fuel pump not getting power

Some of those relay sockets & other connectors have some black splooge from the factory that sometimes appears burnt. I believe it is an anti-corrosion/weather seal type of greasy paste.
 
Have you looked in tank at the sender? I melted two bulkhead connectors and it left me stranded 50 miles from home. Had to scrounge around town for a new bulkhead connector. Built my own new harness.
Yes you have to be a fabricator, with plenty of patients
 
it looks like i'll be doing a fuel pump change out. my question to this group is if i upgrade my pump to the Walbro pump. can i still use the stock regulator or sholud i upgrade it too. eventally my plan is upgrade injectors to 60lbs. at this point i will be done with my fuel system correct?
 
If you have Erics chip, then you have to set the fuel pressure via an AFPR. If you haven't got a TT chip from Eric, then I highly suggest you do. He has chip/injector combos on his site.
 
If you have Erics chip, then you have to set the fuel pressure via an AFPR. If you haven't got a TT chip from Eric, then I highly suggest you do. He has chip/injector combos on his site.
X2^^ Get Eric’s 5.7 chip, and a set of 60# injectors and an adjustable fur pressure regulator. And a scanmaster if you don’t already.
 
Question gents still no power to fuel pump. I have discovered no voltage on pin A of fuel pump relay with key on. Pin D is hot. This voltage should come from ECM by way of ignition switch. Are fuses are good and I do have service engine light.
 
Exactly.
Or buy a cheap code reader.
Thanks someone mentioned crank sensor. I had a Jeep that would start and run fine the thing is you never knew when it would stop. When it did it would crank but wouldn’t start until hours later. It would shut off the fuel and spark. Problem bad crank sensor
 
Pin A only gets power for a couple of seconds to prime the fuel rail after Key ON, until the car is making over 4psi. of oil pressure or actually running then it's continuous.

Takes abut 12 seconds to reset the ECM after key ON priming to get another reading.

Put a volt meter with a long lead to the relay so it's inside the car when the key is in the ON position to see if you get voltage for a couple of seconds, or put a gauge on the fuel rail tap to see if pressure builds after key ON test.

If you have a helper have them do a Key ON test in the car a few of seconds while you watch the meter if it's located at the relay location. Sometimes you can hear the pump run when key is put to the ON position not cranking.

The ECM/IGN fuse powers the relay through the ECM.
 
AIRC, if the oil press sw is unhooked, that becomes an issue.
I've seen many switch plugs covers rotted from oil getting on it., and the wires hanging loose.
I plumbed mine with -3 AN line, and made a little manifold that mounted up at the AC box.
I had the switch and a port for a gauge sender there.
 
Pin A only gets power for a couple of seconds to prime the fuel rail after Key ON, until the car is making over 4psi. of oil pressure or actually running then it's continuous.

Takes abut 12 seconds to reset the ECM after key ON priming to get another reading.

Put a volt meter with a long lead to the relay so it's inside the car when the key is in the ON position to see if you get voltage for a couple of seconds, or put a gauge on the fuel rail tap to see if pressure builds after key ON test.

If you have a helper have them do a Key ON test in the car a few of seconds while you watch the meter if it's located at the relay location. Sometimes you can hear the pump run when key is put to the ON position not cranking.

The ECM/IGN fuse powers the relay through the ECM.
Thanks I will check this out and get back to you. I really appreciate your input
 
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