...The cam sensor cap was the last thing we thought of, and the last thing we changed. Figuring it was the only thing left...
I helped a friend get his car back together. The car would start and run when cold. After it warmed up, it wouldn't restart. The cam sensor cap was the last thing we thought of, and the last thing we changed. Figuring it was the only thing left, we changed it and it fixed the problem. Part of the reason my new engine will have a distributor.
If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.
It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.
If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.
Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....
Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.
If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.
It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.
If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.
Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....
Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.
Quick question. Can a loose cam sensor cap cause this issue of driving fine, then on the interstate once it’s warmed up cause massive missing and backfires? I replaced the coil pack and module only to have this issue rear it’s head again on the interstate. I found the cam sensor cap not tightened down?If you suspect the cam sensor and the car does start: Start the car, disconnect the cam sensor connector, and drive it, albeit with the SES light illuminated.
It remains in batch fire, and should run consistently anywhere above idle.
If the cam sensor becomes intermittent, the offset signal will re-initialize the spark firing order, causing the car to run very badly within the throttle range and would easily cause the engine to shut down.
Many years ago I designed a device called the ATAC which was an anti-carjacking thing. It would disturb the cam signal and reset it, causing the car to run very badly, eventually die, and then would remove the signal altogether...once the device was tripped, 3 minutes later it'd kick in, and you would find your car sitting in the middle of an intersection, unable to be restarted. But I digress....
Cam sensors can become intermittent, especially if the wiring and connector terminals become exposed to the air - somewhat common considering the age of our cars. The biggest culprit is the CCCI connector; I've seen many failures of the connections.
Quick question. Can a loose cam sensor cap cause this issue of driving fine, then on the interstate once it’s warmed up cause massive missing and backfires? I replaced the coil pack and module only to have this issue rear it’s head again on the interstate. I found the cam sensor cap not tightened down?
Hey Keith,Anyone have a cam sensor cap failure?? Not the reluctor wheel tab breaking issue... But the actual cap "electronics" fail? What were the symptoms of the car??
K.