Fixed Upgraded Fuel System - Car Runs Worse??

seedling

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
IF YOU ARE NOT DETAIL ORIENTED AND DON'T FEEL AS THOUGH YOU NEED THE HISTORY, THEN YOU MAY WANT TO SKIP THIS POST!!!

HISTORY:
Car sat up from late 2005 to early 2014. Back in 2014 I followed “Spring Cleaning” to the letter. Discovered that the car Bowling Green Customs SLIC, BGC Volt Booster, old school after market chip, air bag in right rear, K&N Filter, Boost gauge on pillar and oil and temp gauges in console. Dumped all the fuel tank appeared to be fine (at that time). A new / upgraded fuel pump was added. It was cold the first I drove it and it ran like a bat out of hell (it would light ‘em up even rolling into at 45 mph). First issue I notice was there was too much boost. I was told to put in stock chip and still too much boost. And something about higher operating temp and too much timing on stock chip so I put old aftermarket back in.

EATING FUEL FILTERS
Then came the fuel filters, one after another, after another and another. So I got lots of practice (if you ever need one changed I’m your man, 5-10 minutes and we’re purring again)! Then one day, I actually heard the filter clog – “boomp” and from then on you had to feather the gas to get anywhere past ¾ throttle or it would sort of shut down. Not really but it wouldn’t give it enough fuel to keep that pace up.

FUEL SYSTEM UPGRADES SHOULD FIX IT, RIGHT?
So knowing that it needed a full on fuel systems upgrade, I added PTE 65 flow matched injectors, walbro 255 pump, accufab regulator, hot wire kit, new TT Chip, all new highway stars rubber lines to tank, new Napa Gold fuel filter, new baffled tank and I thought that I was set. NOPE!! Not so fast buck-o, your driving a Buu-zik, remember? So no it can’t be that easy, right? RIGHT!


Line off pressure adjusted to 43 psi and take a ride. Right away the car feels different, not sure why, but, it does. And remember before the car never spit, sputtered nor did anything funny (other than would not supply enough fuel if you stomped it past ¾ throttle). BUT YOU COULD STILL GET IT TO WOT IF YOU FEATHERED PAST ¾ AS IT WAS OBSTRUCTED BEFORE. Well, now not so much as I started to ease into it and at about 2/3 -¾ throttle it actually misfired. WHOA! Not good! So I stopped that, turned around and drove the car straight home and parked it. It felt like secondary spark issue as it started to feel funny just as it came under a load.


In the mean-time we get a nice little south Louisiana flood which was the highest most have ever seen it as it actually came into my garage. So in the chaos of moving cars, tools, animals and the like I somehow sliced what a brand new tire (which they don’t make in that size anymore so I have to buy two drag radials darn right)? I also misplaced my fuel rail gauge so long story, I don’t know the current fuel pressure. So I’ve two weeks to discuss this with others and I’m told that I need an LT1 MAF and a Translator. OK, fine so I order that (and about a half dozen MAF pipes that I can’t use and the saga drags on).
 
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Sorry, thought this might make it easier to digest (if you didn't want the history)?
THE ISSUE:
Finally today I have everything hooked up and ready to go. So I fire it off and it dies and it dies again and it dies again. My car never does this, as it has always run perfectly. I mean smooth as silk when you start it up and drive it around and all, never have I ever had an issue wherein it did not want to run. That is, until today.

I chock that up to the possibility that some of the fresh K&N oil may have gotten on MAF? In that, I had to buy a new K&N filter to fit the LT1 MAF which I had oiled and let it set. But, it was just a wild guess. So I try to drive the car (in hopes that this might clear up). But, again it felt funny now at all speeds, could not hardly even accelerate, but once you got going it would feel kind of normal (unless you would attempt to add fuel).

It almost felt like I was giving it gas, but it was taking the car time to react. In that, I could feel the throttle body opening but it felt like it took the fuel a while to catch up. Very strange I know but that’s the best I can describe it. It never really cleared up, it still won’t idle right and I’m not real sure what in the heck is going on here. Other than it is driving me nuts.


In between all of the down time I also picked up a scanmaster (which I have started to install today). Sorry, I’m OCD as hell and I have to do everything just so. Therefore the short ass wires on the scan master made me nuts (plus mine was used so no fuseable link as well). And none of that sat every well with me, so I fixed all of that and have it all prepped and ready for install tomorrow. And aside from all of my crazy issues, I just so happen to notice this plug floating around? I also notice what appeared to have been a two pronged connector at the very front of the motor (see attached pics). And I also have a green wire with some little female connector floating around loose all of a sudden as well? So could these two have something to do with my issues or what? And does anybody know what these are or what I might be missing here?

