After pulling my radiator on my '87 GN today, prior to which I had searched and posted for some detailed information about "How-to" do it, I wrote this procedure up about how I did it. Hopefully, it might help someone else who is doing the same thing I did for the first time or who may have a TR that has never had the radiator out of it.
My car is an '87 GN with Air Conditioning, the stock radiator, and it has a Mease 24 row Stock Location Intercooler (plus some other stuff none of which was in the way like the I/C was) which really restricts room for getting to some stuff.
Regardless, I got the old radiator out of the car in about 40 minutes. It should take less if your fittings/hoses are easily removed (two of mine were stuck, one rusted so bad that the fitting would not rotate on the metal end of the hose) and if you have the stock intercooler in the car. I also have an AlkyControl Alcohol Injection system in the car (works GREAT!) and so I had to work around the plumbing for it.
I can not stress strongly enough - work safely and carefully and do not get in a hurry. Pulling the radiator out once disconnected should be fairly easy but you do not want to damage any fins if you can avoid it. Mine was really gunked up and had a couple of very tiny leaks so I decided to recore it with a high efficiency core. Yours may only need a good cleaning but either way, just take your time, follow the instructions where applicable and you'll get it out in short order. You may also want to consider replacing the radiator hoses and thermostat at this time. Just food for thought.
Good luck! Here's the procedure I used today... (I also have this saved in a Word Document so if you want a copy just send me your email address and I'll send it to you.)
’87 Buick GN Radiator Removal and Reinstallation
NOTE: Even the smallest amount of Glycol Antifreeze is deadly to animals, yet they are drawn to the smell and taste of it. Therefore, do NOT allow any spills to occur while doing radiator/cooling system work but if a spill does occur, be sure to clean and flush the area thoroughly. Old glycol coolant should be disposed of properly (according to your local code) and not saved for reuse unless the radiator it came out of is in clean, like-new condition. The extra cost for new coolant/antifreeze is worth the price versus the risk of putting dirty coolant back into a new, clean radiator. Doing so may immediately begin fouling tubes. Before beginning the removal process, disconnect the negative Battery cable and make sure the radiator/cooling system has been given sufficient time to cool if recently driven. Open the radiator cap SLOWLY to remove pressure (if any) and verify that the coolant is indeed cool to the touch before opening the drain on the radiator. Failure to do so may result in severe burns or worse.
1. After carefully opening the radiator cap and making sure the coolant is cool enough and the system is depressured to allow work to begin, place an appropriate sized container (I used a clean 5-gallon bucket) that will hold the entire cooling system’s contents beneath the drain cock located on the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side of the car. The drain cock is vertically placed and rotates counterclockwise to open. A small section of rubber hose can be used to direct the coolant into the container if needed.
2. Open the drain cock and ensure that the drain is not plugged. If the drain is plugged, you might be able to insert a small wire up into the open cock and clear the plug. If this is not successful, you will have to drain the system by carefully disconnecting the lower radiator hose and then clear the drain when the radiator is out of the car.
3. Disconnect the overflow line from the radiator. Drain the coolant via the disconnected hose and empty the overflow reservoir. Secure the hose.
4. While the coolant is draining, remove the mounting hardware for the A/C lines that run across the top rear (nearest the engine) portion of the radiator support plate. Remove the outer nuts first and then gently pry the two large looped steel pieces that secure the A/C lines away to allow access to remove the studs from the radiator support plate. This will then free up the top tabs of the electric fan. The electric fan will not have to be removed to pull the radiator.
5. Remove the top radiator support cover by removing the 5 bolts (two on each side and one near the middle) that hold the support cover in place. Set all hardware and the support cover aside for reinstallation later.
6. Loosen the top radiator hose clamp, remove the hose from the radiator, and then pull it out of the way.
7. Loosen the top hose for the oil cooler from the backside of the radiator and prop it out of the way.
8. Loosen and set aside the two lines for the transmission oil cooler. Break these at the fittings closest to the radiator. A small amount of transmission oil may leak out and will need to be contained. If you are replacing the radiator, remove this lines from the transmission cooler connections on the front of the radiator after the radiator is pulled from the car.
9. The lower oil cooler hose fitting on the back of the radiator may be a little more stubborn than the top. (Or, it might even be rusted, preventing the fitting from rotating apart from the metal hose end, as mine was. More on this in Step 10 if this is the case.) Loosen this fitting and pull the line out of the way if possible. Oil will seep out of the cooler fitting so be prepared to clean the area up.
10. IF the lower oil cooler hose fitting will not allow the fitting to rotate separate from the metal end of the hose, you will have to remove the hose from the oil filter boss by loosening the fitting and then working the hose up and near the radiator, finally pulling the radiator with the hose still attached (my own experience today). You can then remove the hose from the radiator when it is out of the car and either replace it or as I did, get the fitting loosened up with some persuasion and some WD-40.
11. Once the coolant has stopped running out of the radiator drain, loosen the lower radiator hose and pull it out of the way.
12. Remove the radiator by lifting it carefully straight upward from the lower radiator support. Take great care to not catch the short Transmission cooler lines on the A/C lines and be especially careful to not damage any fins on nearby surfaces.
13. Finish draining the radiator (and coolers) if needed into an appropriate container. Perform the work desired on the old radiator or begin preparations on the new one to go into the car. The lines for the Transmission Cooler will need to be relocated to the new radiator if the stock unit is being replaced. If you are not using a radiator with an internal oil/transmission oil cooler, you can use this time to mount up the external coolers as desired.
14. Once work is complete on the old radiator, or if you have the new one ready for installation, install the radiator in reverse order as above. If you are reusing the stock unit, ensure it is blown clear of any fluid and that the internal coolers have been blown clear and are not holding any solvent or old fluids. Failure to do so might allow contaminants to enter either your cooling system, engine lubrication system or the transmission fluid.
