Coolant Temp Question

[NY Twin Turbo]

Ok so today I started the car , temp outside is 50ish so its cool , Took the rad cap off before I started it so I could see the flow of the rad , As soon as I started the car it immediately started flowing . So does that mean the T stat is open all the time ? As the car warmed up to 160ish the fan would kick on and off . But when the fan was on and I turned the AC on I cant tell if the fan changed speeds , like Nick M said . It is supposed to be warm this weekend so I'm gonna try again but this time I will drain the rad down a bit so I can see the flow better , Thanks Keith

Yes, you should normally easily hear the fan speed faster when the AC comes on.

The coolant will flow a trickle all the time. But when the thermostat opens it flows a lot. Watch and see if the flow changes when you reach operating temperature.

 

[gusszgs]

Just watch your temp numbers on the SM........you'll see clearly when the stat is opening and closing

 

[No disintegrations]

unless thermostat is broken and stuck half open. I had a truck where the stat broke and stayed wide open. It ran overly cool in the winter months and had poor heater output.

 

[Turbo Keith]

I'm gonna try to do some testing this weekend on the car . I do know the heater works great so that maybe telling me the T stat is working as it should .

 

[Turbo Keith]

And yesterday when I was watching it and the temp with the SM it would just stay around 165ish all the time and she ran for a good 15 min . but it was 50ish outside

 

[gusszgs]

Upon initial startup mine will always shoot up to 180-185* then fall back to 160* when the stat opens and work within a 10-15* window. Yes I run a 160* stat

 

[PaulieB]

Keep in mind that a thermostats only purpose is to maintain a minimum temp. It can't control maximum temp. Last summer, my car would sometimes hit close to 200 on the highway on a hot day. Over the winter, I pulled out my radiator (original), and took it to a radiator shop. After inspection, it was revealed to be severely plugged, being 30 years old and what not. I had it recored, and it's like night and day. I run a 180 stat, and now she stays right around 180 at all times. Usually a few degrees cooler. I also installed a switch that would allow me to shut the fan off completely if so desired. I did some testing, and as long as the car was moving forward, the temp never went above 180. Your front mount may be part of the problem, but I would take a closer look at that core for proper flow.

 

[Turbo Keith]

I'm bout to drain the rad down and see how the flow is and thank you guys for the help

 

[Turbo Keith]

OK , I drained it down a few inches and started the engine , The SM read 65 * upon start . The rad was flowing really good at start up and never changed the flow to 168 * was as warm as it got . The rad has gotta come out and be cleaned cause it was alot of whiteish shit gummed up on the flumes inside the rad . The fan kicked on at bout 164 * and would kick off and back on as it would warm up . While it was warming I did turn on the AC and the fan did come on and went off when I turned the AC off . SO I know the rad has gotta come out to be cleaned . What do I do ? Drain all the antifreeze 1 , I get that but what bout the oil lines and trans lines ? I do realize its gonna be a mess but what is the best way ? Thank you Guys for the help Keith

 

[PaulieB]

it sounds like your radiator has the same affliction mine had. That white shit is like cement. Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but a recore os probably in order. That's if you want to maintain the original radiator. If not, there are several options for aftermarket radiators. Not sure if you are still running the original or not... As for removal, it's a piece of cake. Drain out the coolant, pop the hoses off then disconnect the engine oil and trans cooler lines. A little leakage is normal. Just keep a rag handy. Them it's just a matter of unbolting and removing the radiator. It's an easy job.

 

[Turbo Keith]

Thank you PaulieB , I am running the stock rad and fan so I will take it out and have it " Rodded " out is what they say down here in the south . It does have alot of that white chalkie shit in it so maybe a good cleaning will get me going , Thanks MAn

 

[PaulieB]

Thank you PaulieB , I am running the stock rad and fan so I will take it out and have it " Rodded " out is what they say down here in the south . It does have alot of that white chalkie shit in it so maybe a good cleaning will get me going , Thanks MAn

You're welcome! Like I said though, once the tanks come off that radiator, it may not be able to be rodded out due to its age. My radiator guy had hoped he would be able to just rod mine out, but it was too far gone. I couldn't believe how plugged up it was. I hope yours can be saved, buddy!

 

[Turbo Keith]

You're welcome! Like I said though, once the tanks come off that radiator, it may not be able to be rodded out due to its age. My radiator guy had hoped he would be able to just rod mine out, but it was too far gone. I couldn't believe how plugged up it was. I hope yours can be saved, buddy!

Thanks Man , I hope so but if not I will be upgrading

 

[TurboTGuy]

With that front mount, you'd be wise to spend the money on a big aluminum radiator and a set of dual fans.

Lose the oil cooler lines (they aren't needed) and install a real trans cooler. I drive my car all the time in traffic @ 95+ degree heat. That temp is NOTHING in Phoenix, AZ. Never had a problem with either temp climbing too high that it would cause worry, but you have to buy the right stuff to eliminate the stock stuff.

Do more research. I'll bet you find my suggestions lead to:

A. Better and more efficient cooling. That's fairly cheap insurance against over-heating.

B. All that stock crap looks like s~~t anyway. Why not make it go away instead of refurbishing it if it's not really doing what you want/need it to do anymore?

Why not just do it right/better and be done with it?

But then again, I could be wrong.........

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Be sure to use distilled water on the refill, otherwise it will just plug up again from the minerals in the tap water. I use the water from the shop dehumidifier as that is distilled water.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

With that front mount, you'd be wise to spend the money on a big aluminum radiator and a set of dual fans.

Lose the oil cooler lines (they aren't needed) and install a real trans cooler. I drive my car all the time in traffic @ 95+ degree heat. That temp is NOTHING in Phoenix, AZ. Never had a problem with either temp climbing too high that it would cause worry, but you have to buy the right stuff to eliminate the stock stuff.

Do more research. I'll bet you find my suggestions lead to:

A. Better and more efficient cooling. That's fairly cheap insurance against over-heating.

B. All that stock crap looks like s~~t anyway. Why not make it go away instead of refurbishing it if it's not really doing what you want/need it to do anymore?

Why not just do it right/better and be done with it?

But then again, I could be wrong.........

Keith, if the funds are available, this may be good advise for a guy like you.

But not everyone. There are others who would shy away from some modifications and try to just replace and/or refurbish parts because it begins to take them too far from a stock type set-up. If it's adequate then that is enough for them. I truly understand this logic and wouldn't try to convince them otherwise.

However, when you are building an all purpose modern muscle car, then a good plan is important so you can complete a whole package some day. Sometimes, you can wait until a problem presents itself before you move to the next step. But when it does, now take the opportunity to go all the way! That is......If the funds are available.

I went overboard on my cooling system. And I almost never get to the track. So this means I'll be damned if I built a car that has to sit in the garage half the summer on hot days because I'm afraid it will overheat.

When it's near 100 degrees in NY, you may find me in a twin turbo Buick sitting in traffic somewhere.

 

[Turbo Keith]

Hey Guys , The rad is off and at a local rad shop for an acid cleaning . Its 40 $ for that so I'm gonna try that and see how it goes . I'm gonna fill it with distilled water and a bottle of RMI 25 and see how it goes . I will let you guys know how it goes . Thanks for all the help and advice Keith

 

[robertf]

If your going to delete the coolers, I'd get the rad shop to remove the internal rad coolers. This will free up more room for water. I took the advice and deleted my oil cooler and have a nice external trans cooler.

 

[Turbo Keith]

I'm gonna see how it works out now with a new 160 T stat and the rad cleaned out .