PS, MY WIFE'S FLASHLIGHT IS COOLER THAN MINE AS IT HAS AN EXTENSION AND IT IS MAGNETIC AS WELL! I keep telling her it should be mine (Leopard print or no), but, I'm only allowed to borrow it still ~ ugghhh!
 
That plug is for the temperature light. If you have a temp gauge that wire use to go where the gauge sender was installed.

The running issue sounds like a post maf leak. Check all couplings.
 
I see a large red wire, a small red, and a large blu w/ a crimp connector on it..
Where do these go? They look like "add ons".
Also, that plastic vac line and 90* nipple on the FPR, are not tie wrapped. Trace that plastic line, and see if it's cracked.
Trim the loose harness wrap off, so we can see where the wiring is going.
 
Sorry the wires were too short for you man. I bought that unit used a few years ago and they were too short for me as well. Ill go look at my car and get some pictures for you of these wires and where they go in a couple hours. The red two prong connector at the front of the motor could be going to where the boost control solenoid was once. I got rid of mine a few years ago.
 
That plug is for the temperature light. If you have a temp gauge that wire use to go where the gauge sender was installed.

The running issue sounds like a post maf leak. Check all couplings.

Thanks! Yes it has a temp gauge and oil pressure gauge installed in center console. And I'll check all those couplings this afternoon before I hook up Scanmaster. Thanks so much!!


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I see a large red wire, a small red, and a large blu w/ a crimp connector on it..
Where do these go? They look like "add ons".
Also, that plastic vac line and 90* nipple on the FPR, are not tie wrapped. Trace that plastic line, and see if it's cracked.
Trim the loose harness wrap off, so we can see where the wiring is going.

Yes sir, I'll have to run those down this afternoon? However, what you can't see in the images is a some sort old school BGC Volt Master booster? I don't even know what it does but light comes on. So I assume it works?
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Sorry the wires were too short for you man. I bought that unit used a few years ago and they were too short for me as well. Ill go look at my car and get some pictures for you of these wires and where they go in a couple hours. The red two prong connector at the front of the motor could be going to where the boost control solenoid was once. I got rid of mine a few years ago.

Lol! Oh no man, no worries at all on the Scanmaster! In that, from what I've read they all seem to be that way! So that was no reflection on you at all. And to be honest I probably could have made it work. However, my OCD ass couldn't let it go. Because in order to do that I would have had to slice one of the three encapsulated wires back quite a ways. And I didn't want to do that as I'm not sure where this thing will land permanently? Truth be told I may end up getting the gauge anyways and adding another pod on the pillar where my boost gauge sits all by its lonesome!

Anyways sorry if that came across as me being ungrateful about the Scanmaster as that is not the case at all! It's just that I like to have it all just so and now that I'm having these issues I'm finding all kinds of little nit picking things that I have to fix. Thanks for the response though, I really appreciate the help!!



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That plug is for the temperature light. If you have a temp gauge that wire use to go where the gauge sender was installed.

The running issue sounds like a post maf leak. Check all couplings.

I pulled back the cover and snapped this pic real quick before heading out this morning. And I noticed that the last coupling does look all sucked down. But, I'm not real sure how I can even fix that? Or if that's even the issue??

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All the coupling feel nice and snug. And the other coupling looks ok, I guess?? Damn this maf thing has been a pain in my dairy air!!

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That plug is for the temperature light. If you have a temp gauge that wire use to go where the gauge sender was installed.

The running issue sounds like a post maf leak. Check all couplings.

Maybe I need to lose the extra clamp that I added to just sort of "snug" the maf pipe to the original maf brace? Although it's not really all that right. As it was just to keep the pipe from bouncing around is all.

However, I'm more worried about how that coupling by the turbo has sucked down. Because it wasn't like that before and I don't know how I can keep it from sucking back (even if I do get it pulled back out right)?


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That clamp on the rt side has slid off crooked. Being it's on the metered air side of the intake tract, it may be a leak.
 
Maybe I need to lose the extra clamp that I added to just sort of "snug" the maf pipe to the original maf brace? Although it's not really all that right. As it was just to keep the pipe from bouncing around is all.

