Brisk spark plug

Or the DR10s maybe.... I had the DR12s recommended for my motor with GN1 heads but I am running gas with 9.0, 28 psi. I currently use Autolite 3922 and 3924....much cheaper.
 
I would start with a 10 then probably move to the 12

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I forgot to mention that the heads ( chambers & ports ) & pistons are fully High temp coated .
 
will these plugs work with my combo ?Brisk DR12S
Yes.
Until I discovered these DR10S,DR12S,and DR14S plugs,The only plug available that met all of the criteria (Gasket plug,Relatively cold,Non projected tip,Resistor,and Cut back ground strap) was the NGK BCR8ES. It's quite cold,but I often thought it would be nice if a colder version was available to try,but it was the only version they offered.
When we talk about a cold plug,we are talking about its ability to remove heat from the electrode. If we allow the electrode to become too hot,the air fuel mixture will ignite prematurely (pre ignition) and that is not good. Now the only time you need a plug that can keep the electrode cold is at WOT. You don't have a heat problem while cruising around on the street. If you cruise around the streets with a cold plug,you will notice that the idle will become erratic with some stumbling at a stop light. The reason for this is because the electrode becomes so cold that it doesn't burn enough deposits off of itself so the ignition starts to misfire. To clean the deposits you simply run to the next stoplight at WOT which creates enough heat to clean the electrode and you will notice a very smooth idle when you get to the next light. I've experienced this with the BCR8ES plugs,so I know that it is relatively cold.
Copper is a good conductor of electricity,but the silver used in the brisk's electrode is better,meaning less resistance. Because it has less resistance,it will produce a colder spark because the secondary voltage put out by the coil will be less because of the lower resistance.
Copper is a good conductor of heat,but silver is better so it has a greater ability to take heat away from the electrode.

The brisk DR12S is their equivalent to the NGK BCR8ES
When it comes to Brisk,14 is hot,12 is colder,and 10 is the coldest.
 
Last edited:
What are you guys gaping them at? e85, aluminum heads, 25psi ?
 
Why are you using these plugs?? Tried them in our Super stocker and found nothing and very $$$
 
Why are you using these plugs?? Tried them in our Super stocker and found nothing and very $$$
Not many choices for E85 , aluminum head , high compression , high boost motors , plus they have different heat ranges of the same plug .
 
Why are you using these plugs?? Tried them in our Super stocker and found nothing and very $$$
Because of our computers,we need a resistor plug because of electromagnetic interference. Because of our aluminum heads,we need a plug with more reach than the stock plug. Because of our aluminum heads,we need a gasketed plug. We can use a tapered seat plug,but it's not the ideal.When we make more power,we want a non-projected tip and a cut back ground strap. Lastly we need a colder plug as the power goes up.
The only plug with all of these features is the NGK BCR8ES. It's fairly cold but it would be nice to have a colder option. Brisk meats all of the aforementioned criteria plus they have an option that is colder than the NGK BCR8ES.

So,why would we pay the extra money for a brisk that offers no power gain?
Colder heat range option to protect against pre-ignition.
 
What about the Brisk DR08S . I got this Plug from Bison to use in my GN1 Stage 1 Stroker motor 9:1 Comp E85. I have not pu them in yet as I just put fresh NGK 8CR8ES so will try soon...
 
Brisk DR12S is the same heat range as the NGK BCR8ES . A Brisk DR08S is 2 steps colder .
Look at the heat range chart in post #8
 
Because of our computers,we need a resistor plug because of electromagnetic interference. Because of our aluminum heads,we need a plug with more reach than the stock plug. Because of our aluminum heads,we need a gasketed plug. We can use a tapered seat plug,but it's not the ideal.When we make more power,we want a non-projected tip and a cut back ground strap. Lastly we need a colder plug as the power goes up.
The only plug with all of these features is the NGK BCR8ES. It's fairly cold but it would be nice to have a colder option. Brisk meats all of the aforementioned criteria plus they have an option that is colder than the NGK BCR8ES.

So,why would we pay the extra money for a brisk that offers no power gain?
Colder heat range option to protect against pre-ignition.

Thanks for the informative info, I did not know this for this application. :cool: Would Autolite have anything in the Racing plugs?? Just a thought.
 
Thanks for the informative info, I did not know this for this application. :cool: Would Autolite have anything in the Racing plugs?? Just a thought.
Yes Autolite does make racing plugs with 3/4" reach and a gasket that do fit in our aluminum heads but don't have all the desirable/needed features that the Brisk plugs have as stated very well by Ttype6. The closest in a resistor plug would be as an example the AR3923 but it has a projected tip and the AR3933 has a recessed tip but is non resistor. The R is for a race plug and 2nd number from the right tells if it is a resistor or non resistor plug (even number is resistor and odd number non resistor). The last number on the right is the heat range. When you get above a certain performance level you need to find a favorite plug that works well for the street and a favorite for the strip and change them back and forth. The plug for the track may be one or two ranges colder and non projected while the street plug may be projected and hotter.....Maybe a Brisk for the track and maybe an Autolite or other brand for the street. At least that's the way I do it.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Im fouling DR12s with E85. Going to 14s. Anyone experience the same. Mostly a cruiser not a track car.
 
Im fouling DR12s with E85. Going to 14s. Anyone experience the same. Mostly a cruiser not a track car.
You can't just cruise around with cold plugs. You need to understand the purpose of a cold plug. The reason we use cold plugs is because they are very good at taking heat away from the electrode at WOT operation to prevent preignition. We don't want the electrode getting so hot that it ignites the air/fuel mixture before it is supposed to be ignited by the spark. Again, we only need this heat dissipation during WOT when the electrode can get too hot. We don't need the dissipation during normal un-spirited driving because we don't have a heat problem at that time. Because we don't have a heat issue during normal driving and we have a plug that is still removing heat, the electrode doesn't get hot enough to burn of deposits. If you simply heat up the plugs, the deposits will burn off. Now, how can we heat up the plugs? WOT. Go to WOT and your engine will idle nice and smooth when you get to the next stop light. You can also put in some hotter plug which will remove some of your wide open throttle protection. The shorter the duration of WOT activity, the less likely it is that you will experience preignition. This means that the time you will need a cold plug the most is during a full quarter mile run or longer.
 
Anyone driving around on the street with success on Brisk plugs? Or just racing? Concerned about fouling issues so Im looking at the DR14s.
 
I sent them an e mail with all my specifics asking which of their plugs might work best.

Someone from there asked me a few more specific questions and I immediately answered. That was 12/22/20.


To Subject Sent Size Categories
'info@briskusa.com' RE: Form submission from: More Info 12/22/2020 14 MB

Thank you for the fast response. It’s low 10’s car. I’m told I will go high 9’s with a real driver. J

Prolly right at 625-635 HP. I haven’t had this combo on the dyno yet, it only has 1500 miles on it and then, well, COVID……… Best pass on this new combo is 10.36 at 127on 22 lbs of boost. That was back in January of this year and I’ve not tracked it since. It’s also the only time I had this combo at the track, it was a no prep day and it was really shitty air, like 2750 air…….

I normally run 20lbs of boost on the street, 24 at the track. I’m not afraid to change plugs for one or the other. I am also interested in what gap you might want to see on a plug in these heads. These are race ported TA Aluminum heads.

It’s pretty much a street car, but it sees the track quite often.




.................Haven't heard shit from them since, guess us old Buick guys don't mean squat.

NGK's for my built engine it is going forward. At least NGK answered my questions.
 
Last edited:
Top