Engine tapping very loud after 10 minute warmup and getting worse!,

.015 side clearance on the rods will cause noise when it's cold, and it will pretty much go away when hot. The forged H beams in one of my engines has .015 and that is how they act. Too loose really, but that is how they were made years ago. The new Molnar rods are much tighter.
 
Might be a lifter that took a shit on you. Pull the valve covers and check your push rods. The noise your hearing can be echoing from anywhere.
 
I had Rod knock that I mistakened for a lifter. Would knock on start up then go away, after a while it would take longer to quiet until it wouldn't. By then it was to late.
 
Pulled the engine out today. Pulled the headers and intake. Really haven't seen a problem in the lifters, rockers or pushrods. I do have oil in every intake and exhaust port all over the valves. Oil on the plugs and on top of pistons viewing thru the ports and spark plug holes. I have PP stock iron heads with SS Ferra Valves. No seals on the exhaust valves. Every valve and port was wet with oil on the stem side intake and exhaust.
 
Pulled the heads and found all cylinders very oily. Pistons are solid black on top. Combustion chambers and valves all look oily black. Added photos. I have not got into the bottom end yet. All the lifters and pushrods looked good. I've not really found what was making the noise yet.
 

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I know that person very well and I am very suspicious . I may know tonight. It won't be long!! I'll post again shortly. I don't think they ever seated???
 
Pulled a piston and #2 main bearing. Rod bearing and main bearing were wiped and rod bearing wiped and pitted bad. The dot on the piston rings were facing up towards the crown of the piston. I checked the side clearance on all the rods and most wer excessive between .020 and .026. Crank endplay was .007. Thrust surfaces looked good on the bearing and crank. I'll finish taking apart tomorrow. Oil pressure was good when idling and driving???
 
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