crankcase vacuum pumps

Some of the original pics are not working in this thread due to age however I get the idea and I am interested in the block off plate with tapped vent in the front cover. Do any vendors sell this? I like this idea if it works.
 
I was hoping there might be some useful information but you know since you're a long timer as well how those types of posts work.
 
I know its not a turbo car but this is pretty slick.
 

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I dig the crankcase breather tapped in the valve cover which got me thinking.... with a ton of us running VC breathers, does anyone vendors sell a crankcase breather setup? I like the tapped plate in the side of the front cover. Access would be a PITA though...
 
I know its not a turbo car but this is pretty slick.
From what I can tell, that's no more than an added drain back to the pan.
To be of any use, it should be at the lower end of the valve cover, and going to the back of the pan.
For anyone contemplating a vac pump...Use care with how much vac you introduce to the system. Excessive vac will strip the cyl walls, and wreak havoc with the wrist pins. BTST.
 
I run a electric pump from a earlier model Corvette. I have sealed breathers on my valve covers that are both rooted under the coil pack to a T fitting, from the T fitting it is routed to my vacuum pump underneath the car on the driver side close to the headlight. The system doesn't pull enough vacuum to warrant a catch can before the pump, but it works well enough to vent any extra crankcase pressure. I used to have a catch can under the hood with this system, but it didn't grab a dime of oil, so I got rid of the catch can and routed it directly to the pump. Which to me is x1000 times better, because I can't stand the smell of oil vapors coming from the K&N on the catch can into the interior of the car. The line coming off of my electric pump has a line which is routed into my frame and atmosphered there.

The link below shows the pumps you can use with the wiring harness Racetronix makes for the system. The rest is just a set of sealed breathers and a trip to Home Depot for rubber lines and a plastic T.
http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=CEPH

All the parts
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Tools needed

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Heat up the base with a heat gun and remove the lid

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Remove the diapharm seal and spring. If you don't, oil will shoot up your oil dipstick all over your engine compartment.... Ask me how I know.

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Next remove the foam to give more vacuum

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Seal it back up and silicone the base to seal it all up, no leaks.

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drill a hole in the center of each valve cover for a grommet to fit in when your breather is in.

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This is what it looks installed on the car. Both valve covers run to a T fitting underneath the coil pack, then one line to the pump.

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I mount it in front of the driver's side headlight and run the line from the T fitting to the pump. The pump has a in and out port. The out port I run a line under the car into the frame so I don't smell anything.

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I actually tried to see if I can get any vacuum out of the electric smog pump. It’s not a bad setup plus racetronics makes a wiring harness so it’s all plug and play .
 
I run a electric pump from a earlier model Corvette. I have sealed breathers on my valve covers that are both rooted under the coil pack to a T fitting, from the T fitting it is routed to my vacuum pump underneath the car on the driver side close to the headlight. The system doesn't pull enough vacuum to warrant a catch can before the pump, but it works well enough to vent any extra crankcase pressure. I used to have a catch can under the hood with this system, but it didn't grab a dime of oil, so I got rid of the catch can and routed it directly to the pump. Which to me is x1000 times better, because I can't stand the smell of oil vapors coming from the K&N on the catch can into the interior of the car. The line coming off of my electric pump has a line which is routed into my frame and atmosphered there.

The link below shows the pumps you can use with the wiring harness Racetronix makes for the system. The rest is just a set of sealed breathers and a trip to Home Depot for rubber lines and a plastic T.
http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=CEPH

All the parts
View attachment 362027

Tools needed

View attachment 362028

Heat up the base with a heat gun and remove the lid

View attachment 362029

Remove the diapharm seal and spring. If you don't, oil will shoot up your oil dipstick all over your engine compartment.... Ask me how I know.

View attachment 362030

Next remove the foam to give more vacuum

View attachment 362031

Seal it back up and silicone the base to seal it all up, no leaks.

View attachment 362032

drill a hole in the center of each valve cover for a grommet to fit in when your breather is in.

View attachment 362033

This is what it looks installed on the car. Both valve covers run to a T fitting underneath the coil pack, then one line to the pump.

View attachment 362034

I mount it in front of the driver's side headlight and run the line from the T fitting to the pump. The pump has a in and out port. The out port I run a line under the car into the frame so I don't smell anything.

View attachment 362035
Interesting, did you take a reading of crankcase pressure before and after the install at WOT to see if it corrected a problem?

Mike
 
I actually tried to see if I can get any vacuum out of the electric smog pump. It’s not a bad setup plus racetronics makes a wiring harness so it’s all plug and play .
What does it read with the engine running? Voltage?
What was the voltage at the pump, during the test?
Also, what Mike asked.
 
Ahhh...just get an 84/85 oil fill tube and run a hose off the port to the ground ...and give a little back to mother earth....LOL.... ;)
 
Interesting, did you take a reading of crankcase pressure before and after the install at WOT to see if it corrected a problem?

Mike

I ran this system just for venting purposes only. The system pulls enough vacuum to vent excess crank pressure without the need of a catch can that causes pesky leaks like valve covers, oil coming up the dipstick tube and lifting the dipstick, etc. I have had it on both of my car for over 10 years now and like most Buicks mine no longer leaks any oil (and mine makes a decent amount of power). I did not do any comparisons before and after outside of seeing that it pulls approx 6 inches of vacuum when it is activated. My sole purpose was to stop excess crank pressure that had to find its way out somewhere. This process rectified my concerns. I wasn't doing it for any performance gains so I was not concerned about testing before and after crank case pressures. The pictures I posted was for a customers car I did. It is a stock motor with bolt ons that made 400whp with pump gas and alky. He was having those same issues with oil coming up the dipstick tube and leaky valve covers. After I put this system on his car those issues never came back up again, and that was done 3 years ago and still working well.
 
Custom gauge I am having built, but any pressure gauge will work. Transducer on mine will screw into oil fill cap but I'm sure there are other good spots.

Mike
 

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Or an air pump! I remember years ago seeing a hose that screwed into a sparkplug hole so you could fill a tire in an emergency. :)
 
I built this system myself, but only got a few rights before I helped some bearing get loose.

I used a new smog pump, AN adapters from Full Throttle, an hose to a catch can, to the pump, vented in the frame. I used -10AN line and fittings. My engine had some good blowby though, and really let it out of the open K&N breathers I used to run.

What hobbs switch you guys use? I have the 3 and 7 psi.
 
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