Code 34, dumb question.

TR Custom Parts

Mark Hueffman - Owner
Joined
May 25, 2001
Finally got my GN up and running and have about 10 minutes of run time on it. New TA timing chain, Champion ported heads and intake. Took the front end down to the bare frame rails, new tubular control arms and neatened up the wiring. Also stripped and painted everything except the roof and quarters with the exception of the hood and bumpers which I had done a couple years ago.

Anyway got a code 34 and have done some research on it but haven't dived into it yet with the exception of changing out the MAF which did not clear the code. Yes I reset the ecm. Z06 sensor with Translator Plus. Everything was carefully stored away while the car was down for the past 6 months. Here is my dumb question.... could an incorrectly installed cam sensor cause this code by any chance. Followed the procedures for the cam sensor by the book and everything seemed to be fine. TDC on #1 compression stroke verified by feeling compression coming out the sparkplug hole. Rotated another 1.45" past TDC to the mark I made on the balancer matched to the 0 mark on the timing tab. Also sure that timing chain/gears were installed correctly. Used Caspers tool to set the cam sensor per instructions. Car started right up but set the code in about 5 seconds. Falls on its face when I try to give it a moderate amount of gas. Got to hobble it over to get a front end alignment tomorrow a few miles from the house but sure would like to get this thing back to where it was before I took it apart!
 
Post your Scanmaster numbers so we can see more of what the car is doing.

I'm not sure about the cam sensor question, so i can't answer that.

The list is not very long of things to cause a code 34. Could be as simple as the TPS out of adjustment.

CODE 34

Trouble Code 34 indicates that the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is reporting less air is entering the engine than makes sense based on RPM and TPS. The MAF sensor produces a frequency output; around 30 Hz at idle to 150 Hz under acceleration. The frequency varies proportionally to airflow. The ECM monitors the frequency and thus determines airflow into the engine. Typical idle MAF is 5 to 7 grams per second.

The conditions for setting this code are:

  • no Code 21 or 22 (TPS Error) present, and
  • the air flow reported is < 4 grams per second, and
  • TPS indicates 10% or more throttle position, and
  • the engine speed is 1800 RPM or higher, and
  • the above conditions exist for over 5 seconds.


Typical causes for this code include:

1) Faulty air ducting to or from MAF sensor
2) Faulty ECM-to-MAF connections
3) Poor routing of MAF harness (i.e. near coil packs)
4) Maladjusted TPS sensor
5) Defective MAF sensor
6) Defective ECM
 
Last edited:
The maf sensor you changed out, was it a Z06 also that was in there before?

If not did you make the changes in the translater to match the new sensor?
 
Correct, Z06 was a spare I had here, new. TPS settings are perfect. Have to limp this bitch over to get the front end aligned a few miles from the house first thing this morning and will dive in deeper when I get it home. Think I can rule out the sensor itself so has to be a ground issue or maybe power circuit. This thing has fought me every step of the way on this project.
 
Did you try the old z06 sensor?
 
Tried both Z06 sensors I have, nothing was changed on the translator since parts were put in storage. Did the diagnostics testing and everything passes as far as voltage and test lamp readings. Oh well off to get front end aligned.
 
The plug from the T+ to the main wire harness can be installed backwards/180 def off. Verify alignment of the pink wire to be sure.
 
Just got to alignment shop, now also showing a code 42 along with 34. Pretty sure I have wires thru all the damn adapters correct but will go over it again. Was an adventure driving it over here.
 
Took the front end down to the bare frame rails, new tubular control arms and neatened up the wiring.

What wiring did you neaten up? Might be something you want to look at there.
 
Took the front end down to the bare frame rails, new tubular control arms and neatened up the wiring.

What wiring did you neaten up? Might be something you want to look at there.

I just tidied things up, nothing major, no splicing, cutting etc.

Got back from the alignment shop in one piece, another ordeal but that is another story.

Verified translator wires are correct, also note that adjusting the base mode in the translator does not make any difference in how the car runs. Can also unplug the MAF without any change. Got family stuff to do the rest of the day so tomorrow I will pull the computer out to see if I messed up anything on that end.

Scanmaster readings at hot idle
AF - 7
LV8 - 45
TPS - .42
INT - 128
BLM - 135
IAC - 09
MAP - 36
O2 - .840
 
Last edited:
to set a 34, the ECM basically has to receive NO maf signal. so something is not working at all, or disconnected.

the MAF (and therefore the translator) gets its ground from those grounds on the back of the engine, there are factory splices in the harness that get corroded with age.

you said you verified all the connections, so do this:

Cover off the translator, use a voltmeter with the black lead connected to the ENGINE.

Measure the voltage, both DC and AC on all the wires at the end of the translator, including the black ones.

post them here.

Bob
 
Kicking my own ass! Looked at everything with a fresh outlook today. Proper voltage at MAF plug. Decided to go back to basics and retrace the harnesses coming out of translator since I had no voltage readings at all in the box. Stupid me! In the rush to get this thing back together to make my front end alignment appointment I ended up connecting the two harnesses from the translator to each other!!!:eek: Straightened it all out and no codes.

If anything, re-learned a lesson (which I had learned long ago but didn't heed!) WALK AWAY if frustrated and start over with the basics.
 
Top