I remember reading through a HotRod or CarCraft article "G-body builders guide". Article was pretty muchly usless if your not swapping a bigger motor into your car, but it did go into some suspension/braking. Said something that a certain year Ford explorer disc brake setup would work in the back?????? I'm guessing you'd need bigger rims to accomidate the brakes? Anyone else see this?
Explorer rear disc's
- Thread starter DCVING 6
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
no, but this would be sweeeeet if we could do this cheap 
Some problems with the Explorer discs:
#1 Ford bolt pattern would require redrilling the rotors
#2 The rotors are solid and not vented
#3 You will still have the problem mounting a caliper bracket because of the goofy G body axle flange.
#4 Frame and or shock clearance could still be critical depending on the caliper location.
#1 Ford bolt pattern would require redrilling the rotors
#2 The rotors are solid and not vented
#3 You will still have the problem mounting a caliper bracket because of the goofy G body axle flange.
#4 Frame and or shock clearance could still be critical depending on the caliper location.
I picked up a set of new take-off Explorer brakes a long time ago and this made me pull them out instead of trying to post from old, foggy, memories.
These are a great setup. I believe Currie is selling them as a package for their rears as "Currie Brakes." The hub center is near a dead on match for the centers of my stock T wheels. The rotors are just over 11" and the whole works is about 12 1/2" to the outside of the dust shield. The caliper is designed to fit inside that same curve. I sat a T wheel on at set. They look good back there and fill up the windows in the wheel. This is a complete brake unit. They come with the rotor, caliper, dust shield, and a drum style emergency brake inside the rotor.
To cover Lee's points.
1. Getting the rotors drilled can be done at any machine shop and it should be pretty cheap.
2. The rear brakes do much less braking than the fronts and are less prone to warpage.
3. There are no mounting brackets to fabricate. The whole package mounts with the four bolts for a Ford rear tube end. This would be a great time to upgrade to the Ford tube ends and bearings to eliminate the "C" clips. Then bolt on your new units, hook up the brake lines and the parking brake.
4. The caliper is mounted to fit at the rear of the housing. This would clear the control arms and that leaves the shocks to clear in that space. The caliper extends in about 3" from the outside of the axle flange.
These are a great setup. I believe Currie is selling them as a package for their rears as "Currie Brakes." The hub center is near a dead on match for the centers of my stock T wheels. The rotors are just over 11" and the whole works is about 12 1/2" to the outside of the dust shield. The caliper is designed to fit inside that same curve. I sat a T wheel on at set. They look good back there and fill up the windows in the wheel. This is a complete brake unit. They come with the rotor, caliper, dust shield, and a drum style emergency brake inside the rotor.
To cover Lee's points.
1. Getting the rotors drilled can be done at any machine shop and it should be pretty cheap.
2. The rear brakes do much less braking than the fronts and are less prone to warpage.
3. There are no mounting brackets to fabricate. The whole package mounts with the four bolts for a Ford rear tube end. This would be a great time to upgrade to the Ford tube ends and bearings to eliminate the "C" clips. Then bolt on your new units, hook up the brake lines and the parking brake.
4. The caliper is mounted to fit at the rear of the housing. This would clear the control arms and that leaves the shocks to clear in that space. The caliper extends in about 3" from the outside of the axle flange.
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