Clear coat engine parts

1KWIKSIX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2007
Looking for recommendations on clear coating engine parts.
I’ve had my front cover, intake manifold & valve covers media blasted and painted with Goodson High Temp Aluminum . I’d now like to clear coat them.
What’s the best Clear Coat to use keeping in mind that these engine parts will get hot.
Don’t want any yellowing over time.
I’m thinking a mat finish vs high gloss

thanks in advance

dave
 
check at VHT line they are good quality.. and have higher temp applications for your needs...

 
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Grass Doctor has the right product but the temp is only 550* if high temp is what you want look into this:
Keep in mind this is headers clear paint 1300*-2000* high temp Withstands temperatures up to 2000 degrees when cured properly
 
2k for wheels 1k for underhood
33202.jpeg
 
Looking for recommendations on clear coating engine parts.
I’ve had my front cover, intake manifold & valve covers media blasted and painted with Goodson High Temp Aluminum . I’d now like to clear coat them.
What’s the best Clear Coat to use keeping in mind that these engine parts will get hot.
Don’t want any yellowing over time.
I’m thinking a mat finish vs high gloss

thanks in advance

dave

Should powdercoat. Inexpensive and much more durable. Here's a pic of my front cover and TB. Was pretty easy to do.
 

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check out Eastwood products as well ... they have great items ..especially their speciality radiator paint ...
 
Grass Doctor has the right product but the temp is only 550* if high temp is what you want look into this:
Keep in mind this is headers clear paint 1300*-2000* high temp Withstands temperatures up to 2000 degrees when cured properly

If your timing cover sees 550 degress, the car's on fire.

if it sees 1300, it's been dropped in a smelter for recycling.

Be realistic here. A super shiny engine is an engine that rarely runs. At the same time, 500 degree tolerant base and clear is going to be fine for the block, heads, intake, and timing cover. Exhaust parts need a robust ceramic coating, and it won't maintain a shine if you actually drive the car.
 
If your timing cover sees 550 degress, the car's on fire.

if it sees 1300, it's been dropped in a smelter for recycling.

Be realistic here. A super shiny engine is an engine that rarely runs. At the same time, 500 degree tolerant base and clear is going to be fine for the block, heads, intake, and timing cover. Exhaust parts need a robust ceramic coating, and it won't maintain a shine if you actually drive the car.


good point
 
Thanks for all your suggestions and pics of your beautiful clear coated parts.
My powder coater is Unsure how it would turn out , so I’ve ordered an aerosol spray can of KBS XTC clear coat and will spray it on my parts on an outside table in a couple of weeks when the Canadian temperatures warm up a lil, and will heat cure at 250 deg F in an old BBQ that I’m gonna be getting rid of as the wife won’t let me use our oven in the house.
Guess she still can smell the Kal Guard Gun Kote we baked on my GS-1000S superbike motor back in 79
LOL
 
Looking for recommendations on clear coating engine parts.
I’ve had my front cover, intake manifold & valve covers media blasted and painted with Goodson High Temp Aluminum . I’d now like to clear coat them.
What’s the best Clear Coat to use keeping in mind that these engine parts will get hot.
Don’t want any yellowing over time.
I’m thinking a mat finish vs high gloss

thanks in advance

dave
none! not designed for high heat situations.. do to the heat it will turn yellow then you will be taking it all off cause it will eventually losee adhesion...
 
ended up finding some KBS XTC (Extreme Temperature Coating) Clear in an aerosol can and it's designed for up to 1500deg F applications.
 
painted with Goodson High Temp Aluminum . I’d now like to clear coat them.
Why wouldn't the paint you have already used be considered the 'coating' as a finished product?
I'm not sure what the clear does for you after this. Especially since you are planning to use a mat finish?
 
Why wouldn't the paint you have already used be considered the 'coating' as a finished product?
I'm not sure what the clear does for you after this. Especially since you are planning to use a mat finish?

The Goodson High Temperature Aluminum will the heat, but I screwed up when media blasting and had the guy use aluminum oxide instead of glass beading it. The parts are somewhat rough even after the Goodson HT spray and I'm looking at a clear coat to help smooth out the finish in order to be able to clean parts easier.k The KBS XTC clear is good to 1500deg F so it should not flake or yellow
 
no .. when you know the make up of clear coat you understand that clear when heated will yellow on its own. look under all your new cars and see why they don't use clear coat under the hood. or underneath,inside,etc. its only a shinny u protector for base coat..putting clear coat under the hood is good if you have a trailer queen or just a show car... but it will yellow and fade and crack..
 
Thanks for all your suggestions and pics of your beautiful clear coated parts.
My powder coater is Unsure how it would turn out , so I’ve ordered an aerosol spray can of KBS XTC clear coat and will spray it on my parts on an outside table in a couple of weeks when the Canadian temperatures warm up a lil, and will heat cure at 250 deg F in an old BBQ that I’m gonna be getting rid of as the wife won’t let me use our oven in the house.
Guess she still can smell the Kal Guard Gun Kote we baked on my GS-1000S superbike motor back in 79
LOL
I understand you want this to look nice. But you may be overthinking/overdoing this a bit.

Remember that upkeep is as important as appearance. Scratches will happen. Fluids will spill. Heat will happen.

When I paint things, I use simple high-heat or regular spray paint from Home Depot. I'm able to spray a small portion into a Dixie cup at any time and then take a long handled artists brush and touch up as needed. It always matches and you cant tell. I usually need to do this after I work on it, or every Spring when it gets it's season opening detail work. Otherwise it always holds up nicely.
 
I used high heat clear over my raw cast al valve covers. I figured they would be easier to clean. They yellowed.:( Repainted them with regular high heat paint and just clean them now.
 
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