data logs for evaulation

buickruss

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Here are a couple of recent data logs. I think battery voltage is somewhat low. Any other comments? first run was about 22psi and second at 24psi.
Wideband selected is LC1. New O2. New razors kit. This is n street tires so there is some spin early in the run
 

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Here are a couple of recent data logs. I think battery voltage is somewhat low. Any other comments? first run was about 22psi and second at 24psi.
Wideband selected is LC1. New O2. New razors kit. This is n street tires so there is some spin early in the run

I think your files are bad I could not view them on my phone or laptop.
 
I was able to view the files. Here is just some opinion based on my experience and a similar combo to yours, take for what it is worth.

On the second run, you have too much knock. A lot of wheel spin knock which you want to avoid, but you also have knock later in the run that you need to tune out. Turn up the alky. It takes time to get the alky to gas in the right place. I also don't fully trust the LC-1. I find I have a .3 to .4 discrepancy between the MAFT Pro and the PL(PL reads richer) with the LC-1 reading. It is likely a ground offset that I have not been able to fix, but I have not seen similar reports with say the PLX as I have with other LC-1 users. So far, my car runs best running around 9.8 - 10 to 1 reading on the PL. Currently running 26 lbs of boost in first and second, 25 in third.
My car likes timing to be 19 in first and second, and 16.5 (knocked it down in the mid 4000 rpms because I would get an occasion knock blip at 4700 rpm, probably the HP peak) to 17 in third. I have also verified that the timing is correct with a timing light.
I would want a tighter convertor with your combo. Probably want to be operating 4500 to 5000 rpm at full throttle. I am currently running the stock convertor. I have an older 2800 9.5" from Dave that I am going to send back to get tightened up. He is going to modify it to his 3021, but for now I am going to keep playing with the stock one, as it works well with the 44. My 44 is from bison with a garret housing, so it spools like a rocket. If the stock convertor flashed around 4400-4500 rpm, but all else remained the same, it would be perfect I think. Currently cutting a 1.65 60 ft, I have to work on traction. I can hold as much boost as I want on the line, but even with the stock convertor, I will roll out a few feet and break them loose at the strip if not careful. Point is, a lot of unused potential with the stock convertor, and slip is 8 percent at the big end at 5100 rpm. When I put Dave's 3021 convertor back in some time later, it will be interesting to see the comparison.
Your voltage does look a little low. I am running a volt booster from Caspers. I converted it to use a 2 bar MAP instead of the TPS. It is easier to tune around the voltage increase that way. Still working on smoothing out the fuel delivery off the line. It helps power/spoolup significantly to get it right, especially with the stock convertor.
 
In park car at idle battery terminal voltage is 14.4........powerlogger is showing 13.4.. I assume the powerlogger should show the 14.4VDC

Do I have a voltage drop/bad ground/poor connection somewhere? or is this normal?
 
PL reads ECM voltage which will read lower than the voltage at the battery post or alternator post. I always showed about 13.6 at idle and 12.9 at full throttle on PL prior to the volt booster. The idle check you did is about normal, just seems a little low under full throttle. Hard to say what the problem may be, could be the grounds all need to be cleaned up, alternator could be weak under load, lead from the alternator to the battery may be in need of replacement ... Electrical problems are not my forte, hopefully someone knowledgeable will chime in.
 
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