Engine mount install

mike_stahl2000

Active Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
I tried doing a search on how to change out the motor mounts only to find people also asking and really no input on how to do it on a GN that is 100% intact. So to answer your questions, yes, it can be done without removing the starter, exhaust, ect... The driver side was the easiest I will say that. I just purchased HR parts n stuff poly engine and trans mounts. I had access to a post lift which made it a lot easier than laying on your back. Someone has had the motor out of my car at some point so the bolt sizes were random, just have a 5/8", 11/16", 15mm, 16mm, and a 18mm deep socket handy. Also a 3/8" impact, 12" impact extension and those same sizes in a impact swivel socket. Medium pry bar, also have the same size combination wrenches handy. Throw all that stuff on a roll cart and it should save you the aggravation of running back and forth to the tool box. I also had a dead man stand available with a 6" 2x4" block. Use that to support the engine by the pan. Keep clear of the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the driver side first so you get into the rhythm of how it's done on the easy side. I pulled out the two bolts holding it to the block, then the long bolt. The long one is what you will most likely want to use the impact and long extension on. Some times it is still clamped around the clam shell a little so use the prybar to pop it off. May take a couple of taps with a hammer on the end of the pry bar to knock it off the clam shell. Fish it out towards the front. May have to finesse some hoses to get the old one out. The new HR mount slides in a little easier. You will need a 3/8" Allen socket if I remember right. Put some lock tite on the bolts and affix it to the block. I found it easier to leave the long bolt out till you get the other side all set. Now for the side that is a bit of a pain. Make sure the battery negative is disconnected and remove the main wire from the starter. I think that was a 5/8", I used a socket on a small 1/4" ratchet with a flex handle. Have a good ratchet with 80 teeth as space is limited. Remove the bolts holding the pass side mount to the block. The bolt towards the front is the worst but it can be done if you have a long flex handle ratchet. Then undo the long bolt. The last guy installed the bolt from the starter side so that took some finesse to remove, I pulled the bolts out for the clam shell and I was able to pull the long bolt out then. I then had to put one or two bolts back into the clam shell so I could knock the mount off of the clam shell. Then I removed the clam shell bolts again. I slid the clam shell out towards the starter. It slid right out with no issues. I was then able to finesse the mount out, it took some twisting and turning but finally got it out. I then put the HR mount in and bolted it to the block. After that I was able to slide the clam shell back in and bolt it up. You may have to raise the motor up a little to help with the process of the pass side. Once the mount and clam shell were in bolted up, I then lowered the motor back down and it just seemed to fall into place with minor help of pointed end of the seal puller/pry bar to get the hole to line right up. I slid the long bolt in from the front and also added large fender washers with nylock nuts onto them and torqued everything down to the specs in the instructions. I hope this is able to help someone. And remove some of the hype about ripping half the car apart to do it. It took me about 2 hours to knock this out. Maybe a little longer if you have to do it on a creeper. If so be sure to chock the rear wheels, use stands. And good luck.


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Great write up I’m getting ready to take it on myself but on my back thanks for the info

Best of luck to you. We have a place here that rents bay space out with a lift by the hour, might be worth looking into to see if you have something similar around your area.


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Best of luck to you. We have a place here that rents bay space out with a lift by the hour, might be worth looking into to see if you have something similar around your area.


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I’ve always wondered if there was a Shop like that near me


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Old post, but just curious, is "clamshell" referring to the frame mount? Ie., to pull out the motor mounts you have to pull out the frame mounts as well? Building up to do this later this week, looks like a pain.
 
Nope.

Two bolts to the block on the motor mount & one long bolt where the mount attaches to the frame pad.

You may need to jack motor a touch from oil pan(use a nice sturdy block) to get access to bolts & to get bolts out.

Maybe go with the H&R parts motor mounts or at least the driver side.
 
Nope.

Two bolts to the block on the motor mount & one long bolt where the mount attaches to the frame pad.

You may need to jack motor a touch from oil pan(use a nice sturdy block) to get access to bolts & to get bolts out.

Maybe go with the H&R parts motor mounts or at least the driver side.
Just did this last night myself on the driver's side. nice piece of 2x6 under the pan, take it easy lifting. I took the wheel and tire off, and went between the frame and inner fender with a conglomerate of extensions and a swivel. HR mount is taller than the demolished stock ones, so now I need to do the other side for the engine to sit level.
 
Now that I'm replacing my stock headers, steering shaft, & upgrading my turbo I should've just waited :LOL::LOL:! Lots more room with the headers & steering shaft out.

Though it is completely doable like you & I did it. Think the hardest part for me was getting the new mount hardware in, getting tools, & my hands in there.
 
Now that I'm replacing my stock headers, steering shaft, & upgrading my turbo I should've just waited :LOL::LOL:! Lots more room with the headers & steering shaft out.

Though it is completely doable like you & I did it. Think the hardest part for me was getting the new mount hardware in, getting tools, & my hands in there.
Getting the socket head screws good and tight with the swivel and extension train the length of the titanic was the hardest part. The rear one I got at from underneath with just the ratchet and hex key socket, and the front one I held my tongue just right and closed my eyes :LOL:

I woulda just reused the stock bolts but they're shorter than the ones supplied by HR.

I can relate to the sentiment. I decided to just live with the mount for now. As good as I am at the "but while I'm here" the body would be off the frame before it was over.
 
It's doable, I was on my back in my garage, no special tools.

I had mine partially done before I had to stop - realized my hand was weak because it was broken, not because I was being lazy. Ended up paying to get it done while I got used to having 12 screws in my hand, but I was close to doing it solo.
 
Great write up. Good to know it can be done =)
It's not a great write up. It's a completely unreadable block of text.

In what part of the world do they not use paragraphs, and are there GN's there?
 
It's not a great write up. It's a completely unreadable block of text.

In what part of the world do they not use paragraphs, and are there GN's there?
Forget the grammar. It doesn't matter, its the content that is important . Its very informative for those who never did the job. Look passed it. We are all here to help each other..... Not criticize
 
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