Car starts then dies

Joined
Jan 30, 2004
I just disconnected the orange wire coming off the battery for 5 seconds to clear my code 45 and after reconnecting the car won't run for long. It starts and runs for 5 seconds then dies. Everytime I start it after that it runs for less and less time till all the car does is crank. I try to get the car to continue to run longer by playing with the throttle, but all it does is pop a few times and dies. I can tell the car gets fuel b/c I can smell raw fuel at the pipes. The car ran 30 minutes prior with no problems. I also disconnected the MAF and tried to start it with the same issue. I can hear the full pump run, saw no vacuum leaks and have good (40 psi) fuel pressure. Any ideas? I have a DirectScan file that I ran 30 minutes before if that helps.

I did find something interesting with the two relays near the blower motor on the passenger fender (near where the orange wire goes, the reason I found it). Check it out

http://www.zmydust.com/dougsfastz/images/GN/IMG_2774.JPG

http://www.zmydust.com/dougsfastz/images/GN/IMG_2778.JPG

Sorry for the blurry pics

What do these relays do? Anything else I can check?

Thanks guys,

Doug D
 
The GNX sensor just has a little faster reading time, so it works a little better on performance oriantated TRs. Its really just a step up from the stock 02 sensor, looks the same and just plugs right in.
 
Well installed a new (but crappy) Bosch 02 sensor. The car still does the same thing. I did order a GNX one from Kirben, just waiting for it. What else can I check?

Thanks,

Doug D
 
The fuel pump relay does look a little messed up in the pictures. How to I go about troubleshooting that?

Doug D
 
Use a fuel pressure guage to confirm fuel pressure.

The GNX sensor AFS21 is suppossedly a little more resilient(sp) to heat. In other words, they were trying to protect the turbo in case the O2 decided to flake off.

When the motor is cold, its in open loop and doesnt use the O2 sensor. O2 sensor is used when the car gets temp and goes into closed loop.

So yes it sounds like the fuel pump doesnt stay running.

I beleive there is a plug to the oil pressure sending unit that can disable the fuel pump. And if the car has a "hot wire" kit for the fuel pump coming off that connector behind the alternator, meerly hook that wire to the back of the alternator and the fuel pump will run continously.. if it stays running.. you have something to look for.

HTH
 
Thanks Razor.

Vender Defender just told me about the disconnect black connector behind the alternator that I'm going to hook up directly to the back of the alternator. If the pump runs continously, what do I check for next?

Also, I know the pump works, because I get about 38 psi with the key in the on position and I can hear it run for a second to prime. It seems like it primes enough fuel to let it run for those 2 seconds and dies.

Doug D
 
Hi!
Fuel pump "prime" connector is on the driver's side with the "tach" terminal. Power this and the pump runs continuously.As I remember,it is a gray wire, probably also with such a connector. DO NOT power up the Green tach wire, don't know if you will blow the ignition module, but I don't want to find out! I always use this to fire up the fuel system after a long sit.
All this stuff is close to the power steering reservoir, may be taped to the harness on virgin cars. Seek, and ye shall find....
Dale
 
On second thought, it probably is around the alternator. I'm losing my short term memory. What am I talking about, who am I? ETC
 
yep it has a black connector and it fits also on your engine light compartment wire just disconnect and connect that wire works fine thats how i drain my tank. don't confue it with the green one that one is for a tach. it's the black conector with dark brown wire
and its just sitting there unconnected just make sure you don't forget to disconnect it when yoour done.
 
Busa,

Look at the first pic in the first post, what do you think cause it to get hot like that?

Thanks,

Doug D
 
i see, it looked like mine at one time. you have a short somewhere
and your relay is probably jacked, mine was. smell it. it probably smells burned. i ended up buying a new relay and followed where those wires go to and re wired it. found out the power wire has rubbed off the plastic part and it was touching metal. took me a month to figure it out :mad: works fine now, i almost sold it:eek: thank god i didn't! ialso cheked all the power wires that hooke to the battery. the guy before had this thing all rigged up. my fuse kept poppin but i just kept putting one in till it got to the point it won't even run just crank. if you can't find the relays at the parts store i found mine at an automotive electrical fixer people and i asked alot of questions? good luck doug hope you fix it. like i said i started rewiring it i mean its damaged already right, might as well fix it.
abner
 
you can have those guy's test the relay also. or you can do it yourself. take the cover off and see if it closes that means power to the pump. have somebody turn the key on and off.
 
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