Crankshaft Sensor Install In Driveway?

salvageV6

Daily Driver
How difficult is this to do on ramps in the driveway?
Car has mis-fire worse when cold, no codes, runs pretty well warmed up.
Which slot do you use the one near the wiring/socket or the one near the end of the sensor?
Have the new bracket and bolt as well.
I'm figuring about 2 days, lots of oil, no room to work, broken connectors to fix etc. etc. etc. :rolleyes:
IMG_0488.JPEG
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
Really not to bad if you don't mind lying on your back. Like Dylan said "less than 15 minutes". Use penetration oil on the bolts and let soak overnight. The upper and lower bolts are 1/2". The bolt at the bottom of the assembly is 5/16". When reassembled, make sure the trigger wheel fins do not hit the sensor by using 1-1/8" socket on the crank nut to rotate the tone ring to check for any contacts on the sensor. You may have to loosen the upper and lower 1/2" bolts to rotate the sensor assembly slightly. The ring tone should pass threw the sensor gap closest to the wiring. Tighten down the 1/2" bolts. Loosen the 5/16" bolt at the bottom of the sensor assembly. This will allow the sensor to slide back and forth. Stick the 0.025 feeler gauge ( I used a Gift Card cut in a long strip (0.022"), it bends easily so you can push it all the way through between the trigger wheel and the fins, then push the sensor tight to the gauge. While pushing the sensor, tighten down the 5/16" bolt. Remember to remove the breaker bar & socket before starting the engine !!!
 

salvageV6

Daily Driver
Sounds easy enough, looks like the reluctor ring in Ed's pictures is going through the outside slot farthest from the wiring connector? Now I'm confused. o_O
Remembering to remove the socket on the balancer bolt is probably the most important step. :eek:
I can't believe that little bolt has held that thing pinched in place for 35 years. :p
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
I have a Hot Air car so the crank position sensor location may be different than the intercooled cars. Here is a pic of an 85 crank sensor showing the slot used for the trigger wheel (slot in which the gift card is at). Others may want to verify.
Crank Sensor and Plastic Gauge Adjustment sm.jpg
 

salvageV6

Daily Driver
Nice Pic. funky looking sensor. I'll double check the instructions from the NTK sensor I also bought along with the GM Delco one. I bought this car used so I'm not sure exactly which one is in there and what that install looks like, probably the original though.
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
FYI - Torque Specs.
Tighten the pedestal mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
Tighten the sensor pinch bolt to 30 inch lbs. while maintaining light pressure on the sensor and interrupter ring.
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
Sounds easy enough, looks like the reluctor ring in Ed's pictures is going through the outside slot farthest from the wiring connector? Now I'm confused. o_O
Remembering to remove the socket on the balancer bolt is probably the most important step. :eek:
I can't believe that little bolt has held that thing pinched in place for 35 years. :p
I stand corrected. 86/87 through the outside slot.
 

salvageV6

Daily Driver
It's a "frame of reference" problem for me, the install instructions don't say where the "inner" part of the sensor is, I assumed it to be the connector end and of course it isn't, it starts at the first slot other end where it's molded.
Casper's pictures sure are nice and explanatory, thanks for the clarification and posting of the link. :cool:
Hopefully doing it twice won't be an issue. o_O
 

~JM~

Wrinkled Member
If the new sensor & old sensor resemble each other, I'd be inclined to use the existing mounting bracket. Just loosen the pinch bolt & swap.
 

salvageV6

Daily Driver
Going out to start it now. Casper's instructions are great as they explain the differences over the years with them.
Just the width of the sensor in the bracket for the 1987 cars.
Yea if it's a newer sensor I'm just gonna swap it. Hopefully the crank is running straight and it was just the oil that took it out after 252,000 miles, all I need is another 25K-50K and I can afford a new car.... :rolleyes:
 

salvageV6

Daily Driver
Well it was a newer sensor in there, and just my luck an interference fit so it broke removing it since the gap in the reluctor ring still was in the groove not allowing easy removal. Got the new one in there by removing a bit of one edge of the sensor with a file and slightly moving the reluctor ring with a pry bar, couldn't budge the bracket to gain clearance that way, but it finally popped into place :eek:
Used the .015" Schweppes green plastic 2 liter bottle for a gauge which had a nice curve to it and worked out.
Kinda sucks with the stock intercooler and bracketry in there no room to work and you have to move the alternator wire loom out of the way and hang the sensor wire on the power steering hard line to keep it from dangling into your work area.
The good news is I didn't forget to remove the 1/2" drive and socket from the crank bolt, the bad news is I did forget to remove the 1/2" drive and socket from the alternator bolt I used to turn the reluctor ring with. It didn't go too far luckily. :rolleyes:
Didn't help the misfire however, redid the IACV, checked the plugs and wires, only broke one. Runs a bit better warmed up might try a spare coil pack and module tomorrow but I doubt that's it. Coil pack ohm'd out ok.
Might have to get out the suitcase laptop and hook up the power logger, that may take more time than throwing parts at it. :oops:
 

JayC

T6P.Com/TB.com Administrator/Webmaster
Staff member
Cut a couple of strips from a plastic soda bottle and use them to set up clearances so you dont wipe out your new crank sensor.
 
Top