Im thinking of using the IROC moog springs on the front i belive the # is 5662 and 5664 one is the regular Iroc spring and the ohter is for a convertable , im using a 36mm bar up front to now anyone have any experiance with either spring and should i go with the stiffer conv spring ??
Front spring ??? ASAP
- Thread starter galoush
- Start date
You don't say what springs you have now. I have the 5660 640 lb/in and I am thinking of going down to 5658's at ~580lb/in. With that thick bar you probably won't like the result with a 5662 or a 5664.
Let me ask you about the sway bar. The bar can only be chosen to suit the springs not the other way around. I just got back from a lapping session and I have the 5660 front a non-linear spring in the back from 118-160 lb/in and stock sway bars. I have grippy Michelin Pilots. If anything I need a stiffer rear bar. I actually have a 36 mm bar in my garage but the car would plow terribly with it.
G Bodys tend to need more rear bar for handling which is why guys can get away with removing the front bar.
Overall the rear of my car is fine and the front is a little to much, not harsh, but I am very aware or road surface quality. It depends on your tolerance to NVH levels.
I measured the front suspensions natural frequency of friends stock Miata and the 5660s match it pretty well. Anything stiffer and ride will be harsh. Springs add vertical stiffness as well as roll stiffness so as you go up in spring the front bar size can (should) drop. If you have the stock front springs now then the front bar probably works okay but are you sure you don't still understeer?
BTW everything I said assumes you are intending to drive on the street and you are not building a racecar.
Also, I replaced every suspension bushing whether they looked fine or not and the car drives very differntly now. Much improved.
Let me ask you about the sway bar. The bar can only be chosen to suit the springs not the other way around. I just got back from a lapping session and I have the 5660 front a non-linear spring in the back from 118-160 lb/in and stock sway bars. I have grippy Michelin Pilots. If anything I need a stiffer rear bar. I actually have a 36 mm bar in my garage but the car would plow terribly with it.
G Bodys tend to need more rear bar for handling which is why guys can get away with removing the front bar.
Overall the rear of my car is fine and the front is a little to much, not harsh, but I am very aware or road surface quality. It depends on your tolerance to NVH levels.
I measured the front suspensions natural frequency of friends stock Miata and the 5660s match it pretty well. Anything stiffer and ride will be harsh. Springs add vertical stiffness as well as roll stiffness so as you go up in spring the front bar size can (should) drop. If you have the stock front springs now then the front bar probably works okay but are you sure you don't still understeer?
BTW everything I said assumes you are intending to drive on the street and you are not building a racecar.
Also, I replaced every suspension bushing whether they looked fine or not and the car drives very differntly now. Much improved.
Thanks for the reply , the springs now are whatever a stock V6 85 regal had and the front end is SHOT and im doing that with the springs . My rear bar is the ATR bar . I may eventually put a Bigblock in this car so i was looking to maybe fit that in too . It does have a cool stance but on some of these dips in the road here in N.Y i hear the tires rubbing on the top of the inner fenders .
I feel anything over a 600 lbs. spring for the front is too stiff. You feel evry thing on the road and the front will want to row like the front of a boat going through waves. Sway bar and shock selection to compensate for such a stiff spring becomes critical. Most of the manufactors that make performance springs for the G Body only use about a 580 lbs. spring.
Thanks again , ive got a set of Blistens im putting on and the Rear ATR bar and the front is a 36mm camaro 1LE1 Another Question , you guys are saying the Iroc springs are going to be to stiff , they were used on a stock camaro though , i realize that its a different car but how does that figure im leaning towards the 5660 now
would the stiffer spring be better for say big dips in the road , here in Long island N.Y and in NYC where i drive in alot the dips kill you and the suspension is constantly bottoming out , so i want to err on the side of avoiding that , but im sure anything is going to be better than now . 
If your car was not a Turbo V6 then the springs were probably the 5598 to 5604 series at 346 lb/in which would be very sloppy by today's standards. They were meant for Grandpa's Buick.
Check out Spring reference if you haven't already.
Big bumps will never bottom out my 5660s but like I said you feel everything in the road surface. As Glen said the fancy spring makers only crank up the spring stiffnesses to the 580 lb/in mark.
Check out Spring reference if you haven't already.
Big bumps will never bottom out my 5660s but like I said you feel everything in the road surface. As Glen said the fancy spring makers only crank up the spring stiffnesses to the 580 lb/in mark.
Since ride is a concern and the roads so poor up there, I would suggest you look into an aftermarket manufactor, like GW, Eibach, or Hotchkis and others. They lower the car about an inch yet are good for everyday driving. If you have potholes and other lousey roads you don't want a stiff spring like the 5660. General rule of thumb for street driving and some autocross is stiff springs- soft sway bar, soft spring-thick swaybar. As swaybar stiffness goes up you lose the independence of the wheels, effectivily tieing them together. What one feels, the other feels. On bad roads, I wouldn't want that. It would cause the car to slide or skip across the bumps and throw the nose up thru the dips, not allowing the spring/shock to apsorb the road.
I put 5662 springs on my car along with the 36 front sway bar. The car handles great, better than I thought it would and leaps and bounds over the old suspension. I changed everything on the front end with poly and dropped the rear with springs meant for the 3 gen f-body 1" drop. Now the problems, the spring say the drop the front none to 1". The front went up at least 3". I will be removing them and cutting at least 1 coil. The front end is also very stiff and when you hit a bump you feel it. I drive the car around 10 miles a week so this is not a concern for me. For a car I was going to drive every day I would stay around 560 to 580lb. I would rethink that though If I was going to put a big block on top of those springs. Take into light I am building a weekend toy with the suspension geared more for higher speeds.
The front went up at least 3". I will be removing them and cutting at least 1 coil. The front end is also very stiff and when you hit a bump you feel it. I drive the car around 10 miles a week so this is not a concern for me. For a car I was going to drive every day I would stay around 560 to 580lb. I would rethink that though If I was going to put a big block on top of those springs. Take into light I am building a weekend toy with the suspension geared more for higher speeds.Hey thanks for the input , ive got the 5660 s to go in and im going back to the stock bar . Im sure its going to be a big difference from now . The bushings are really shot and i took of the sway bar today to put the stock one in , ill leave it off for now . front is super boat right now , the 36mm bar really covered up the 300something lb springs short comings alot . Ill be putting that in my work regal which has my GN bar in it now . Ill keep everyone posted on how it works out .
