Can someone recommend a stall number for me

[Waco84GN]

Combo as it stands is

3.8 with standard bottom end.
Forged pistons
Champion ported irons
Champion ported factory intake
Hemco plenum and 70mm accufab tb
Cam is a full throttle 212/ 212 flat tappet
72lb injectors
66mm with p trim exhaust wheel. I think it is a Garrett housing. I'm at work. Will check.
Front Mount going on soon
Getting a good rebuild done to tranny so I would like to know roughly what stall to shoot for.

Would still like to remain somewhat streetable with lock up function.

Ask questions if more info is needed.

Thanks

Jerry

 

[Sydwyndr]

how much track time is it going to see?? Mine sees maybe 5 passes a year and I went with 17 blade PTC NLU...

 

[psycho6cyl]

how much track time is it going to see?? Mine sees maybe 5 passes a year and I went with 17 blade PTC NLU...

How many miles do you put on the car? Long drives or is it local? Just curious ill be doing a nlu and was wondering on the driveability. I do.lots of long hauls not concerned about gas milage.. thx

 

[David Husek]

Getting a good rebuild done to tranny so I would like to know roughly what stall to shoot for.

Would still like to remain somewhat streetable with lock up function.

I would look at a 3250 stall 9.5" lock-up. Contact me for more information.

 

[jasjamz]

3500

 

[Waco84GN]

Mostly street miles. I might hit the track twice a year. Would've gone to the nats this year if the car didnt have tranny issues and a posi rear that needs new clutches.

I would say the car gets driven less than 1500 miles a year but it is mostly to shows that are not near me so I have to get on the highway quite a bit.

Thanks Dave for your suggestion, may be giving you a call. Anyone else want to make my car go fast?

Thanks,

Jerry

 

[robzombie]

Dave will set you straight, he's on the money with the stall with the turbo you stated.

I run a 3,500 and it's super streetable. The converter tech of today allows higher stall with near stock drivability.

I think you'd be happy with Dave's choice of lockup conv. that he's recommending for you.


FYI, I drive my car 100 miles a day back and forth to work and play with it hard on the weekends if that helps you.

 

[Eticket]

John C. from DFW has an art carr for sale in the for sale section that would probably work for you.

for a turbo that big, you want to go as loose as you can stand to help it spool faster.

 

[robzombie]

I would say the car gets driven less than 1500 miles a year but it is mostly to shows that are not near me so I have to get on the highway quite a bit.

Hence needing the lockup.

I feel there is no need for a NLU in a car that sees little or no track time and runs tens or slower.

I not only love my LU conv. , I also use the lean cruise mode in my Bob Bailey chip and love it for street driving.

I would only go with the 3,500 stall if you want the best spool up and play hard on the street, but I will tell you that a little lag is a good thing especially on street tires.

I can't keep my tires from breaking loose with street tires on it when I jump on it.

 

[Eticket]

yeah.. then talk with Dave H. or get a 10" PTC 3200 stall from Dusty.

 

[20psiofevil]

What is the goal of the car? What do you want it to run those couple of times you do track it?

 

[Nick Micale]

Jerry, glad you are getting the GN going so you can have fun with it!

Converter selection is a "black art" as the manufacturers has their own rating of converter stall and they really cannot be compared among them?

The method we use is to compare your build and use with a similar one we have done prior that has met customer requirements.

For example, Dave suggests a 3250 stall with a 9.5" converter, but with the converter company we use, that would NOT be our "rated", or listed stall, and our number would be 3600-3800?

The most crucial item you list is a 66mm wheel and P-trim w/Garrett exhaust housing. This is probably our most common street build, and one of my street cars has this same turbo which is perfect with our 3800 10" spec converter.

Even with the best "guess", a converter may have to be re-stalled, because after trying it could be too loose or tight on the first try for a given build.

 

[Waco84GN]

Nick I totally agree with what you are saying. I knew going into this question that everyone would probably have a different opinion. I also know that each companies converters are going to act differently due to clutch material, fin count, and fin angle.

One thing I don't want is a real boggy, acceleration from a light like you get when a car has way too much convertor. So I was just trying to get an idea from people with experience what to aim for as far as a stall rating to shoot for.

In general it looks like 3200 - 3600 but each companies convertor is a lil different.

One company a's 3600 might act like company b's 3200.

Thanks for all the input I have gotten so far.

Jerry jr.

 

[J-B Racing]

3200 @ 0 boost sounds about right.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I would look at a 3250 stall 9.5" lock-up. Contact me for more information.

I just put in one of these converters and I love it. My combo is similar to yours. It is very street friendly and mine is set up for 3250 stall and couples at 4800. The converter will flash to 3250 right now and it couples at 4800 like Dave said it would. Search my posts and look for the post I made a few days ago with my Powerlogger files. If you have the powerlogger software you can look at my run. If you don't have the software I think you can download it from fullthrottle.com? The converter works on the top end if you look at the rpm VS mph.

I drive mostly highway because I live in a small town. The lockup works great and I run 28" tall tires so I run low rpm at 55. No issues.

