build a 200-4R for 1,000 HP


Well-Known Member
My experience with the redlined compared to the blue plates is that the blue plates are tougher. When the redlined plates get stressed to a certain point, they will sacrifice material and will thin out. The blue plates will burn, but material loss is much slower. The blue plates can take more heat and continue to operate, but the steels can't and ultimately the steels become the limiting factor. When the steels start to develop hot spots (hardened, raised spots on the surface of the plate) and warp, the clutch goes down hill fast. I have no experience with the other materials you're mentioning.
I have seen blue plates take a lot of abuse where other plates would hae failed. I used them in my very first T-400 build over 10 years ago in the direct clutch pack. They did show evidence of slipping from the evidence on the steel plates(Hot spots and warped) and the clutches were turning black. My general opinion is that they are a great clutch for strength but maybe not the best as a shifting clutch. Since I didn't want to throw away those expensive clutches ,I moved the blue plates to the forward drum and since used Red Eagles in direct/intermediate with no issues.
Raybestos has now released the Gen II blue plate but I don't know if there are any differences. I am now trying the Stage 1 red frictions in my Torqueflight 727 behind my 572" Hemi. From what I can tell, they seem to grab very fast but they also have a nice waffle pattern to displace oil. I havn't ran this car yet but it also won't make the power my Buick does so its an apples to orange comparison anyway.
Allan G.


Well-Known Member
I have a 200 4r behind my Stage 2 motor. It has everything Bruce has to throw at it. Everything is Billet. Bruce said if I brake this one, I will have no choice but to go with a 4L80E or a Turbo 400. I'm hoping it holds up! I guess I will see this year. For the cost of this tranny, I sure hope it last longer than the last tranny that was in the car.:mad:



Active Member
Wow. That was an interesting read. You guys have a lot more patience with some people than I could ever muster, that's for sure:rolleyes: I quit reading Don's "teaching" posts about half-way through the thread... I just couldn't take it any longer.

BTW, blackplague built the converter that was in my turbo mustang a few years back. It had a 4r70, Lentech manual valve body, and one of Blackplague's converters. Street car that went 8s all day. This guy knows his stuff.


Active Member
I am glad to see this has been recycled again.There has been very little positive things going on around here lately.It is bizarre at times to see how much we evolve in in a years time.For the record Don is good people.


RIP Charlie!
[YOUTUBE][/YOUTUBE]YouTube - Turbo Encabulator

This holds 20,000 HP!!
I like this one better.:biggrin:

YouTube - Chrysler Turbo Encabulator

And if I did, you'd pay attention, wouldn't ya?

I'll take your word for it. I'm a rookie at metallurgy. I do have some references, but I really don't want to look it up. You guys burned me out.
I hope not Donnie. I've followed most of your threads and have found them very useful so I have to thank you for them.:cool:

I am glad to see this has been recycled again.There has been very little positive things going on around here lately.It is bizarre at times to see how much we evolve in in a years time.For the record Don is good people.
Yes he is and the tech provided on the board has allowed me to understand more about these cars. I may still be considered a neby by some but understanding the way the systems work is laid out very well and has been explained more than once by quite a few members.:smile:


Texas, Where are you from
This was posted a few pages back by Quickt. He states it is a trade secret.

I do not dual feed I remove the sleeve in the center support reposition and use the large side of the piston for 3rd clutch apply small side for reverse. Trans has very little overlap this way. Trade secret for those interested. Line 275psi.
I was wondering if this was something anyone would care to explain? If this mod is employed does one NEED the billet forward drum? I am attempting to assemble a 2004r for my ride and doing it on a budget. Thank you for any info you could provide.

Mike T

Well-Known Member
Another good one from the past. The alternative to dual feeding quoted in the post above is very interesting. I must have one of his older ones because it's dual feed.