Finally got the engine out, what's recommended?

TireFryer

The New Kid
Also if the stock nylon timing chain is still in there change it out asap even if it looks mint, it can cause big problems at any power level at any time.
Removing the heads just to take a peak isn't the best idea, id wait till its necessary like blowing something or a head porting job, the factory seal is like cement, hard to duplicate the second time without a new engine build.
I wasn't going to change out my timing chain... then i did and im glad... was loose as can be and was cracked... wasn't broken it missing teeth but it was on its way out. ALWAYS change the timing set out...
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
You're fine your choice but I stand by my recommendation of not disturbing the factory seal if you don't have to. Not sure what you think you will see by pulling them. A compression and leakdown will tell much more than a visual inspection imo.
 
Beg,borrow or buy a borescope stick the business end down the spark plug holes.
Rotate engine by hand until each piston is at the bottom of the bore.
This should "shine a light" on your engine condition.
 

Mobiltek

New Member
Yeah it's a nylon coated timing sprocket. Can't believe this was once acceptable. 8 out of ten engine failures i dealt with in the past were because of this garbage. Good thing I have another setup.
The bore scope is a good idea vs pulling the heads I'll borrow one from work. Last year i comp tested the engine and my lowest reading was #6 and #1 at 140psi. The best was # 3, at 146 so it seems pretty solid. She's definitely going to need a weeks worth of scrubbing to see bare block. I didn't realize there was that much oil leaking down the block.
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captndave737

Well-Known Member
If that is a factory seal on those head gaskets I would leave that alone. No way to torque it like the factory did.
I'd put a new water pump on it while out and you have the front cover off.
I agree. If Your'e not making mods I'd leave the heads on.
 

turbodave231

Moderator
The 84-87 turbo Buick turbo engines all used a rubber oil pan gasket, no cork (grey in color). I'm not a fan of HV oil pumps. The extra volume puts additional load on the cam drive gear and cam sensor gear. I have seen (and repaired) blocks where the cam wears into the block. If you Blueprint the stock front cover and oil pump, you will pickup oil pressure and get better oil supply without higher loads of a HV cover. It is very important to control oil pump gear end play. I shoot for .003-.004" end play. Do a search. the subject has been beat to death on this forum.

Add the cam roller thrust button. They were manufactured with a plastic cup and spring to control cam thrust. The thrust bearing upgrade is detailed in a Buick Technical Service Bulletin.

Disassemble, clean and inspect your cam sensor. I've seen lots of loose bushings in the cam sensor. Inspect the crankshaft front pulley closely. I've seen plenty that were cracked in the keyway.

New springs, sprockets and chain, valve stem seals.
 
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