I'm running 23 boost and lazy timing right now but once I get the car dialed in and turn up the boost I think I'll really get the most from this converter. I gained 10 mph and 7 tenths just switching to this converter from my old 10" 3200. I have a thread with the video's of the two runs at the track.

I did some research and talked with 3 companies before I ordered. I went with Dave because he took the most time with me on the phone and seemed like he wanted to build me something for my car if you know what I mean. Not taking away from anyone else because I'm sure their product is good but I feel like I got something built with my car in mind and it just plain works.

If I had to pick one of the best vendors I have ever worked with in the last 14 years Dave would be at the top of the list. I bought the converter, went to the track on a Sunday. Dave called me to see how it worked, gave me some tips and I went back to racing. When I call Dave he answers the phone, takes time to help me etc, not just for the converter either.

I don't recommend vendors lightly, but I will tell you if you give Dave a call and use one of his converters you will never look back.

 

[Waco84GN]

Thanks for your input barracuda.

Trying to round up funds to make my dream work.

Jerry

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Dusty Bradford]

3000 rpm at "0" boost will spool a 66mm P trim and will work well on a pump gas tune up. 3200-3400 will spool faster but will have less efficiency if you want to crank up the boost into the 22-26 range. The more boost you want to run, the tighter the "0" boost stall will have to be to maintain efficiency but if your not worried about track times and just want a snappy seat of the pants feel then 3000-3200 is all that's needed.

 

[Waco84GN]

Thank you for explaining some of the trade-offs between a higher stall number and efficiency dusty. Also thank you for your opinion as you are a very knowledgeable converter man as well.

One more question that I have is; are there distinct advantages between the different size converters. 9.5 vs 10 vs 9-11. Just curious what each does better than the other. I was told the smaller converters could be made to stall higher than the d-5 style converters but that is really my limit of knowledge when it comes to size on converters.

I know it is off topic from the original question but I would just like to be a (somewhat) informed buyer. I would much rather the information be put down in writing here on the board (and it probably already has) but at least the gurus aren't just telling "me" this over the phone they are in theory helping the board.

Just thinking out loud.

Thanks,

Jerry

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Since you are looking at the lock-ups. They are all basically the same. You have a 9.5 or a 10" lock-up. They are all based on the same core so their characteristics will also be very similar. They all work well into the 11's as long as your stall speed doesn't get over 3200-3300 rpm and/or et goal doesn't get to deep into the 11's. They are also all single disc so WOT lock-up is not recommended. I like a 2800 stall for a car with low 11 second goals, with an occasional trip into the 10's. A 3200 stall will have quicker spool but will begin to slip badly when ran deep into the 11's. With a converter, it's a balancing act. To get more stall, you also get less efficiency especially behind the rpm limited Buick engines. This is why the combo is so important. A 66mm turbo is as large as anyone should run and still expect decent spool up for a street car. The p trim and garrett .63 housing is a big help.

The 9x11 is for someone who needs lock up at WOT but they will not stall more than 2200-2400 rpm.

Keep in mind my stall speeds are all based on 0-1# stall speeds. A 3800 stall at 10# may only be 2600 at 0-1#.

The slower the et goal, the higher stall you can run to make spooling easier. Remember the higher the stall, the more slip.

Final call on stall speed would be based on your realistic et goal or boost level.

 

[jasjamz]

I just put in one of these converters and I love it. My combo is similar to yours. It is very street friendly and mine is set up for 3250 stall and couples at 4800. The converter will flash to 3250 right now and it couples at 4800 like Dave said it would. Search my posts and look for the post I made a few days ago with my Powerlogger files. If you have the powerlogger software you can look at my run. If you don't have the software I think you can download it from fullthrottle.com? The converter works on the top end if you look at the rpm VS mph.

I drive mostly highway because I live in a small town. The lockup works great and I run 28" tall tires so I run low rpm at 55. No issues.

I'm running 23 boost and lazy timing right now but once I get the car dialed in and turn up the boost I think I'll really get the most from this converter. I gained 10 mph and 7 tenths just switching to this converter from my old 10" 3200. I have a thread with the video's of the two runs at the track.

I did some research and talked with 3 companies before I ordered. I went with Dave because he took the most time with me on the phone and seemed like he wanted to build me something for my car if you know what I mean. Not taking away from anyone else because I'm sure their product is good but I feel like I got something built with my car in mind and it just plain works.

If I had to pick one of the best vendors I have ever worked with in the last 14 years Dave would be at the top of the list. I bought the converter, went to the track on a Sunday. Dave called me to see how it worked, gave me some tips and I went back to racing. When I call Dave he answers the phone, takes time to help me etc, not just for the converter either.

I don't recommend vendors lightly, but I will tell you if you give Dave a call and use one of his converters you will never look back.

Not to become argumentative but I want to say this.
You have a TA-60 in your sig. Put a p-trim 66 or 67 on that car and there will be a very noticeable difference using the same converter. I just did a swap of a 60-1 that died to a 6766 on a car with a 9.5 inch ptc from Dusty. Champion ported irons and 206/206 cam. Boy did it take the fun out of that car in the 0-18 psi range. Now the upside to it is that he is a racer that will see 25-28 psi most of the time. However the street fun went out the window. Food for thought. Tight converter...big Turbo...dull street car