Crank sensor measurements

[Dhos1]

I changed mine for the second time ants trying to get the most accurate measurement between both slots. What would be the measurement. By feeler gauge? If so, I can measure the front side easily, but how do you measure the inner side?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Don't need to measure the inside. Just the outside.

.015 to .020

 

[dank GN]

You can use any kinda hard card like a credit card , ID . Ect those all will work to get you where u want to be as far as distance goes .

 

[TexasT]

I've used a matchbook in the past. And make sure neither side rubs by turning the crank by hand when you get it tightened down. The clearance isn't critical but it needs some, but it need to be able to pick up the signal.

 

[GNVenom]

Cut and fold a matchbook cover, shove it in the outer slot (furthest away from the connector), tighten and remove the matchbook.

 

[MaxVO2]

*****I've done the matchbook thing, or a plastic soda bottle piece, etc.. and it works of course. However, after so many years, it might be a good idea to make sure the clearance is ok on all slots to rule out a bent reluctor ring, or wobbly one from a possible loose crankshaft bolt - a known issue several have had.

If the clearance is ok on all the slots after turning the motor, you can insure there is no rubbing anywhere by using a sharpie or other marker and coloring the reluctor ring blades before starting the car and see if any of the colored parts get scraped off by the sensor. Mebbe overkill but a broken crank sensor from rubbing over time without a spare and you are towing the car as it won't start, or the car will just cut out and die with no restart.

Good luck

 

[Dhos1]

This car is a damn piece of shit!!! I’m sure it’s a fuel problem. I was hoping the crank sensor would do it. But no...this is twice for this damn thing. The injectors aren’t ticking at all. Me and TurboT diagnosed it as a fuel problem/ delivery problem. This is a pain in my ass! I’m getting fuel to the damn rail because I get fuel to the gauge. I get spark, I have air—piece of shit!

 

[MaxVO2]

****How long since the car last started? Did you check the injector fuse in the fuse block? grounds at the back of the cylinder head? I had a similar problem that turned out to be 3 bad injectors even though they were relatively new injectors. They had rusted somewhat shut. Are the plugs wet after cranking? Can you pull off the up pipe, spray some starting fluid, and the car starts for a few secs? Narrow it down. Cam sensor ok? Pull off the cap and see if you sheared the little tab on the metal window cup that provides cam sensor timing - a very common problem.

Hopefully you have a noid light to verify power getting to injectors. Doesn't mean they spit fuel out, but it narrows things down. Do you have a flashing SES light when you turn ignition ? If not, check ECM fuse and ECM grounds, etc..

Report back and don't light the car on fire out of spite!

 

[Dhos1]

Fuse-check
The grounds at cylinder head-check
Injectors-They are supposed to be new, but I have yet to check those or remove them
Have not checked cam sensor
@@@How do I verify power to the injectors@@@
I shot carb cleaner and it cranked over then cut off
Plugs were not wet
No SES light-I need to check ECM grounds.

 

[MaxVO2]

Use a noid light for the injectors, while cranking engine.

The model above can also check the IAC for signal.

If you have no flashing SES light, it is possible you have a poorly seated chip, bad chip, improper chip for application, or other ECM related issue. Older cars with original ECM sometimes have corrosion on connectors at the ECM, or poor connection. A leaking T-top, window seal, prior leaking heater core sometimes spits fluid onto the top of the ECM and causes corrosion that can cause all manner of problems. It's a relatively easy thing to verify.

If the injectors aren't spitting out fuel, car will not start.

If the cam sensor reluctor tab has broken and the wheel is just spinning, the car will not start. Common problem. Easy fix if you have the repair kit. Cam sensor cap comes off easily enough, do NOT remove the actual cam sensor in this case, just see if the reluctor tab has broken and if the wheel just flops around or spins around with gentle pressure on it.

I would focus on why no fuel seems to be coming out of injectors. The no SES light flashing when you key ignition on is a problem... Hopefully, you know what the SES light is... It's the flashing "Service engine soon" light when you key on ignition, and not the "Security" light... If you have a Scanmaster or OBD scanner, any codes you have should pop up. Otherwise, old school it and jumper the A and B terminals on the ALDL connector and see if there are any codes stored. The old GNTTYPE website has a bunch of diagnostic trees and other info that can help guide you.

Anyway, Noid light verifies signal, and wet plugs and/or dropping fuel pressure while cranking using a good quality FP gauge can help narrow down problem. There are cheap fuel injector testers that produce fake pulsewidth to injector through the connector to verify if the injector can even pulse or is locked up (should be loud clicking, with car turned off..) Any injector that doesn't click is bad. If the injectors are still on the rail, the fake pulsewidth signal will also make the injector work and reduce fuel pressure at the rail, which is verifiable with a good quality FP gauge.

Hopefully, you figure it out. It's easy to get frustrated. If you plan on keeping the car, it's very worthwhile to get a Scanmaster, a FP gauge, a noid light, a multi-meter, and some kind of spark checker. These basic tools will help you figure out a ton of issues that can crop up, and make it easier to buy just what is needed to fix it all up.

 

[Dhos1]

Update—used a noid light, and got no light at all. Someone mentioned a scanmaster. I have one but all it does is show 2.2, then off —I cannot scan through any parameters. So I get no readings. Also as far as a chip—I had it burned for E85, but is there any settings that need to be changed inside the translator possibly. So basically zero injector pulse. I’m thinking whatever is causing the no SES light is the culprit for the no firing—I’m getting closer I suppose lol

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

No SES light-I need to check ECM grounds.

Need to correct this first, it is an ECM power issue. Check the small fusible link by the battery. It provides power to the ECM. The scan master issue is also related to the ECM not running.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Thundertoad]

Just looking for more information and going through your post history, didn’t see you post the type of injectors you upgraded to. Are the injectors high or low impedance with an unmodified ECM?


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[Dhos1]

That’s a good question man! I’m not sure the impedance of the injectors. But I know my ECM isn’t modified. I need to check. I brought them from a guy on this forum that sells a turn-key E85 kit. I will ask him can that possibly be the issue?

 

[Thundertoad]

It’s possible. The stock computer needs high impedance injectors. Would be good just to check that off the list for troubleshooting.


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[John Larkin]

Agree with the others, it is an ECM issue. If you have the key-on with engine not running and the check engine light is not on, there is an issue. ECM should be getting ignition power @ pin a6 on it's harness connector. and also @ c16 - the connectors are marked. Hopefully you have a test light. Also check the ECM/IGN fuse in the fuse block under the dash. Good luck.

 

[Dhos1]

Yeah...I’ll check. I spliced in a boost controller at the harness so I’ll also look at those connections as well

 

[Dhos1]

The Ecm is good. It does not need to be modified

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Did you check the ECM power wire connection up by the battery? If you don’t have a SES light the ECM is not getting power. Test for power on the pins like John listed in his post.


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[turbo nasty]

Cut and fold a matchbook cover, shove it in the outer slot (furthest away from the connector), tighten and remove the matchbook.

^THIS