Feedback on powerlogger file

As in, it might be causing the knock
Yes . Do what Joe said . Under hard acceleration the motor wants to roll over and the larger aftermarket down pipe hits the upper control arm mount . It may need motor mounts if it's real bad .
 
One way to find out is with the hood open put the car in drive with your foot on the brake and give it gas. You'll see the motor rock to the right. Maybe have someone stand on that side of the fender to look/hear if its hitting. Even though the motor mounts are new they still will have give especially if they are stock replacements. That's why most of us have engine tie down straps on the drivers side attached to the alternator bracket bolt(special bolt with an eye loop in it).
 
If he does have an issue there
It would be best to get the rjc brace.
The torque strap can bend and break the alternator setup its attached to.
I've replaced the mounts before and saw Jason mention the brace for folks with stock mounts or/in addition to HR mounts. I figured the HR mounts was a good upgrade and I know what I'm getting myself into with the mount replacement :)
 
you already replaced the mounts just get the RJC brace. You said ....with stock mounts or/in addition to HR mounts Jason says to get the brace. Your half way there. Why replace them again?
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you already replaced the mounts just get the RJC brace. You said ....with stock mounts or/in addition to HR mounts Jason says to get the brace. Your half way there. Why replace them again?
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Because I wanted to re-torque the head bolts anyways, and I'd rather upgrade what's there than add a new part. I was kicking myself pretty soon after installing new stock mounts, the intent was to keep the TAPerformance headers from hitting the steering shaft, but turns out even new stock replacement mounts aren't enough for that. Ended putting the jeep shaft in.
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I have returned. I now have a child, and we have moved. But! the GN lives on, and with the same problem: very rich under boost

I swapped out the motor mount for HR mounts, wired in boost to the power logger, verified fuel pressure, and adjusted the downpipe position, trying to make sure it was no longer touching the headers.

Posting on the TurboTweak forum, Eric suggested the MAF readings were the problem. He verified my translator settings. I swapped in ANOTHER new MAF (another 3" LT1 I bought from Eric), same problem. With the stock MAF, the problem goes away. Eric has offered to check out the translator (maybe I knocked it against something, I don't know). But otherwise, kinda stumped.

NEW MAF(x2 same symptoms)
PL_newmaf.png


OLD MAF
PL_oldmaf.png
 
I have returned. I now have a child, and we have moved. But! the GN lives on, and with the same problem: very rich under boost

I swapped out the motor mount for HR mounts, wired in boost to the power logger, verified fuel pressure, and adjusted the downpipe position, trying to make sure it was no longer touching the headers.

Posting on the TurboTweak forum, Eric suggested the MAF readings were the problem. He verified my translator settings. I swapped in ANOTHER new MAF (another 3" LT1 I bought from Eric), same problem. With the stock MAF, the problem goes away. Eric has offered to check out the translator (maybe I knocked it against something, I don't know). But otherwise, kinda stumped.

NEW MAF(x2 same symptoms)
View attachment 396098

OLD MAF
View attachment 396099
Top screen with new maf
Wb shows its loading up fuelwise way to rich
Old maf screenshot shows it doesnt.
 
Stock: 6-7
LT1: 7-8

As far as I know it's a 5.7 chip. Looking through my receipts I can't verify, so I'll have to check the chip.
5.7 has to have fuel manually added /subtracted for temperature/humidity changes. Was there a temperature/humidity change from the stock MAF to LT1? I'm talking 10 degrees or more...and humidity trumps temperature. This MIGHT be the reason you saw a fueling change.
 
5.7 has to have fuel manually added /subtracted for temperature/humidity changes. Was there a temperature/humidity change from the stock MAF to LT1? I'm talking 10 degrees or more...and humidity trumps temperature. This MIGHT be the reason you saw a fueling change.
No, I live on the central coast of California, temperature and humidity are basically constant.

As soon as I swapped back to stock MAF, fueling was corrected. Ie., regardless of when I swap MAFs, the LT1s are rich, and stock is correct.
 
Wait till you get the Translator back from Eric...tho I've never seen one crap out yet...they're very rugged.
 
Wait till you get the Translator back from Eric...tho I've never seen one crap out yet...they're very rugged.
Yeah, that's what I read, seems like a long shot but two MAFs in... Plus if it is malfunctioning, it's only "partially". As a test I set Base to "0" and it ran particularly rich, which I would expect. We'll see! Thanks very much for the input!
 
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