Educate me , Please, on Data

Lockman

OK.....Now I get It !
Took this ' Still ' shot today. Integrator & BLM have been very Low for a while. The O2 & Cross count cycle timely & all the way thru their scales. The Engine speed always goes up ~ 100 RPM , when I plug into the ALDL.
My question is on the Load ? It's idling , in Park , with all accessories off? I do not have AC .
Does this % DC look around Normal ??? ( oh yeah,... 'Cuz sometimes I'm an Idiot ,......What does 'DC' stand for ???? )
Thanks,
....Richie
7-9-22 Data.jpg
 

Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
DC typically means duty cycle. But calculated load is not duty cycle, I don't know what tool you're looking at, but that needs to be disambiguated. 49% duty cycle at idle would indicate a pretty serious problem with the fuel system, but a load number of 49 (out of 255) at idle is not a problem at all. The software may not have that field labelled correctly.

The BLM is the block learn multiplier, basically the 1980s equivalent of long term fuel trim. A perfect engine will be at 128. Lower than 128 and the ECM is pulling fuel from the base map, above 128 means it's adding.

Yours is 110. Your O2 cross counts are in the triple digits, so the O2 sensor is working and the ECM is balancing fuel around stoich. That's good.

But the ECM is having to pull a lot of fuel to keep the AFR at the target. That's an indication of a problem, but probably not a big one. This circles back to the duty cycle/load thing. The system pulling fuel is not consistent with a 49% duty cycle, but it IS consistent with an absolute load of 49 out of 255.

So, either the injectors are supplying too much fuel (fuel pressure too high? Does it have a misadjusted regulator?), or it's not getting enough air (clogged air filter, IAC ports packed with carbon?). Anything that reduces air into the intake at idle will lead to low BLMs. Is the PCV system blocked off? That air matters.

What does it look like at 2000rpm? If it's the IAC port is clogged up, you'll see more normal numbers at spots where the throttle plate is open. If the BLM is still low, then you're looking at a clogged air filter or the fuel pressure is too high, or something else, but I'd check those first.
 

Lockman

OK.....Now I get It !
Thanks for taking the time with this great info. I appreciate you with steering me in the right direction .
I 've got a cab mounted Autometer FP gauge @ 38, line on, @ warm Idle. The IAC is clean & I recently installed a cold air kit. PVC is newer & clear.
I will record data @ 2000 RPM & let you know.
Thanks again,
....Richie
 

Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
So, no movement at all.

If you're sure the air filter isn't stuffed with a dead mouse, are you sure those are the stock injectors?
That's not a stock PROM ID, so what chip is in there? Do you know?
 

Lockman

OK.....Now I get It !
I'm sure about the Rat's .....Its a newer K&N . I Replaced the Injectors & Caspers harness last year This is what's in there :
New OEM Injector's.jpg


I've got Eric's Chip in there.....for about 3 years now : TurboTweak 5.6
 

Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
Ok, good. What you'll want to do is get a log with that little tool you're using and consult with Eric at TurboTweak. He should be able to look at the log and see why the BLM is where it is and get you moving in a better direction. The chip might be coded for a smaller injector.
 

Lockman

OK.....Now I get It !
Roger, that..... , but I don't think that there is a smaller Injector than 28.6 #'s ? I spoke to Eric a while back & he did not have answer. 🙄 He did say that my chip was able to handle even a bit bigger Injector ? This has certainly been a Conundrum , for quite a while now. 🤕
The tool is John Wales's bluetooth adapter @ 1324 Electronics. Reads out to my Android NextBook.
Thanks for try'n.....
.....Richie
 

Reggie West

Well-Known Member
TurboBuick.Com Supporter!
Your TPS voltage is a little low at idle. It should read .48 volts at idle and 4.5 or better at WOT.

Not terrible but it will help.
 

Lockman

OK.....Now I get It !
Thanks Reggie,
.....I 've always read the TPS should be .40 to .42 @ warm idle & just over 4 volts @ WOT ???

" (note that everything below should be done with the car in PARK, not DRIVE) 1. Start the car and get it up to operating temperature. 2. With the engine-off, key-on, adjust the TPS per the GNTTYPE procedure so that you get the following on the Scanmaster: 0.40 to 0.42 volts with your foot off the gas pedal. Over 4.0 volts when you push the gas pedal to the floor. (note: many people say you need to have at least 4.6 or more volts when you floor the gas pedal. This is not true. Just make sure it's comfortably over 4.0 volts when you floor it. 4.25 volts would be fine."
 

Pittsburghkid

Displacement Replacement.
Thanks Reggie,
.....I 've always read the TPS should be .40 to .42 @ warm idle & just over 4 volts @ WOT ???

