fwd roller and non roller cam parts in gn motor w/pictures

This is one of the best threads on turbobuick.com. Thanks for being a pioneer man! We can all learn a lot from this!!! :cool:
 
I ASSUME THIS STYLE OF ROLLER LIFTER WOULD NOT BE AS NOISY AS COMP CAMS ROLLER LIFTERS LINK BARS.....CLICKY CLACK CLICKY CLACK..I HATE THEM....:mad:
 
87Buickracer if you get with me and send me the measurments of that stand off i can make you two of them out of stainless steel or a harden steel that way you don't have to have the stud and the spacer floating. Im a U.S Navy 1st class Machinist with over 18yrs of experiance. my cell is 262-506-8190 ask for Steve
 
Blazer406 said:
IMHO... the plate seems to work just fine in all GM cars with hyd. roller cams.... including the LT1's and LS1's....which definately turn more RPM than most would believe.....the plate itself is under 0 load.... it just holds the dogbones down... which hold the lifter from turning in the bore...

How many cars (there have probably been millions made since the plate spider was first used in the mid 80's) have you ever heard breaking the plate?

How many people have you heard have some issues with regular aftermarket rollers... both hydraulic or solid...?? You won't have to look too hard to find some that have broken link bars... the lifter turned sideways... and wiped out the cam... and other stuff inside their engine....Not saying this happens to everyone...

GM, Ford, and Chrysler all use the same (plate spider and dogbone arrangement) concept in their pushod roller lifter motors....

The concept is sound and proven IMHO.
Click to expand...

Not trying to highjack this thread because thie is pretty trick but the ls1 has a totally different setup.... No plate it has plastic lifter cups. No flame intended
Blazer.
Doug
 
That's Blazer's point. Whether your using metal dog bones or plastic antirotation retainers like on the ls1 or the 3.1 V6, it's a sound design and I am not aware of any failures ever happening. :smile:
 
sombody should put out a complete kit.....dls...weber....rjc....full throttle,i am sure it would be a hot seller
 
Actually I guess I have never been inside an LS1 based engine....

My goal is at some point to have a second black GN clone.... with a 6L Ls1 based truck engine... with L92 heads.... and two TE45-A's... on pump gas and alky..... 4L80E..... 8 sec potential on pump gas...... can't you feel it :eek:


My point was that GM didn't bother to use the noisy link bar design... and what they got ... works fine....

... and no flame taken Doug....
 
Blazer406 said:
Actually I guess I have never been inside an LS1 based engine....

My goal is at some point to have a second black GN clone.... with a 6L Ls1 based truck engine... with L92 heads.... and two TE45-A's... on pump gas and alky..... 4L80E..... 8 sec potential on pump gas...... can't you feel it :eek:
Click to expand...


I want a ride!! :biggrin:

Oh and BTW: Maybe you could use E-85, instead of pump gas and ALKY.. you might like it
 
roller assy.

87buickracer said:
The picture shows fwd roller lifters with dog bones and retainer.The 1 inch spacer will go were the holes are in the retainer.picture is display-I haven't set it up yet.just to give you idea of what it looks like. I will probably use 3 spacers bolted with studs to make sure retainer is stable and strong.Once heads and pushrods are in,I will take another picture before bolting down intake.
Click to expand...
some time ago i wrote about this same applacation in the pit bull section
in this use. when using 3800 rollers they fall deeper into the keepers than they should. when you look at the pic you will see that the lifter is not flush with the retainer on the heel of the cam.
if you use the 3800 lifter guide plates they do need to be clearanced to clear the block inner wall. if you go to a different motor, they are already cut to clear. ( a 3.8 or 4.1), also using the 3800 lifter it has a hole that comes out from the valve lifter body in the wrong location, casing a large leak at medium lift, and cause a problem, that you will see when you pull the end oil plugs. there are roller gm lifters that cure that problem also.

WHY did

I changed it for the better. when going to a ford lifter. I centerless ground down the the lifter quite a lot, then left .003 or what ever i needed and reamed the lifter guide, then stoned bored the lifter guide to my final size. Why go over size?? the lifters are made to run at .0005 to .0008 in clearance. new lifters will not repair a tapered and barreld guide. yes you could install bushings but why. And the best thing about a ford lifter is a larger roller wheel. more action sooner and also latter. cost it good also. to hold the plate in place outher than a few bults on a high lift cam a simple rev kit does very well. If there are any questions you mat e-mail me ay extremeperformanceproducts@yahoo.com
 
This is a neat thread..........and getting a lot of attention. As a serious engine builder, I build by numbers only, not "this car (not sure of the engine VIN though) has the right lifters, retainer.....etc......" I love the idea of this because I hate the CompCams clacky lifters.

Knowing the type of car each part comes from is nice........but not precice. We build engines with tolerances down to the 1000th of an inch. What are the specs on the lifters?....diameter, height? How much spring pressure needs to be placed on the dog-bones by the retainer to keep them in place? How long exactly do the push-rods need to be to work properly on a stock valvetrain? What type of cam are people using? Does anyone watching this thread have a working engine with this setup?:confused: Curious.
 
subscribed too, I'd like to know what is need for the "front" of billet aftermarket camshaft? to work. why are they so diff. from the hyd stock cams? plz :confused:
 
Hello again, been a while since I have posted here, but this thread is definitely interesting since this is exactly where I am in my engine build--picking cam and lifters---so far I have a 4.1 block, a stroker crank, carillo rods and diamond pistons---should make 276 cubic inches and be at 9.2 compression. My plans are for two small turbos so it will spool a bit quicker and I want to limit boost to about 20 pounds.
Obviously the intake and exhaust are going to be a custom build, I have a buddy thats doing the sheetmetal intake (aluminum) and there is a guy close by that does mandrel bending of stainless for the headers.
I think its great when someone dares to be inovative and shares with other folks what he's doing keep up the good work and I will take photos of mine and share as it progresses:) ..............Dan
 
Why not use late model FWD 3800 V-6 Spider & rollers?

Can you use the Buick 3800 V-6 spider to hold the dog bones in place?

Why can't you use the FWD 3800 v-6 roller lifters and dog bones?

Was this in another post?
Walt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

turbobuick
87 GN 25.3 Chassis Stock Style suspension small tire car. Parts or Whole
2
Replies
31
Views
4K
tom robison
T
P
FWD non-turbo 3.8 Roller Cam
Replies
1
Views
368
Pittsburghkid
P
D
WTB: Roller cam lifter guides and guide retainer from vin 3 engine
Replies
3
Views
286
dsmith4994
D
T
FWD roller lifters, dog bones, and hold down bracket!
Replies
2
Views
233
TURBOELKY
T
87buickracer
FWD roller and non roller cam parts in gn motor w/pictures part-2 (up date)
Replies
4
Views
1K
87buickracer
87buickracer
Top