Built 3.8 vs 4.1 vs stage2

kraus

Active Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Alright I had a complete motor failure. So I am in market of building or buying a built motor.

I have a 4.1 stroke as on option it is a It’s 3.625 stroke, Carrillo 6.5” rods, Ross racing pistons with the upgraded wrist pins. Total seal AP steel gapless 2nd ring. Billet centers, drilled and tapped cam bore for Danny bee retainer for billet cam. BHJ balancer, JW wheel, rjc oil pan.

Option 2
Duttweiler machined the 3.8. It’s a 3.820” bore, 6.350” molnar rods , 4340 steel stroker crank,bhj blancer, jw wheel

Option 3 stage block and build to what I want.

Now this is problem I street drive it a ton. Like 8 10000 miles a year. Always run e85,auto cross it 6 8 times a year, and I also drag race it.
I know saying I want reliable is a hard to be perfect setup.
Old bottom end was a scat,crank,4 billet mains,rjc girdle, Milner stock stoke rods and diamond pistons.
So what is best options for a close to all around use.
 
Well the most expensive way is unfortunately the way I would go . That is go with the stage block and build it the way you want to . If you build the stage block properly you should be able to do all of the things you listed . Just my opinion.
 
I believe Lou Czarnota (TurboLou) has a Stage motor, or at least most of one for sale right now.

Call him. 949.378.1590
 
For all the things you list above I would go with a Stage block and be done with it.
 
Hit up dankGN on the board here too. Chris may have something.
 
You have all those parts and have already specifically allocated all the parts for each block and build....


....and you want peanut gallery advice?
 
I think it all depends on how vigilant you are? Tune and monitor it yourself? A stage will be a better outcome as long as you keep up on it and monitor the vitals, spark timing, fuel pressure, etc. The stock blocks are closer to disposable and quicker to build if needed. Racing does break stuff. Will you be heart broken if the stage is hurt and so on? Your call of course.
 
You have all those parts and have already specifically allocated all the parts for each block and build....


....and you want peanut gallery advice?
I dont have any of those parts . Those 2 builds are done and are offered to me. That is why I am asking best route. If had thes on my possession I would run one and see,being of have a back if failed hard.
 
First off.....how did the other engine let go and why?

As far as the 109 vs stage 2 or TA the Stage and TA stuff has priority mains, head bolts at 12 and 6, stronger block, etc. Now with that said just because its a stage block doesnt mean they are all ready for 900-1000+ HP. There were several iterations and many are prone to cracking, core shift, etc. The bottom ends as far as main fastener strategy goes was changed from 2 bolts mixed with 4 bolts to all 4 bolts to 4 bolt and 6 bolt.
But a 109 can hold up very well with a good builder and a good tune...repeat tune!! Not saying you would do this but people racing with 3/8 of a tank of gas, not monitoring fuel psi, batt volts, E %, Battery volts, keeping fresh plugs in, etc are not going to get good results with any block. You are at a crossroads and its gonna be costly. IMO get a solid goal HP /ET, etc wise and get the best you can. The TA block is repairable and lighter than a stage 2 and if you go ON center the rods arent cheap.
 
depending on the price of the 2 blocks that are built already i might would go with one of those. if not start fresh and go TA block.

Do you know the compression of the 2 already built?
 
depending on the price of the 2 blocks that are built already i might would go with one of those. if not start fresh and go TA block.

Do you know the compression of the 2 already built?
9 and 9.5.
Both are around the same price give or take 500
 
Alright I had a complete motor failure. So I am in market of building or buying a built motor.

I have a 4.1 stroke as on option it is a It’s 3.625 stroke, Carrillo 6.5” rods, Ross racing pistons with the upgraded wrist pins. Total seal AP steel gapless 2nd ring. Billet centers, drilled and tapped cam bore for Danny bee retainer for billet cam. BHJ balancer, JW wheel, rjc oil pan.

Option 2
Duttweiler machined the 3.8. It’s a 3.820” bore, 6.350” molnar rods , 4340 steel stroker crank,bhj blancer, jw wheel

Option 3 stage block and build to what I want.

Now this is problem I street drive it a ton. Like 8 10000 miles a year. Always run e85,auto cross it 6 8 times a year, and I also drag race it.
I know saying I want reliable is a hard to be perfect setup.
Old bottom end was a scat,crank,4 billet mains,rjc girdle, Milner stock stoke rods and diamond pistons.
So what is best options for a close to all around use.
TA or stage built by Chris Hogeland.
 
If you go with a built motor and not a stage motor the cost is almost the same except for the cost of the block. I would not put that kind of money in a 109 or 4.1 production block, the stage blocks are built stronger with 4 bolt mains and higher nickel content in the block therefore stronger. Spend wisely and get the proper tuning and you should be happy. Remember the motor is only as good as the build and the driver.
 
Top