Do I have the "good" input shaft

Warrant

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
I have a 1990 200-4r

Bruce states
"There are two designs of input shafts stock. First is the "blind spline" type. With these, the planet splines kinda spline into the bearing journal . The other has a distinct "grove" between splines and journal. The "blind spline" one is stronger but their limit is about 600 ft lbs of torque"

I thought one shaft was early and other later, or did they both come in the 1990 year.

I plan for nothing more than 600HP/TQ, no transbrake, and lockup

Chris states a billet one for over 350HP and 400TQ, is this just for sales?:biggrin:

Think Ill need to upgrade? I am using a CK billet forward drum.
 
the late ones are better,however the chances of me becoming rich off selling you a billet input shaft are alot less than your chances of breaking one with 600hp/lbsft.Beware of the ones from TCS.The snap ring groove is in the wrong place and they will bind on the inner splines of the od ring gear if you dont modify it.
 
AFTER BREAKING TWO Factory Shafts - JUST BUY THE BILLET shaft and be done with it....... especially if you have a 9x11 or other hi-po torque convertor:redface:
 
Ever have sales on those input shafts chris?:biggrin:

I was hopin to pull this off on a somewhat of a budget yet keep it strong.

Maybe I shoulda just bought one built, going to be in this about $900 in just parts

I quickly read through your book chris, it looks like the only major hard parts upgrades you recommend are the billet forward drum (which I got) and the billet input shaft. (and ofcourse the hardened sun shell and stator) Was their anything else I missed?

AFTER BREAKING TWO Factory Shafts - JUST BUY THE BILLET shaft and be done with it....... especially if you have a 9x11 or other hi-po torque convertor:redface:

At what power levels?
 
first time was around 330 HP and 430 TQ
second time was roughly 370 HP and 450 TQ

remember power will ALWAYS find the weakest link........AND BREAK IT:frown:
 
Ever have sales on those input shafts chris?:biggrin:

I was hopin to pull this off on a somewhat of a budget yet keep it strong.

Maybe I shoulda just bought one built, going to be in this about $900 in just parts

I quickly read through your book chris, it looks like the only major hard parts upgrades you recommend are the billet forward drum (which I got) and the billet input shaft. (and ofcourse the hardened sun shell and stator) Was their anything else I missed?



At what power levels?
He had them on sale a few months back. They arent that expensive anyway. Id run one if i were you. When they break the engine rpm shoots up instantly. Could be a bad day for more than just the transmission.
 
I do have a rev limiter, but still no excuse.

If it breaks will it wreck other stuff in the tranny?

It is expensive for me as a high school student

What is a ALKY kit?
 
I do have a rev limiter, but still no excuse.

If it breaks will it wreck other stuff in the tranny?

It is expensive for me as a high school student

What is a ALKY kit?
Your rev limiter wont do **** in a situation like that. The engine acceleration will overshoot the limiter and it will bend valves or worse.
 
Your rev limiter wont do **** in a situation like that. The engine acceleration will overshoot the limiter and it will bend valves or worse.

I see.

I saw in your car specs that you runnin 10s, says you built your own 2004r, did you use a billet input shaft?

Im sure people have bad luck and break em, I also think many more use em are just find, which cases you never here it, only here the bad.
 
Top