My car is an '87 GN with Air Conditioning, the stock radiator, and it has a Mease 24 row Stock Location Intercooler (plus some other stuff none of which was in the way like the I/C was) which really restricts room for getting to some stuff.
Regardless, I got the old radiator out of the car in about 40 minutes. It should take less if your fittings/hoses are easily removed (two of mine were stuck, one rusted so bad that the fitting would not rotate on the metal end of the hose) and if you have the stock intercooler in the car. I also have an AlkyControl Alcohol Injection system in the car (works GREAT!) and so I had to work around the plumbing for it.
I can not stress strongly enough - work safely and carefully and do not get in a hurry. Pulling the radiator out once disconnected should be fairly easy but you do not want to damage any fins if you can avoid it. Mine was really gunked up and had a couple of very tiny leaks so I decided to recore it with a high efficiency core. Yours may only need a good cleaning but either way, just take your time, follow the instructions where applicable and you'll get it out in short order. You may also want to consider replacing the radiator hoses and thermostat at this time. Just food for thought.
Good luck! Here's the procedure I used today... (I also have this saved in a Word Document so if you want a copy just send me your email address and I'll send it to you.)
’87 Buick GN Radiator Removal and Reinstallation
NOTE: Even the smallest amount of Glycol Antifreeze is deadly to animals, yet they are drawn to the smell and taste of it. Therefore, do NOT allow any spills to occur while doing radiator/cooling system work but if a spill does occur, be sure to clean and flush the area thoroughly. Old glycol coolant should be disposed of properly (according to your local code) and not saved for reuse unless the radiator it came out of is in clean, like-new condition. The extra cost for new coolant/antifreeze is worth the price versus the risk of putting dirty coolant back into a new, clean radiator. Doing so may immediately begin fouling tubes. Before beginning the removal process, disconnect the negative Battery cable and make sure the radiator/cooling system has been given sufficient time to cool if recently driven. Open the radiator cap SLOWLY to remove pressure (if any) and verify that the coolant is indeed cool to the touch before opening the drain on the radiator. Failure to do so may result in severe burns or worse.
1. After carefully opening the radiator cap and making sure the coolant is cool enough and the system is depressured to allow work to begin, place an appropriate sized container (I used a clean 5-gallon bucket) that will hold the entire cooling system’s contents beneath the drain cock located on the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side of the car. The drain cock is vertically placed and rotates counterclockwise to open. A small section of rubber hose can be used to direct the coolant into the container if needed.
2. Open the drain cock and ensure that the drain is not plugged. If the drain is plugged, you might be able to insert a small wire up into the open cock and clear the plug. If this is not successful, you will have to drain the system by carefully disconnecting the lower radiator hose and then clear the drain when the radiator is out of the car.
3. Disconnect the overflow line from the radiator. Drain the coolant via the disconnected hose and empty the overflow reservoir. Secure the hose.
4. While the coolant is draining, remove the mounting hardware for the A/C lines that run across the top rear (nearest the engine) portion of the radiator support plate. Remove the outer nuts first and then gently pry the two large looped steel pieces that secure the A/C lines away to allow access to remove the studs from the radiator support plate. This will then free up the top tabs of the electric fan. The electric fan will not have to be removed to pull the radiator.
5. Remove the top radiator support cover by removing the 5 bolts (two on each side and one near the middle) that hold the support cover in place. Set all hardware and the support cover aside for reinstallation later.
6. Loosen the top radiator hose clamp, remove the hose from the radiator, and then pull it out of the way.
7. Loosen the top hose for the oil cooler from the backside of the radiator and prop it out of the way.
8. Loosen and set aside the two lines for the transmission oil cooler. Break these at the fittings closest to the radiator. A small amount of transmission oil may leak out and will need to be contained. If you are replacing the radiator, remove this lines from the transmission cooler connections on the front of the radiator after the radiator is pulled from the car.
9. The lower oil cooler hose fitting on the back of the radiator may be a little more stubborn than the top. (Or, it might even be rusted, preventing the fitting from rotating apart from the metal hose end, as mine was. More on this in Step 10 if this is the case.) Loosen this fitting and pull the line out of the way if possible. Oil will seep out of the cooler fitting so be prepared to clean the area up.
10. IF the lower oil cooler hose fitting will not allow the fitting to rotate separate from the metal end of the hose, you will have to remove the hose from the oil filter boss by loosening the fitting and then working the hose up and near the radiator, finally pulling the radiator with the hose still attached (my own experience today). You can then remove the hose from the radiator when it is out of the car and either replace it or as I did, get the fitting loosened up with some persuasion and some WD-40.
11. Once the coolant has stopped running out of the radiator drain, loosen the lower radiator hose and pull it out of the way.
12. Remove the radiator by lifting it carefully straight upward from the lower radiator support. Take great care to not catch the short Transmission cooler lines on the A/C lines and be especially careful to not damage any fins on nearby surfaces.
13. Finish draining the radiator (and coolers) if needed into an appropriate container. Perform the work desired on the old radiator or begin preparations on the new one to go into the car. The lines for the Transmission Cooler will need to be relocated to the new radiator if the stock unit is being replaced. If you are not using a radiator with an internal oil/transmission oil cooler, you can use this time to mount up the external coolers as desired.
14. Once work is complete on the old radiator, or if you have the new one ready for installation, install the radiator in reverse order as above. If you are reusing the stock unit, ensure it is blown clear of any fluid and that the internal coolers have been blown clear and are not holding any solvent or old fluids. Failure to do so might allow contaminants to enter either your cooling system, engine lubrication system or the transmission fluid.
