Dynamic EFI EBL Flash System For GM Sequential V6 Boosted Engines....

That was set. I ran it without it turned on, and no change.

Changed the fans. I hadn't made it that far yet :D Only been running it for brief periods, I'm paranoid over breaking something with the way its running.

Wiring was really messed up to the MAP and TPS. Think I have it straightened out now. Whoever had this poor car before me really did a number on the harnesses.
 
Next easiest thing to try, assuming it is firing on all cylinders currently, is to set if for open loop idle and see how it runs.
 
Alright. What settings do I change for that? I looked around and don't want to hit the wrong things, lol. I've been up over 40 hours. Midnights and single day off, trying to maximize my time :D
 
Option Word 1, bit 2. The open loop idle lean limit is currently set for 13.5:1, can try lowering that a bit if it gets better but is still somewhat rough.
 
Wow,I was busy yesterday and just got to check this thread. Glad you got it running, hopefully got you wires sorted.

I would also try open loop for hahas and see how it idles.
 
Lobsterbak said:
Wiring was really messed up to the MAP and TPS. Think I have it straightened out now. Whoever had this poor car before me really did a number on the harnesses.
Click to expand...

Yes, as although the Code 34 for MAP LO is no longer prevalent, now you are showing two new malfunction codes in its' place that were not there during the first datalog. I would reinspect the harness...

7617c53e-724f-4f01-8060-68259a037329_zps1gxqpsz6.jpg
 
Cant see the data at work, but it looks like there are some wiring issues that need to be fixed.
 
I was having a simular issue with the IAT and TPS because the values were way off. I was trying to use a fast response IAC where the calibration had called for the original metal style one. I never was able to find the data as to what I needed to reset the values to match in turner pro.. Went back to old sensor and problem cleared up. I noticed that with EBL flash using TBI harness some sensors are wired on same power lead, so if one is way out it tends to make others throw codes. So I agree double check wiring and sensor application.
 
I got those codes cleared up. I was so loopy last night, my car looks like its getting an EKG with all the wires run all over it. I don't think the MAP sensor ever worked right, the way the guy had the 3 bar wired up o_O

Here's a log of it running in open loop. Seem's to behave better.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2ufl2k2y5tqc4og/third.dat?dl=0


What do you guys set your FP too, to start? I have a new accufab adjustable, just haven't put it on yet. Right now I have 43lbs with the line off.
 
Lobsterbak said:
Here's a log of it running in open loop. Seem's to behave better.

What do you guys set your FP too, to start? I have a new accufab adjustable, just haven't put it on yet. Right now I have 43lbs with the line off.
Click to expand...

Excellent, looks much better. Running a tad rich in Open Loop, seems to be averaging 12.9 air/fuel with a warmed up engine. I usually set my fuel pressure to 43.5 with the line off, then increase little by little if the datalog is showing a tad higher than 80% Duty Cycle at wide open throttle...
 
Lobsterbak said:
Also...TPS voltage. It was set a little high, I set it back to .42.
Click to expand...

The TPS base setting isn't critical on the EBL systems (as on the stock ECM). Anywhere between .4 and .8 volts works. It is often better to adjust the TPS to get a good range of voltage. Up to 4.5 volts is helpful.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
To explain a little about why the different screens of the WUD showed different MAP values. That is either one that looks valid or a reading of zero.

In this case the ECM noticed that the MAP reading was wrong when it sat at 0 volts. So it created a MAP value based on the TPS% and RPM (n-alpha mode). This n-alpha value is what the ECM was using, not the real MAP value of zero.

The SES/CEL didn't light as the malfunction code flag for it was un-checked.

As for the WUD, the main display uses this default n-alpha mode MAP value for the vertical gauge. This is why it looks OK.

While other areas of the WUD use the raw MAP voltage. This makes it easier to auto-scale and display the Trip vertical gauge along with other locations.

The Diagnostic display shows the raw sensor values, no defaulting on malfunctions. Which is way it is important to use this WUD screen when checking sensors.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
For some reason that Map Lo 34 malf came back. It's still reading voltage on the WUD o_O

I have to work in a few hours, tomorrow I'm going to tidy up all the wiring, recheck everything, and start over again. Wiring gremlins suck.

I put the adjustable regulator on it, set it to 43.5 line off, I notice it bleeds down within a minute to zero pounds. Is that normal with a Walboro pump? I never remember having that problem before the rebuild, but never really paid attention either.

I did take it for a quick cruise (then the 34 code kicked on), drives fine. Just idles really weird. I did put it back into Closed loop before Ieft. Didn't go very fast or far. I've got a log, it's kinda long but I'll post it up if you guys want to look at it.

I really, really appreciate all the help.
 
Lobsterbak said:
I put the adjustable regulator on it, set it to 43.5 line off, I notice it bleeds down within a minute to zero pounds. Is that normal with a Walboro pump? I never remember having that problem before the rebuild, but never really paid attention either.
Click to expand...

Disconnect the fuel regulator vacuum line source and turn the key to key-on without starting the engine, just to prime the fuel rails. Check to see if fuel comes out of that vacuum line, as this will indicate a bad diaphragm in the regulator. If that is okay, turn the key off, wait for pressure to go back down, and unbolt the fuel rail next and pull it upward so that the fuel injectors are up and out of their bosses on the intake manifold (so you can see the bottom of them). Turn the key to key-on to again to prime the fuel rails, but again do not start the engine. Check to see if fuel is coming out of any injectors (which may also explain the rich idle if you find a leak). If all is well there, check your connections, as well as the fuel lines all the way back to the tank. If there are no leaks, then the pump may be leaking in tank due to how it was installed, or you have a bad pump...

Lobsterbak said:
I did take it for a quick cruise (then the 34 code kicked on), drives fine. Just idles really weird. I did put it back into Closed loop before Ieft. Didn't go very fast or far. I've got a log, it's kinda long but I'll post it up if you guys want to look at it.
Click to expand...

It's gotta be somewhere in the harness, or the sensors. I can tell you that my GTA was converted from a manual to an automatic by the former owner before I purchased it and he made a complete mess of the wiring from the shifter, to trans, and to them ECM. Post the log up...
 
Last edited:
Alrighty, tomorrow I'll try to see if I have any fuel leaks. And rearrange the wiring and double check everything I repinned. Its probably something simple but this week I only have one day off, so I'm flying all over the place. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. If my inmates don't stress me out and make me exhausted tonight, I should be able to get a lot done. Then I wont be bugging you guys with problems that arent the ECMs fault, but my fault :D

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pogmgal6chnqjel/fourthrun.dat?dl=0

Heres the log, few minutes idling in the garage, quick trip up and down the driveway, then a few minutes later I took it up the road a mile or so. Thankfully it didn't leave me stranded, lol.
 
I had to crop the picture so you don't see the full screen of the WUD, as photobucket is not acting right for some reason. Anyways, I caught Malfunction Code 31 flash for a second or two during that datalog, but Malfunction Code 34 is constant again, and the Knock Count is reading 102 constantly up until the middle of the datalog, then suddenly it becomes PEGGED until the end, reading over 2000. The wiring definitely needs to be inspected, but get that fuel pressure issue dealt with asap as well...

malf_zps97orqvvw.jpg
 
Yep. Just ordered some new 2 and 4 wire cables, some new ECM pins from Rbob that I should've ordered more of in the first place, and some fancy connectors. Going to rewire all the crap that looks shady.

Then I'll be back to bug you guys with my stupidity over ECMs :D
 
Good luck, I completely redid and customized my engine and dash harness. I feel your upcoming pain, lol.
 
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