However, I'm more worried about how that coupling by the turbo has sucked down. Because it wasn't like that before and I don't know how I can keep it from sucking back (even if I do get it pulled back out right)?
Check the connector at the back side,, to be sure it's not cracked.


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That connector looks to be a bellows type, and is at a "tight" angle. Take a look at using a straight, solid, silicone connector. You may have to do some changes to the pipe, so it will hook straight to the turbo.
 
That connector looks to be a bellows type, and is at a "tight" angle. Take a look at using a straight, solid, silicone connector. You may have to do some changes to the pipe, so it will hook straight to the turbo.

Honestly the angle wasn't tight at all (before it was run). So the "Suck" power on this thing is pretty fierce!

I'm thinking I may scrap the 4" inch pipe and drop back to 3.5" inch that way I can make all this work better. I've already had to relocate my vapor canister and the filter is kind of tight in that corner as it is. So I may not be able to pull this off like I thought? At least not with this turbo and set up. However, a new turbo is still a ways away yet as I have to fix this garbage first. Then I'm adding alky. But, I'm not touching anything else until I can get it back to doing its thing like it should!!


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Sorry just got in (long day). So I'll have to get all the information tomorrow! Thanks!!


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I have a 4" w/ the big MAF, and a large S&B filter. All the connecting hoses are stiff silicone..I think 4 ply.
The pipe has an angle in it, so the hose at the turbo is strait. No problems.
 
I have a 4" w/ the big MAF, and a large S&B filter. All the connecting hoses are stiff silicone..I think 4 ply.
The pipe has an angle in it, so the hose at the turbo is strait. No problems.

Hmm, well, believe it or not my connector / reducer at the turbo is straight. Or at least it was until I ran it down the road a couple of miles. In that, the photos that you see above are less than five miles of drive time. And I got my pipe and connectors from a very reputable company / vendor on the board. So I assumed they would fit and work perfect! And the silicone connectors are supposed to be heavy duty too?? However, something is clearly in error here, as it laid out straight and I got it to fit up fairly well with no real drama involved. And I'm not suggesting that they sold me a bad product or anything mind. As I am merely trying to figure out how to resolve my issue is all. Which is that the reducer / connector going to the turbo is obviously sucked down now. So I'm thinking that I may need to re-think my connector at the very least? So your pipe only has one angle in it? And what is an S&B Filter? Never heard of one of those!

Thanks so much for your help!!
 
Hmm, well, believe it or not my connector / reducer at the turbo is straight. Or at least it was until I ran it down the road a couple of miles. In that, the photos that you see above are less than five miles of drive time. And I got my pipe and connectors from a very reputable company / vendor on the board. So I assumed they would fit and work perfect! And the silicone connectors are supposed to be heavy duty too?? However, something is clearly in error here, as it laid out straight and I got it to fit up fairly well with no real drama involved. And I'm not suggesting that they sold me a bad product or anything mind. As I am merely trying to figure out how to resolve my issue is all. Which is that the reducer / connector going to the turbo is obviously sucked down now. So I'm thinking that I may need to re-think my connector at the very least? So your pipe only has one angle in it? And what is an S&B Filter? Never heard of one of those!

Thanks so much for your help!!

Here's a pic of the intake I got from Earl Brown.
The cleaner is from: http://www.sbfilters.com/products/universal-filters/round-with-flange
Pulling enough vac to collapse a coupling like that, would appear to me, to be an issue. Try taking the filter off, and see if it collapses.
I'd not give up on the 4", yet.

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Here's a pic of the intake I got from Earl Brown.
The cleaner is from: http://www.sbfilters.com/products/universal-filters/round-with-flange
Pulling enough vac to collapse a coupling like that, would appear to me, to be an issue. Try taking the filter off, and see if it collapses.
I'd not give up on the 4", yet.

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Wow! Thanks for the photos! Very nicely detailed engine compartment (haven't made it that far yet with mine - obviously)! Man that angle is totally different from mine! I'll try that and see what happens. Getting slammed with work right now and haven't had time to take a whizz the past two days!

Thanks again for the reply! I'll post up some numbers and the results of that little idea as well soon! Thanks.


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Actually the angle is the same. It's just that adjustability I was talking about where you can articulate in the middle to 'steer' it past the IAC and aim it down at the perfect angle.

I love how 'meaty' that pipe looks. :)
 
Actually the angle is the same. It's just that adjustability I was talking about where you can articulate in the middle to 'steer' it past the IAC and aim it down at the perfect angle.

I love how 'meaty' that pipe looks. :)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's what she said!!!! :)
 
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