" (note that everything below should be done with the car in PARK, not DRIVE) 1. Start the car and get it up to operating temperature. 2. With the engine-off, key-on, adjust the TPS per the GNTTYPE procedure so that you get the following on the Scanmaster: 0.40 to 0.42 volts with your foot off the gas pedal. Over 4.0 volts when you push the gas pedal to the floor. (note: many people say you need to have at least 4.6 or more volts when you floor the gas pedal. This is not true. Just make sure it's comfortably over 4.0 volts when you floor it. 4.25 volts would be fine."
I am just getting my car back up and running and got the code 22 for tps sensor low. Scanmaster is showing .04 volts at idle. Where would I find the procedure to adjust the tps for the necessary voltage.
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
I am just getting my car back up and running and got the code 22 for tps sensor low. Scanmaster is showing .04 volts at idle. Where would I find the procedure to adjust the tps for the necessary voltage.
I found this helpful:

Turbobuick.com thread by - Ken Mosher

IAC Reset Procedure with a Scan Tool - alternatively, a digital voltmeter

Procedure

The ECM controls idle rpm with the IAC (idle air control) valve. The idle rpm is programmed into the PROM. To increase idle rpm the ECM moves the IAC valve out allowing more air to pass by the throttle plate. To decrease rpm it moves the IAC valve in to reduce air past the throttle plate. A scan tool will read the ECM commands to the IAC valve in counts. Higher the counts the more the air is being allowed to pass the throttle plate (higher idle). Lower the counts the less the air is being allowed to pass the throttle plate (lower idle).

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. This is important ... the car needs to be in closed loop.



Connect scan tool. Verify it's in closed loop.



Put the car in park and wait a couple seconds for it to settle into a regular idle.



Look at the IAC counts (# and not % in TurboLink™)

or:
Loop status should not matter to get the minimum air rate correct. You do need to get the engine full warmed up. To set minimum air rate:

Warm the engine to full operating temps

  1. Turn engine off and then turn the key back to ON
  2. With the IAC connected, jumper pins A and B at the ALDL.
  3. Wait 30 seconds and unplug the IAC
  4. Remove the jumper at the ALDL
  5. Start the engine
  6. Adjust engine RPM to 500-550 in Drive using the throttle stop screw on the throttle body.
  7. Shut the engine off and plug the IAC back in.
  8. Restart the engine
  9. Set TPS to .40-.44 volt or whatever your chip manufacturer specifies
At full operating temps, the IAC counts on a scanmaster or scan tool should be somewhere in the 20-40 count range at idle. The IAC counts go up as you open the throttle (throttle follower function)

If you have a vacuum leak, you may not be able to obtain a low enough idle speed during the above procedure. Air is entering the intake manifold and not going through the throttle body.



If the IAC counts are between 10-40, then it's pretty close. Otherwise, do the following adjustment procedure, with a target number of around 20-25 counts.



The Minimum Air adjustment screw is on the driver’s side of the throttle body on the throttle linkage arm (often times misunderstood as the "idle adjustment screw". Pull off the gray rubber cable protecting the screw head.



Turn the screw in VERY small amounts (1/4 turn or so) to adjust the Minimum Air setting. Turning it counter clockwise closes the throttle blade and will normally raise the IAC counts. Turning it clockwise opens the throttle blade and will normally lower IAC counts.



Carefully monitor the IAC counts while making small adjustments to the Minimum Air setting screw. Be sure to allow the car to "settle" a bit after each adjustment a couple of seconds.


Once you have IAC counts adjusted to within your target range, adjust the TPS as described HERE.

Adjusting the TPS

Objective

To adjust the Throttle Position Sensor to recommended settings of between 0.40-0.46 volts at idle and between 4.5 and 4.8 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). This procedure should be performed after the minimum idle air settings are already made (via the IAC reset procedure).

Equipment Needed

The following tools are needed:

Flat bladed screwdriver

Scan tool (alternatively, a digital voltmeter)

Procedure

Hook up your scan tool where you can see the readings clearly from under the hood (alternatively, back probe the TPS blue wire with the positive lead of the meter and ground the meter's negative lead to the chassis or battery)



Turn the key ON and leave the engine OFF



Loosen the two screws on the side of the sensor (passenger side of the throttle body) enough to allow you to move the sensor in the "moon shaped" grooves.

Grab the "nose" of the sensor (where the wires plug in) and pull the sensor as far forward as possible and snug the screws enough that it holds the sensor in place (but can still be moved if nudged)



Check the idle reading and tap the nose of the sensor up or down until you get an idle reading of between 0.40 and 0.46 volts. Anything above about 0.5 volts will not be seen as "idle" by the ECM and can cause drivability problems.



Snug the screws down tight enough that the sensor doesn't move and have someone floor the throttle (make sure that the floor mat is out of the car...)



Check the reading and adjust until the sensor reads between 4.55 volts and 4.85 volts. The intent is to make sure that the reading is high enough that the ECM reads full WOT. The actual number doesn't really matter as long as it is with the range.



Recheck the idle reading to make sure that it hasn't changed. This can be a bit of a balancing act and require some very small adjustments and several iterations before both the high and low settings are where you want them to be.

Note: Occasionally a TPS will need the moon shaped grooves honed out a bit with a rat tail file to get enough adjustment, but normally the trick of moving the sensor as far forward as possible gives enough adjustment. Also, be very careful around the little roll pin that rests on the throttle lever, since it can bend or break.
 

Pittsburghkid

Displacement Replacement.
Thanks. I didnt realize setting the voltage was as easy as sliding it back and forth. I thought I had it set with a nice idle and it just wasn't getting enough voltage to the sensor from a bad wire or bad sensor itself.
 
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