yard, i plan on grabbing some of these items. I'm not ready to put em in, but if I see the vehicles I want to get the right stuff.

Are the 3.1 lifters the same diameter as the 3.8? Or do they have to come out of a 3.1?

I'll be re-reading the thread, there were a few different builds going on in here, i just wanted to be sure I had my info strait.

Thanks guys:smile:
 
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