Cam Sensor Cap Failure??

NCTURBOS

Gettin' back in action!!
Staff member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Anyone have a cam sensor cap failure?? Not the reluctor wheel tab breaking issue... But the actual cap "electronics" fail? What were the symptoms of the car??


K.
 
I helped a friend get his car back together. The car would start and run when cold. After it warmed up, it wouldn't restart. The cam sensor cap was the last thing we thought of, and the last thing we changed. Figuring it was the only thing left, we changed it and it fixed the problem. Part of the reason my new engine will have a distributor.
 
...The cam sensor cap was the last thing we thought of, and the last thing we changed. Figuring it was the only thing left...

Rob, that's exactly where I'm at with this car. The car has no issues starting(hot or cold), but intermittently acts like it's mixing up cylinders.


K.
 
Subscribed.

I'm currently chasing a shutoff/nostart on a new build where i have spark and fuel. It passes the no start tree
 
cam sensor

I believe you can hook a volt meter up to two of the wires in the cap plug run a little piece of metal back and forth under the cap were the window for the reluctor wheel spins should move the volt meter.not very often is it a interment problem it's either good or bad.
 
The cam signal is needed to start but not to stay running.

If the signal drops out while the engine is running the injectors go into batch fire. You can hear the injectors change rhythm. This will set a cam sensor code.

You can unplug the cam sensor once the motor is running. This will also make the injectors batch fire. The same effect as signal drop out. Compare what your hearing.

HTH
 
I helped a friend get his car back together. The car would start and run when cold. After it warmed up, it wouldn't restart. The cam sensor cap was the last thing we thought of, and the last thing we changed. Figuring it was the only thing left, we changed it and it fixed the problem. Part of the reason my new engine will have a distributor.

Just for grins, what would a distrutor do to the ECM and associated systems?
 
Even if the tab is good to go, there may be excessive end play in the shaft. This may allow the ring to hit the top of the cap slot....I always shim the shaft/gear for min end play...
 
If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.

It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.

If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.

Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....

Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.
 
If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.

It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.

If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.

Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....

Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.

John... Thanks for weighing in on this!! That is the best response I've seen in the last 18-years regarding the function of the cam sensor.

I'm also open for any thoughts you may have on diagnosing fault at the CCCI connector.


Thanks,

K.
 
If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.

It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.

If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.

Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....

Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.

John, Does the cam sensor resync during starting or is that only after the engine is running?
 
If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.

It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.

If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.

Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....

Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.
Quick question. Can a loose cam sensor cap cause this issue of driving fine, then on the interstate once it’s warmed up cause massive missing and backfires? I replaced the coil pack and module only to have this issue rear it’s head again on the interstate. I found the cam sensor cap not tightened down?
 
Quick question. Can a loose cam sensor cap cause this issue of driving fine, then on the interstate once it’s warmed up cause massive missing and backfires? I replaced the coil pack and module only to have this issue rear it’s head again on the interstate. I found the cam sensor cap not tightened down?

When mine was loose I saw more of an issue at startup. Easy fix takes maybe 10 mins.
 
Anyone have a cam sensor cap failure?? Not the reluctor wheel tab breaking issue... But the actual cap "electronics" fail? What were the symptoms of the car??


K.
Hey Keith,
I have had several caps fail due to the sensor wire leads inside the cap. Also seen caps 'act up' due to excessive end play. If I buy new I replace the spacer washer with a roller bearing and keep end play to a minimum. Hope this helps.
 
Top