Did I install this cam sensor correct?

I’m had my engine apart to change cam, springs, chain, water pump and a bunch of other things.
When I try to start it on a good battery it cranks like the battery is low and has no spark. I pulled the plugs and I don’t smell gas on them so I’m assume the fuel injectors are not firing. Now I did prime the oil pump and have great oil pressure. When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump prime the rail for 5 seconds. I could have sworn I installed this cam sensor correctly. And it was running before I started this job.
This is my first cam sensor install. I set it 25 degrees past TDC and I used the cam alignment tool with the led light.
Please see that pic. The red circle is the window in the wheel.



Staff member
if the led just turned on when you removed the cap you' re on the wrong side of the slot , in your pic sensor in cap would be reading the right edge , left edge through center of screw should align with the dimple at top of pic , your pic shows the right edge is in alignment

you need to put cap back on turn the base clockwise till lamp goes out then slowly turn base counterclockwise until lamp just turn on

you also need to verify that motor is at 25ATDC on the #1 compression stroke or you could be 180* out even with the cap on correct side of slot


Bad Medicine Racing
Injectors will still work even if cam sensor is incorrectly installed. They just fire at the wrong time. The slow turning over sounds like you left the main ground wire from the battery to the block off.
Hi guys/girls.
I thank you all for the input. I did another cam sensor install. I set the crank for 25 degrees past TDC on compression stroke. And I took my Kirban’s FPR off and replaced with my working stock unit. And I put another 2 gallons of 93 gasoline in just to be safe. So now when I crank it the engine pops and stumbles like she really wants to start but never catches. I’m missing something. The only thing that I actually don’t have installed is the pcv valve and the EGR/FPR vacuum hoses hooked up because I’m waiting for the pcv valve to come in as well as the correct ID vacuum line to come in. But I have the vacuum block as well as the FPR/egr vacuum capped off just for now. So there no vacuum nipples and exposed. It should start. I even went over the fuel injector harness to make sure the numbers lined up with the correct cylinders. I double checked the same for the spark plug wires.
If anyone had a trick up their sleeve please post up. I have a new comp cam, lifters,springs, and pushrods so I can’t keep cranking the engine like this because I haven’t been able to go through the break in process. I primed it with a drill and I have the break in oil in there but I don’t want to wear my lobes by cranking it without it starting. And I also noticed the battery cables getting very warm after only 10-20 seconds of trying to start it. Then they cool off after I stop cranking it. I’ll take any advice.
Btw the fuel rail does prime when I turn the key into ignition. I hear the pump prime and the rail is full of fuel.
Thank y’all
I checked the compression it was 150 even across the board.
I triple checked the spark plug wires
The cam sensor I don’t know. I followed the guy who makes all the GN YouTube how to’s and I aimed the notch towards the front headlight, then with the engine at 25 degrees ATDC on the compression stroke (I used the crank pulley sticker that comes with the Casper’s cam alignment tool to measure the 25 degrees and lined it up with the zero on the timing marks). Then I installed the cam sensor cap and turned 1/4 turn clockwise then turned it very slowly counter clockwise until the red light first came on. Then I tightened it down making sure it didn’t move.

The crank sensor is plugged in and secure.
I’m starting to think my battery went south. But I just bought it In April of 2018. But I did go into the hospital 3 times with that wtc 911 firefighter related lung disease and I spent 3-4 weeks each time I go. (That’s why this job took me 6 months to complete because my health is shot) But I always tried to keep the battery charged. I’m gunna take it to advance auto and have them do a test on it.
But I do appreciate the help. I don’t know anyone in Florida all my friends are on NY.
Make sure you read the instructions for the Casper’s cap. You set your balancer to 0 then set it with the led. If you’re trying to set it using the led at 25 degrees it’s not gonna work. It sounds like this is your issue.

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Sorry reread your post and realized it wasn’t you that posted the led cap info. Still think you’re fighting cam sensor. If it’s not set right it will cause engine to bog making it seem like a battery issue. There is a good pic of the cap position on the Casper’s instructions. HTH

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Addicted to BOOST
Sounds like the cam sensor is 180' out, mixed with some major vacuum leaks where you said there is no PCV valve in it yet.
It will start 180' out, but it sounds like the battery is dead.
Set the engine to #1 TDC compression and put the cam sensor in like in the picture, no test lights multi-meters or other tools needed . That's how the factory did it when they built the cars. The factory lined up the tabs, I have found this to be exactly 25' after TDC. At least it is with a new timing chain.
I've set them both lined up perfectly and as in the picture and there is absolutely no difference in how the car runs.