Can't decide what to get next (if anything)

Crazy D

Resident Madcap
Joined
May 26, 2001
I've got lots of expenses (new homeowner and all) and little savings, so it may not happen at all, but I was debating what I should do next to my car, if anything.

Has TE-44 turbo, Duttweiler neck i/c, walbro 340 hotwired, kb ram air, 009 injectors and afpr, that's the big stuff, tons of little stuff going down to the aftermarket pinion snubber.

Last year at the track ran slower than the year before, even though I came back with slicks! Think it might be because vacuum brake conversion was also done, so have added an extra air canister. My choices:

A. Translator or T+ w/ LS1 MAF. Dunno if this is worth the cash, or which one I'd want (not big on tuning, on the other hand, car needs all the help it can get)
B. Cam... which one I have no clue. Whether this is a good way to go, I dunno.
C. Air bags. Since my 60ft times were crap and I'm just not sure why.
D. Ported and polished heads... unlikely I can con someone into doing them.
E. ??? Something else that gives good bang for the buck?
 
Scan tool?

Your best bang for the buck is getting the components that you already have to work together. That's tuning. It's not painful and actually can be quite fun - especially after you've had some success and see what it can do for you. If you need to throw some parts at the car, Hooker cat back exhaust w/test pipe (if you already don't have it?)
 
How fast have you gone ?
DS or TurboLink is nice for tuning.
Boxed control arms, air bags, sway bar, all help traction.

Aw screw it, just buy a TE-88 and be done:D
 
Scan tool.
Boxed lowers[you won't believe how well this works,even with the snubber].
Airbags.
You should be able to do all that for less than $500.:)
 
If it's going slower than before QUIT throwing $$ at it and tune it... That's the cheapest way..
As blackbuick87 asked, How fast are ya going now and before the mods?:cool:
 
I shoulda been more specific. I have a Tlink now, though I admit the car probably needs some competent tuning. And the car has an ATR 2.5" dp and catless hooker exhaust.

I ran 13.0 flat on street tires my first time at the track. Yes, that's pathetic, but so was everyone else's time that day.

Last year I couldn't beat 13.5, and it was all in my 60ft times (which were only 2.1 before), so we assumed I didn't have enough vacuum with the brakes.

Geez, after seeing those times, I know I'm gonna get a bunch of "TUNE IT" posts.
 
Don't kid yourself,13.00 ain't too shabby.
However,you'll still have to address the traction issue,no matter what tire you run.
That's why I said,boxed lowers and airbags.
You've got the diagnostics covered,so you're a step ahead of the game.
Have you got a ported elbow to go with that D/P?
That could help.:)
A translator setup and cold air kit would help[you've got enough injector for it].
All these "costly" add ons I listed might just leave with enough money to buy a special someone[signifigant other],a little extra present for Christmas.
 
airbags do really work. Plus it's probably the cheapest thing you could do (and I know how important that is). Slicks wouldn't hurt either. But if you just have a stock converter, then I think a 3000rpm stall would definately do you the best. I just happen to have one I was thinking about getting rid of. Let me know if you are interested.
 
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