CK servo issues

liquidh8

Active Member
Joined
May 17, 2006
Hello all. I picked up a CK Performance shift kit with billet servo from a buddy, bnib. Anyway, installed the kit and I am working on the servo, and for the life of me I can't get it to go in far enough to get the snap ring on.

This is a used tranny, and clearance with the OEM servo was good. Measuring the OEM servo and pin from snap ring surface to pin tip is the same as with the CK. If I remove the springs and pin, the servo goes in.

I've messed with it for hours, literally, in the car alone, and this is not my first time in a transmission.

Any insight would be great.
 
Ive head of guys needing a block of wood and a BIG pry bar and a third hand to get servos back in. Might get a helper and a pry barand give it another go.
 
I have had that before, but this is different.

I put a steel plate on the trans tunnel, still bent the floor, and a huge bar, no go. Most of the black anodizing is off the servo I've been messing with it so much.

I will go out in a bit a try again, but I have a 200c servo I may just use.
 
The CK is almost impossible to install in the car and get the drag set up on the band. I’ve pulled a ck servo and too k a liile off the tip off the pin and replaced. Our transmissions are in 70’s fodies. What we do is pull drive shaft, pull the trans mount and that gives us more room to get in the Ck servo we are able to move the trans around.

We have one car here that will have the stock cat / exhaust right above the servo. In this car we are going with a sonnax from rock auto. That way we can put the servo in and make any final adjustments. The sonnax is a nice piece and using them in a future builds.
 
The CK is almost impossible to install in the car and get the drag set up on the band. I’ve pulled a ck servo and too k a liile off the tip off the pin and replaced. Our transmissions are in 70’s fodies. What we do is pull drive shaft, pull the trans mount and that gives us more room to get in the Ck servo we are able to move the trans around.

We have one car here that will have the stock cat / exhaust right above the servo. In this car we are going with a sonnax from rock auto. That way we can put the servo in and make any final adjustments. The sonnax is a nice piece and using them in a future builds.

If the body mounts are shot the Sonnax will be hard to get in. Disconnecting the rear mount and prying the trans over will allow enough room to get it in.


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Thanks for the info guys. I removed the driveshaft and unbolted the trans from the mount to get the servo in. That wasn't an issue, it was the clearance. The car wash frame off, so all the body mounts are new.

I had the original BFR servo and pin out and measured it, then too the pin and assembled the CK out of the car and measured by it. The were the same.

With no springs I seem to have .060".

I just couldn't get the damn servo compressed enough to get the snap ring in there. It BARELY snuck by the outside of the servo cover. I did manage to get it together last night. I tried to double check the clearance, but the fit is so tight, when I compress the servo it doesn't spring back out.

I won't be able to road test it for a month or so, when all the salt leaves PA roads.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I removed the driveshaft and unbolted the trans from the mount to get the servo in. That wasn't an issue, it was the clearance. The car wash frame off, so all the body mounts are new.

I had the original BFR servo and pin out and measured it, then too the pin and assembled the CK out of the car and measured by it. The were the same.

With no springs I seem to have .060".

I just couldn't get the damn servo compressed enough to get the snap ring in there. It BARELY snuck by the outside of the servo cover. I did manage to get it together last night. I tried to double check the clearance, but the fit is so tight, when I compress the servo it doesn't spring back out.

I won't be able to road test it for a month or so, when all the salt leaves PA roads.
I don't know why you are unable to get that piece of crap servo in,but it will bring nothing to the table when/if you do. The BRF servo is the best servo for your situation. I run the stock BRF servo with a stronger cushion spring and the 3rd accumulator piston with the ring on it with the stock return spring behind a 700 hp engine. I've never had any problems in 29 years. FYI,I also use an unmodified BRF separator plate.
 
I tried to double check the clearance, but the fit is so tight, when I compress the servo it doesn't spring back out.
If you can't push the servo cover in after the snap ring is installed,you don't have enough clearance. You should be able to rotate the drive shaft by hand in neutral. Usually one direction and not the other. If you can't rotate it in either direction,you're too tight. Don't drive it this way.
 
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