Fuse link/Relay Problem

Charles Young

C Young
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Last weekend I got in the car to fired to it up, turn the key it fired right up and ran for about 15 seconds and shut down. No heater fan, no radio, no ignition but lights work. Per my manual, I looked at fuse links and found one by the starter broken as shown in picture. I guess it was wishful thinking but I thought about just replacing it and see what happens so that's what I did. The car cranked up again fine and ran for about 15 seconds, then shut down again just like before. Same symptoms . I haven't done anything with the fuse links this time yet but started looking around for other problems. I don't know if it's part of the problem but please let me know what you think about the relay below. I have two that look this way, maybe they're just old but they don't look very good to me.

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Well I guess those pictures are actually the relay base or part of the wiring harness as opposed to the actual relay maybe.
Anyway I have now checked the fuse links at the starter by doing a continuity check and they all appear to be OK.
Based on the diagram below, I'm guessing the original fuse link that broke was "A" but I am definitely not sure. Any suggestions what to check next?
53ca738734f4b41732282ea28edcc55e.jpg



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Did you loose 12v power again?

The black stuff is old "factory" electric compound. It gets hard over the years but doesn't really mess with connection.
You can clean the stuff off with solvent and q tips if you like but you will want to put some fresh dielectric grease back on them.
 
I already looked at the fuse links again and did a continuity check on all of them, they look good to me.


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Then I would go for the ignition switch on the column. Check for power in and out. Remove the 2 nuts and drop the column down for better access.
 
Also check the small purple wire at the solenoid "s" terminal. It has an 11/32 nut or sometimes a 5/16
That's the one that activates the starter from the key switch.
 
OK, an interesting thing happened a bit ago. I was checking out some of the items above and decided to try and crank her up. Sitting in the seat with the door open and turned the key on. Everything seemed to have power; then tried to crank it and it sounded like trying to start with a low battery (solenoid/starter sort of popping and trying to crank). Checked battery and have 12 plus volts. Got back in and turned the key on and everything still has power. Had the fan running so I could hear it. Just happened to start to pull the door shut and everything dies. Push the door open, power returns.... move the door and power comes on and off. When the power is "off" nothing but headlights work. Seems apparent that something is going on with door wiring but I never would have thought it would cause all these other symptoms. Ran out of time to mess with it tonight so I figured I'd update and see if anyone has seen this before. Would it be something grounding out in the door to cause all of this......???
Thanks!
 
OK, an interesting thing happened a bit ago. I was checking out some of the items above and decided to try and crank her up. Sitting in the seat with the door open and turned the key on. Everything seemed to have power; then tried to crank it and it sounded like trying to start with a low battery (solenoid/starter sort of popping and trying to crank). Checked battery and have 12 plus volts. Got back in and turned the key on and everything still has power. Had the fan running so I could hear it. Just happened to start to pull the door shut and everything dies. Push the door open, power returns.... move the door and power comes on and off. When the power is "off" nothing but headlights work. Seems apparent that something is going on with door wiring but I never would have thought it would cause all these other symptoms. Ran out of time to mess with it tonight so I figured I'd update and see if anyone has seen this before. Would it be something grounding out in the door to cause all of this......???
Thanks!
The main bulkhead connector for the fuse box is right near that door. I am betting you've got something near it. Besure the bolt is tight on the firewall side. Start jiggling stuff around and see what happens. Drop the column, only 2 bolts, do the same thing. Your hot on the trail! Good seeing you Sunday.
 
Woo Hoo!! Found the problem finally. There is a sharp screw coming through the firewall into the engine bay near the drivers side valve cover that over time cut through one of the red 12 gage wires that powers lots of stuff.
Thanks for all the input gentlemen!!


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Woo Hoo!! Found the problem finally. There is a sharp screw coming through the firewall into the engine bay near the drivers side valve cover that over time cut through one of the red 12 gage wires that powers lots of stuff.
Thanks for all the input gentlemen!!


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Nice! Lucky that's all it did and didn't melt the car down.
 
OK, an interesting thing happened a bit ago. I was checking out some of the items above and decided to try and crank her up. Sitting in the seat with the door open and turned the key on. Everything seemed to have power; then tried to crank it and it sounded like trying to start with a low battery (solenoid/starter sort of popping and trying to crank). Checked battery and have 12 plus volts. Got back in and turned the key on and everything still has power. Had the fan running so I could hear it. Just happened to start to pull the door shut and everything dies. Push the door open, power returns.... move the door and power comes on and off. When the power is "off" nothing but headlights work. Seems apparent that something is going on with door wiring but I never would have thought it would cause all these other symptoms. Ran out of time to mess with it tonight so I figured I'd update and see if anyone has seen this before. Would it be something grounding out in the door to cause all of this......???
Thanks!
Hey Charles I am having the same problem where it won’t crank please help
 
Anyway I have now checked the fuse links at the starter by doing a continuity check and they all appear to be OK.
Charles, a continuity check will show "ok" with just a strand or 2 of good wire.
I'd suggest taking them out, using a Caspers kit.
The relays look like the have the oem sealant on/in them. Is that stuff stick?
 
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