Digital Dash source of 12v constant worked, but it now dead

GoldHawg

Active Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
I am trying to get my total resto (including Dakota Digital Retrotech dash) running, and when I wired everything up, I needed a source for constant 12v to power the new dash. I went with using the wires going into the stock dash where possible, cutting off the connector, then extending the wiring over to my mounting of the Dakota Digital brain box, which I mounted behind the glove box, as I found no room under drivers dash. I crimped the connectors and heat shrink over the connectors and have nice extended wires. Everything worked fine, and the DD dash looks great when you power up the dash....until. I was having a problem with my starter (now fixed) and everything went dead inside my car. No dome lights, no dash. But had all power every where else. I traced the issue to my constant 12v on the dakota digital brain box, and I no longer had 12v. I checked all the fuses, including the 5A instrument fuse, and its good. When I apply 12v (via my power probe) to the constant 12v at the DD box, I get lights in the car and the dash works again, and everything great. I know my connections were very nice, and I know I have a good fuse. Question is there any other sort of fuse or possible fusible link under the dash that would be associated with this low amp wire. I used the "Battery Voltage to Display (Memory)" from position U on the stock connector (see pics of connecter layout). Again it worked great initially until something blew somewhere. Where should I look? I really hate to pull out the DD dash, and you really can't get to the wires behind the dash. I suppose I could just get another 12v constant but I can't help but want to figure out why this isn't working (and potentially what else may be on that circuit).
Ok gurus--what should I do?
 

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If the "memory" circuit is dead did you check the CIG/CLK fuse? That's what powers the memory orange wire.
Fusible link B powers that part of the fuse panel, it also goes through the bulkhead C100 connector under the wiper motor from the starter location.
Make sure the 20A fuse has power first easiest test.
 
If the "memory" circuit is dead did you check the CIG/CLK fuse? That's what powers the memory orange wire.
Fusible link B powers that part of the fuse panel, it also goes through the bulkhead C100 connector under the wiper motor from the starter location.
Make sure the 20A fuse has power first easiest test.
Helpful...thanks.
 
If the "memory" circuit is dead did you check the CIG/CLK fuse? That's what powers the memory orange wire.
Fusible link B powers that part of the fuse panel, it also goes through the bulkhead C100 connector under the wiper motor from the starter location.
Make sure the 20A fuse has power first easiest test.
Helpful...thanks. I'm not sure about fusible link B...is that under the hood? I did do the Casper's positive cable upgrade where I moved all the underhood fusible links to the fender and I've checked all of them and they're good. Is this fusible link B part of those ( I have 5 wires) or somewhere else? I did check all the fuses on the box; I'll go back and double check that one.
 
It's on the starter main terminal, that you just had an issue with one of those rings. The dual wire one I believe.
That's the only reason I mentioned it.
If you relocated it and checked them it's probably the CIG/CLK fuse or a connection.
The wire from the fusible links goes to the C100 bulkhead main connector into the fuse panel, If the CIG/CLK fuse is good but no power on either side of the fuse, put the meter or probe on the BAT terminals in the fuse panel they should be live at all times like the CIG/CLK fuse.
 
It's on the starter main terminal, that you just had an issue with one of those rings. The dual wire one I believe.
That's the only reason I mentioned it.
If you relocated it and checked them it's probably the CIG/CLK fuse or a connection.
The wire from the fusible links goes to the C100 bulkhead main connector into the fuse panel, If the CIG/CLK fuse is good but no power on either side of the fuse, put the meter or probe on the BAT terminals in the fuse panel they should be live at all times like the CIG/CLK fuse.
Thanks much. You were right, it was the cig/clk fuse. I went thru them too fast the first time and missed it. I put a new one in, and all well. I went ahead and bumped the engine over just to see if that might blow it again and no problem. I suspected it was my carelessness with the gear-reduction starter; your guidance took me right to the problem! Thanks again!
 
Well--I'm back. After success yesterday, I come out to the shop tonite and find the car has no dome light, so I know I've got no 12v constant at the box. I go over to the fuse box and the 20A fuse is blown. Further when I apply 12v to the Dakota Digital box, it immediately trips the internal circuit breaker in my power probe, so I can't get everything back on w/my power probe which I could do last night (before I changed the fuse, which afterwards everything was fine). Now I take the fuse out and try touching the two terminals in the fuse block for the cig/clock fuse w/o fully pushing it back in and I immediately get a spark, so I pulled it back. Nothing has changed since I shut my shop down last night but clearly there is a short somewhere. salvage V6, any counsel on what else is on that circuit? Especially in the dash area?
 
Lots of things, first is the cigar lighter in the dash socket pull that wire off the back first, also the trunk light wire can break and short out in the trunk, footwell lights also, dome light, power antenna relay power, engine compartment light and wire can short out too. And since there's a lot more stuff it could be here's the two pages list from the manual for stuff on that fuse.
IMG_0389ab.jpg
IMG_0390a.jpg
 
Thanks so much...this should be exactly what I need to systematically chase it down. Probably this weekend. Thanks again!
 
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