Car dying

[krisking94]

okay first off in the last month I've put a new fuel filter,regulator and pump in the car. Earlier today I was coming from work in the GN. Car was running great, had been running great since I put the pump in. Well long story short I forgot something at work and had to turn back, car still running just fine at this point. On my way home the car just dies, no chugging or stalling, just died. Pulled to the side restarted the car it fired right up then just died again. Started it again and it stayed running for about 10 min, but it was running just fine for those 10 min. Then the car died at a light, would start then immediately die. I started it again and kept my foot on the gas and basically break torqued it to keep it running. While I was doing that the ses light just kept flashing then it went away and I made it home just fine. Pull into my driveway then I put it reverse to back out and the car dies again. Started it back up and the Rpms shot up to 1700 for a bit. Shut her off. Came back out 45 min later started it up, started Just fine then it died. Started it again no issues and it ran for probably 5-7 min before i turned it off on my own. I took a couple videos of the SM numbers and just the car idling I'll post them here in a bit.

 

[mikestertwo]

Was there any code set? If the SES light was flashing there may be an issue with the prom chip in the computer. Try reseating the chip in the computer. Also check the power quick disconnect at the battery for a bad connection/corrosion. Also reseat the two connectors on the computer.

 

[krisking94]

Was there any code set? If the SES light was flashing there may be an issue with the prom chip in the computer. Try reseating the chip in the computer. Also check the power quick disconnect at the battery for a bad connection/corrosion. Also reseat the two connectors on the computer.

When you say prom chip are you meaning my TT chip for instance?

 

[krisking94]

Was there any code set? If the SES light was flashing there may be an issue with the prom chip in the computer. Try reseating the chip in the computer. Also check the power quick disconnect at the battery for a bad connection/corrosion. Also reseat the two connectors on the computer.

As far as if there is a code set idk, the light would only come on when the car wanted to die, but the other 2 dummie lights on the top left (oil, bat I believe) would come on as well like the key was turned over for power but not to start the car. So I couldn't tell you if there is a code set because when it was running it ran perfectly fine, that's why I believe my issue is electrical and hopefully a loose battery connection

 

[krisking94]

Was there any code set? If the SES light was flashing there may be an issue with the prom chip in the computer. Try reseating the chip in the computer. Also check the power quick disconnect at the battery for a bad connection/corrosion. Also reseat the two connectors on the computer.

 

[mikestertwo]

When you say prom chip are you meaning my TT chip for instance?

Yes, the TT chip. Also check the computer power connector at the battery.

 

[krisking94]

Yes, the TT chip. Also check the computer power connector at the battery.

Is it also possible it's a cam or crank sensor

 

[TurboTGuy]

Check the connections at the starter.

 

[dank GN]

I got money on your power links at the starter . Those fuseable links are right next to a hot ass header and I have seen them cause havac . Ether that or your grounds on the back of the head or the main one in front of the engine block . Check them out .

 

[krisking94]

It starts up just fine though? Also where does this go? Seems to be disconnected from something

Check the connections at the starter.

 

[krisking94]

Okay so I got my razor alky kit all installed yesterday. Did some runs. Ran great. No knock or anything. Today coming home from work car shut off on me again in the same spot. Just sitting at the light then it just shuts off. Turn it back on get it home. Pulling in the drive way as soon as I come to a stop it shuts off again. Start it back up throw it
In park check all my SC numbers. Only 2 I did not like were the INT and IAC. I can't remember if in closed loop the int should move up and down or stay at a constant. Usually it sits right at 128. Kept bouncing from 128-135. BLM were sitting at 139 but that's because I have a leak at where my turbo and DP meet. My IAC was very high though, It was sitting at 89. Now this may sound dumb but if my idle air control is out of whack could it make the car shut off? When I did a couple wot runs yesterday I checked my SM numbers once I parked it and my IAC was at 36. Still high but no where near 89.

Check the connections at the starter.[/QUOTE

 

[krisking94]

Now I gave it about 5 min restarted it and my
Numbers are this.
AF-04
L8-32
Bat-13.8
Int-128
Bl-139
Clt-173
Ats-97
Rpm-725-775 (should it bounce around like that?)
Tps.44
Iac-33

Could my MAF be going bad?

 

[scgnx2]

Yes a bad MAF will definitely cause the car to stall.

 

[TurboTGuy]

It starts up just fine though? Also where does this go? Seems to be disconnected from something

I swear I answered this last night. Guess I didn't hit "Post Reply".

That piece connects via the vacuum hose pictured to a hard vacuum line that terminates under the Fuel Pressure Regulator. That hard line runs to the second from the front nipple (connected by a short vacuum hose) on the vacuum block on the top of the inlet plenum.

 

[TurboTGuy]

I got money on your power links at the starter . Those fuseable links are right next to a hot ass header and I have seen them cause havac . Ether that or your grounds on the back of the head or the main one in front of the engine block . Check them out .

Dank is basically saying the same thing I am when I said check the connections at the starter, I should have been more specific. Those fusible links at the starter have been known to wreak havoc with these cars. Check those for heat/wire damage.