Cutting Out At ~14 PSI Boost - Suspect Fuel Pump
- Thread starter Terbro
- Start date
I just went and checked it out, and it is connected to the vacuum line, and electrical connection is intact.
Are you saying I need to do something else specific to the Powerlogger, or...is it just not working for whatever reason?
dynoman
Well-Known Member
Yes , you need the signal wire from the map sensor (green) to #2 terminal on the powerlogger board
Man...got a hair confused there for bit. I was thinking you meant I needed to connect the MAP signal wire back into the new PL circuit board that I just installed in the ECM. I was definitely doing some head scratching, all the while looking at the "PowerLogger I/O Connections" page that comes with the kit. Where the hell are those connectors? Definitely clued in when reading on the PL MAP connection here: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm and seeing that terminal block...gave me a bit o' inspiration to look back into the box.
Didn't see that before! And now I know the reason for the other cable. I thought it was an alternative to a USB connector to the PC.I sure do love learning! Anyway...I must say I'm attracted to the more simple method of just tee'ing into the MAP signal, and not getting into his more involved wiring...hoping that the signal will be accurate.
But it sounds like I need to upgrade to a 3-bar MAP? I'm currently at 17 psi, and hope to be going higher soon. Kirbans...$80!!! Or can I get away with the OEM MAP for now?
Also...anyone analyzing my PL run should notice that I did have some hesitation as it shifted into *3rd* (at frame 561). Basically, once it did, it stayed put at 4K rpms, and obviously flat powerwise. So...still some issues to address.
dynoman
Well-Known Member
3 bar map = yes , if you plan on logging above 15psi . Also when you hook up the map to the powerlogger put the green wire on #2 (I2) on the powerlogger I/O , connection board . That will be your only wire you need to add . Splice into the green wire on the MAP sensor connector and run that to the powerlogger I/O board . Good luck , Sam
Piece o' cake.
And just ordered a 3 bar MAP sensor (Delphi) from my local Advance store ($55 w/my account); should be in Friday. Minutes later, I found what's probably the same thing on Ebay for $39 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/180857685098?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true Could cancel it, but...that's okay.
So, I'll get that all in place, and then work on figuring out what's up with that 3rd gear power loss (unless someone has any ideas now).
Are you seeing something in the PL data that's inspiring your thought on the MAF? It's a 3.5" LT1 MAF.
Allegedly, this is an all new motor ($3K just for the base rebuild, not counting the forged crank on the invoice)...with less than 1K miles on it. I'm not going to get into it, but again, I don't trust Nick anymore. But let me just say that I wouldn't be shocked at this point if I learned that he didn't install new springs. I've caught him now in several instances of not putting in parts (the *transmission*!!!, torque convertor, and most recently the fuel pump) that were supposed to be new or upgraded. If I learn it's the springs, I will be upset.
Does the fact it's occurring in 3rd gear give us a clue? Is it something to do with the load?
I just reviewed the invoice "UP GRADE HEADS W/NEW VALVES, PORT WORK" a separate line item (in addition to the $3K engine rebuild) for $325. So very hopefully I have new springs. But there's a separate line item for the DW fuel pump as well for $250. That was confirmed as - didn't happen.
Neither. I took a photo of the top of the tank when I dropped it. It obviously hadn't been opened in years. And it was a Walbro 255 lph (stock replacement FP). Attached is the photo.
Attachments
Nick flat-out lied. He and I had *several* conversations about it when we were still talking. We must have had 5 conversations about the cutting out issue...I spoke several times of how it was behaving exactly like it wasn't getting enough fuel. He didn't think it was the fuel, emphasizing how he only installs DW300's in builds like mine. He kept saying that he thought it might be a different issue, which was partially true (those that I discovered, which he should have, being that there's a line item on the invoice "R&R, tune as needed" - $1,000").
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Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
First step would be to pull the valve covers and look close at the springs to see if any are broke. You should also pull the rocker shaft to check it for cracks. There are on the engine valve spring testers. Best would be to pull a few off and test them with a mini valve spring pressure tester or bring it to a machine shop.
Thanks for the tip. Just found a local Speed Shop that has an on-the-engine spring tester. The guy says if I pull the covers, he'll do it on the spot. Personally, I'm betting I do have new springs, but I suppose it's something that should be checked - to eliminate as a possibility.
In the log you posted the
Maf is unstable for a duration of time .. I only glanced at the log file.. I also saw a bit of knock .. There is a flat line in RPM while TPS is maxed .. I would just check the springs and maf to be sure
I'll go tomorrow to the Speed Shop and have the springs tested. And is there a way to have them test lift to verify what cam I have? Shortly after the motor was assembled, I asked Nick what cam he had put in, and he wasn't sure. He thought he had put in (or had put in; I'm not clear in how much work he actually did himself) a 206/206 flat tappet, but was unsure. So, I'd like to verify what cam I have, if that's possible by rotating the crank and measuring lift. Can such a thing be done at the top of the heads? 'Cause tomorrow would be the time if so.
