Code 33 after Maf and Translator install

macatoni

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Sep 21, 2002
Just hooked up a ls1 maf and Translator. Switches inside the translator are all set correctly for the TT chip. Went to start the car and the idle was crazy rough at first. Figured the ecu was learning the new system. Idle stabilized after 20 seconds.

Then I hit a code 33. No leaks everything looks nice and tidy. Ran just fine before I upgraded. The only variable is the maf was a used unit I recently bought that came with the translator. Anyway to test the Maf? Don't want to go replacing it if that's not the problem. Ideas?

Didn't drive the car just shut it down and started trying to troubleshoot
 
Check your connections and make sure they are good


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Deleted. Verify what Rick and Bison suggested.
 
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Maf code 33 means high flow indicated. Are you sure you have the maf base setting correct? What maf are you running?

Post switch settings in translator.

Rick
 
Make sure the sensor is not plugged in wrong

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Took it all apart. Ended up being simple and stupid! One of the four on off switches for the translator wasn't fully engaged. Flipped them all back and forth and when I did one It noticeably popped into a slot it hadn't yet. Fired it up and no code. Drives awesome!

Now if only I can get rid of this damn knock!

Just had knee surgery on both knees and honestly would rather just pay someone to sort it out. It was getting real knock when I first bought it. New walbro pump, hot wire kit, tt chip with a new set of 009's and this newer maf seemed to have helped drastically but now I think I'm getting some false knock. Going to pull the plugs when I get home and look. Maybe throw a fresh set it to start from scratch. Scan master numbers are golden. 808 on the first pull but I was in first and the knock gauge shot to 7 and I nearly pissed myself! It was 1st gear and there was some tire spin....

Anyone know a good tuner in the San Francisco Bay area I can just drop this thing off and get it sorted?
 
Roll on 3rd. Three different times I'm getting 0.9, 0 and 1.5. 14lbs of boost with 91 octane gas. 02's were 790's. Bl locked in at 128 when I hit wot.

I did notice on the 2nd pull my casters knock gauge went damn near to the middle yellow but the scan master read 0. I thought they both hooked in from the ecu so they should be reading off the same signal. Last run the casters gauge hit the red but the Scan master only read 1.5. In 1st gear runs the Casper gauge never goes above the green light unless it had more then 3 degrees....
 
Have you tried upping your octane to see if the knock goes away? I would trust the SM before the Casper gauge.
 
91 octane....boo...hiss... unless you're running alky.
Your sig shows an alky kit with an alky chip. Is it still set up like that?
 
Sorry old sig! I sold that TTA back in 07.

No the current setup is on 91, was planning ordering Alky this month and another chip to match. Was honestly waiting to do it all at once as i was gonna upgrade the turbo and put a new converter in to match. Eric i literally just got my chip and injectors from you guys two weeks ago or so. Order was under LaBree. Was hoping to get it to run with no knock before i through on the alky. I have the RJC boost controller on its lowest setting/thread count i feel comfortable with and im getting about 14psi. I know the chip is 19/17, should i pull some timing out?

Ill throw some high octane in there this weekend and see if it can get it to go away. Thats definitely a sure fire way to tell
 
In the absence of high octane would pulling a ton of timing from the chip accomplish the same thing trying to diagnose wether knock was real or false?
 
I filled it up 100 octane unleaded and the knock all but went away in the first two gears. Roll on third i would sometimes get 0.5-1.0 KR but it was less often. In the first gear roll on's id still get a little knock but not nearly as bad. So i guess its down to the horrible gas in CA? Confirmed only running 14psi.

One of the things i noticed about KR in the first few gears is that if i gradually rolled into it i was less likely to get anything then if i just pinned it. When i was originally chasing it down, before the mods listed, when i stayed partial throttle it was less likely to knock even at high boost unless i went WOT.

So am i now chasing false knock? Or should i back off the timing? I have a stock DP so theres tons of clearance there. Ill take a look for anything else that might be rattling and ill re-torque the sensor to 14 lb/ft since people seem to say thats a must.

Any other ideas?
 
One of the things i noticed about KR in the first few gears is that if i gradually rolled into it i was less likely to get anything then if i just pinned it. When i was originally chasing it down, before the mods listed, when i stayed partial throttle it was less likely to knock even at high boost unless i went WOT.
This is classic load induced detonation. The timing isn't maximized at part throttle. Flooring it maximizes the timing available. Lv8 would be the way to track it


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If you're only seeing little blips of knock like that, I'm not sure I would do anything. It's not uncommon on the shifts (I'm saying like 2* or less).

When you go back to 91 octane, you can try decreasing timing, to see if it will help. Also try to double check boost, maybe it's actually a little higher than 14psi, or it might be spiking higher when you first hit it, or on the shifts.

You could also richen it up a tad, to see if that helps out.
 
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