Cotton performance stage 3 kit

Billygo

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
im getting close to having to build the motor on my 87 t. I want to keep a stock bottom end and am looking at the cotton performance stage 2 or 3 kit. Does anyone have expierence with them?
 
Jack Cottons has been around for years and will be at the buick national in NC this year
it looks like you're buying a parts list not an engine service , place the order and youll get the parts
if you have any questions or want to have them install those parts pick up the phone and call him during business hours and you can talk to Jack .

stage 2 includes 61 turbo ,champ iron heads , arp head bolts , roller cam kit , injectors , alky injection ,TT chip, valvecovers , stretch intercooler and converter .and should be fine on a stock bottom end and should be good for high 10 low 11s with proper launch
you'll needed to have a good condition or properly rebuilt stock bottom end , all engine gaskets to install the parts , a good working trans rebuilt with at least a shift kit from a good builder , ignition system with no issues , upgraded fuel system(255pump w/hotwire ) and exhaust (downpipe and catback), proper suspension (no worn out parts , air bag or upgrade swaybar at minimum ) + tires for the power , and your wiring needs to be in good shape

stage 3 has XFI and champion GN1 alum heads , 64 turbo fmic and more ... could get lucky bolting this all on the stock bottom end and do well if you keep the boost down but this package should have engine upgrades like full forged rotating assembly and main caps or girdle, better built trans with some billet parts, upgraded axles and driveshaft
 
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Jack's performance "kits" are not meant to be an all inclusive, here you go, bolt it on, now run 10's, sort of sale. These kind of make-believe sales pitches are only expected to be believed in the import world for the dumb sub-20 year old baggy pants guys. But you probably know this.

It's never that easy. But "the kit" does outline the sort of direction and parts you will be going in for that cost. There is no "one size fits all". Instead, what it is, is more of a one stop shop for what you may need. Building performance goes hand and hand with building relationships.

Other than myself, over 20 years, No one more than Jack and Brian has had more influence in how my TR was constructed. But, even so, it's a process. Not a kit, per say.

Give Jack a call. Or call who you will. But build relationships first. Then build you car. BTW, this is part of the fun.

Most every TR owner here has their favorite shop and TR inner circle.
 
The bottom end is getting rebuilt. Rear is done up already. I'm getting a stage 3 trans. I'm a restoration tech. Do all the work in body and paint but have never built a full motor. Usually buy crate motors or have them rebuilt by local speed shop. This is my car and I'm taking a shot at doing it all myself.
 
The bottom end is getting rebuilt. Rear is done up already. I'm getting a stage 3 trans. I'm a restoration tech. Do all the work in body and paint but have never built a full motor. Usually buy crate motors or have them rebuilt by local speed shop. This is my car and I'm taking a shot at doing it all myself.
Be sure whoever will be involved in providing you with parts, is fully aware of your total combination and goals. Make them a part of the build. Many people have different schools of thought when accomplishing their goals. There are many good combo plans (however different) that can work. Problems come up when the plans are mixed.
 
Be sure whoever will be involved in providing you with parts, is fully aware of your total combination and goals. Make them a part of the build. Many people have different schools of thought when accomplishing their goals. There are many good combo plans (however different) that can work. Problems come up when the plans are mixed.
I plan on it. Right now I am working on the body and chassis.
 
IMHO: I would get a forged crank, better rods and some forged pistons along with the two center steel main caps. The stock cast stuff is going to flex and cause issues down the line. Do your oiling mods and you're pretty much have a nicely built bottom end. This is not meant to take anything away from Jack.....Spend once, cry once and be done with it.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
IMHO: I would get a forged crank, better rods and some forged pistons along with the two center steel main caps. The stock cast stuff is going to flex and cause issues down the line. Do your oiling mods and you're pretty much have a nicely built bottom end. This is not meant to take anything away from Jack.....Spend once, cry once and be done with it.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Agreed. I don't think Jack's site has been updated since forged cranks became readily available:rolleyes:.
We all need to remember that thing we used to do years ago.................

The telephone!
 
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